sixfiveyeti

Is that fresh powder coat?!? Did you put a new bearing in there?

If you want a Banshee to be "Good" at all of the above types of riding, your best bet is to keep it stock and spend some money on suspension and brakes. You can't have it all. That is why i have 2 dirtbikes and 2 quads. Stock Banshee is a jack of all trades master of none. It was never sold as a woods quad or mx, not a dune quad or hillclimber etc. It was sold a "Fun machine" and at that, it's probably the best. My advise: Decide what you want it to be "Great" at and build that quad. Unless your exceptionally skilled and in great physical shape, don't bother building an MXer out of it. I've built a play/trail quad out of mine. Stock size internals, Cool head, +2 degrees on the timing. Pro Design high flow single air filter and spigot, Snorkel removed from the airbox but left lid on with a few holes drilled. Trinity airbox adapter (crap. I had to port the hell out of it and the plastic of the airbox to get ride of the flat edge showing) 2 into 1 carb Trinity with PWK35 carb. I have no doubts that this will cost topend on a modified Banshee. I will say going to this from stock carbs cost me nothing but money. It did exactly what they advertise. It increased throttle response, added some much needed bottom end, and increased topend HP (butt dyno anyhow). I've jetted many bikes with PWK carbs, this was by far the most difficult to reign in. VERY pilot and needle sensitive. +2+1 a-arms and Works triple rate w/res shocks (there are much better out there now but these are still a great upgrade to stock) yfz450 front brakes with Streamline braided lines all around. 2014+ yfz450 pegs are a near bolt on and move the pegs back 1.5". (This was a huge change. Puts the pegs were they are placed on most modern quads plus I'm 6'5") Rear shock sprung and re-valved for my 250lbs I have 3 swingarms. -1.5" is my preference for all but hillclimbing. Stock works well everywhere (provided you move the pegs back) and +2 for the sand drag and hillclimb trips.

You know your sh*t!! Problem created by my cheap ass is solved, for now... I installed the new flywheel and still no spark. I decided to take the above advice and make sure the wire colors matched. They didn't! Red went to red, green went to green, but white/red went to white/green! I swapped them and BLAME, big blue spark. Apparently the pick-up is polarity sensitive. In light of all the smack talk about these china stators, I'm gonna hit this thread up when and if it fails. This may be the reason for so many of those "test good but can still be bad" comments i've read on other threads. Thanks for the help!

Good call on the wiring. I'll have to check that. I wish I had another stator laying around to try. All my buddies are thumpers. I have this beast and a KX250 woods bike. I'm the smoking section!

Alright. I retested and checked all grounds and continuity of the stator (all 3 phases), and the coil. I also put the old stator back in on the stock timing plate. Tested out the same with all but the cdi power phase in spec. My thoughts being I should have headlight flicker when kicking. I still don't. All three grounds are good. I also checked every other wire against the ground to look for a possible short. Nothing found. How sensitive are the flywheels? I have some slight denting on the inside were the screws and the stator hit in a few spots.

Caltric... Seems to be of good fit and finish and does test but...

The simplify was removing all the TORS plugs, wiring, and soldered red/black to black wire. On the old stator that came loose and ended my day, the red and green wires test out as an open circuit, infinite resistance. I hope I didn't buy a new POS stator. Thanks

That is not exactly an option right now. The stator that is installed is new and test out perfectly as far back as the CDI connector.

Sorry guys! Been a while since my last log in. I've found a frame so that is what I've been up to. I'm in Hillsborough NC. I've decided I need to give this - swingarm a run. I may still end up selling it though. I'm 6'5" so making things smaller is totally outside the norm for me. I think it may be too short in combination with the 2" reward pegs I have mounted.

Hey guys! Long story short. Running fine then mid turn she was gone. No lead up noise or anything. Came to a clunkety clunk clunk stop. I figured it was my crank signing off. Pulled the flywheel and the stator still completely intact was off. All three stupid phillips screws came out. The Red and green wires came up infinite during my resistance test so I bought a new stator. I also bought an adjustable timing plate and set it at +3. Air gap set to .017. No spark. Not only that but when I'm kicking, the headlights don't even show any signs of life. I've simplified my harness and triple checked my grounds and continuity. No Tors or any other switches, red/black wire is grounded, Black/white is not grounded, The flywheel did take a little heat during this event but actually still seems fine. It doesn't have any rattles and is magnetic still around the entire inside and the 2 on the outside. Can this possibly be my culprit? All my logic is pointing towards this being it given it ran fine before. I've just never had a bad flywheel before. My second thought is maybe the CDI got short circuited when the stator came into contact with the flywheel? The red and green wires are what supply the juice to the CDI correct? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for an A-arm frame. I'm in North Carolina. I have a -2" swingarm I'll trade along with cash. Thanks

I haven't tried the EEK needle. I will be ordering one soon enough. I just happened to have the NFTH needle lying around from my 2005 KX250. I believe the needle is allowing me to have the nice fat 0 to 1/2 throttle while staying on the smaller side for main jets. This is my first Banshee and I just put it together from about 3 storage totes a few weeks ago. Guy I bought it from tore it down bought the 2 into 1 and coolhead and never got back around to putting it together.

I'm pretty stoked with my findings today fiddling with jetting. And thought I'd post. Stock Bore x Stroke, forged pistons (not sure if ported), CoolHead with 22cc, Trinity 2 into 1 Keihin PWK 35, Airbox adapter and Pro Flow air filter spigot. Lid on (with snorkel removed) a few 1/4" holes drilled, Fatty pipes and power cores out back. 600ft above sea level 60 degrees F 48 Pilot (52 when in the 30's outside) NFTH needle 3rd clip 170 main 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. So I had been happy running with this jetting with a straight taper DDK needle 3rd clip but noticed that no matter what clip I put the needle at, I wasn't satisfied with the 1/4 through 1/2 throttle range. Mid range to top wasn't right either if I got the bottom close to where it needed to be. I decided what the hell, Let me throw in one of these KX or KTM needles I have. I thought for sure that I would feel bad spots in the throttle range but knew it had a slightly richer L1 area. Surprisingly this needle is the best I've tried yet. My power comes sooner in the rpm range and runs right out to the top without a hicup. Throttle response is super crisp and it's really brought my low mid power to life. Top end still rips the same as always.

Bog like: crackle pop pop or bog like you are hitting the kill switch. With that high of main I'd say your rich bogging. Get worse when it's hot? I have stock bore and stroke, wiseco pistons, coolhead with 22cc, and Fatty pipes. Trinity 2 into 1 Pwk 35mm. 600 ft above sea level, 60 degrees F. The above info is what you will need to provide if you expect to get accurate jetting advise I have: 48 Pilot (50 when in the 30's outside) 04 KX250 needle middle clip 170 main always. 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw