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try em and see. in the meen time put em up for sale and have arlen do a new set. maybe he has some premade that just need mounting brackets welded on

if arlen spent any amount of time making the 24mill pipes specificly for that engine, they wont even be close for a 4mill. everything about them would be all wrong. im quit sure he would tell you this. cobbling them on with a 'reducer' flange isn't something he would recommend either.

most people only know of Lincoln and miller but theres plenty of other manufacturers out there. this is a few of them. mostly European stuff http://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/tig-welder-103640.html

claude that material probly isn't common for this large of bearing so its probly expensive and needs special made. these charts show polyamide66 which appears to be a nylon and is common for bearings does great in methanol or any type of gas http://mossrubber.com/pdfs/Chem_Res.pdfhttp://www.professionalplastics.com/professionalplastics/ChemicalResistanceChartofPlastics.pdf

theres three common cage materials for roller bearings. brass, steel and polyamide. im pretty sure polyamide offers a bit less weight and friction than brass or steel. the only thing im unsure of is the long term ability to resist any deterioration from methanol. short term it seems to do fine

what cage is it? one piece steel cage works good im sure. polyamide is highly reliable and the type i use

why do you want these specific bearings

everlast is china but alot of people buy them and say they work fine but theres some that have problems also. i looked into them but decided to spend more money and get a different machine

im sure theyre pretty good but what are you doing with it and how much adjustability do you need or plan to need down the road ? small odd jobs once in a while im sure it would do good. larger more frequent jobs and im not so sure. does it have water cooler capabilities ? could probly dload the user manual from lincolns site and see what your getting into

never melted a hole myself but read a few things about preignition which is the phenomina that melts the hole. handful of events could of triggered the preignition. pinpointing it might be difficult since we know almost nothing of his engine. could of been to lean possibly. maybe a bad chamber design. who know what the comp ratio was. alof of people use +4 spark lead but maybe it was just a bit to much for the setup he had. said the oring failed, was that before or after shit went down hill. were the pipes old and full of carbon. what spark plug. you can see theres a lot of scenraios to sort through. im wondering if the other piston was near failure also or still looked brandnew. this might help decide what direction to look

do you have photo of piston and plug ? im not so sure your problem had anything to do with being lean

why bother. could get some drivlines by the time you do all that sleeving nonsense

like a toggle switch or something? seems like madmax has one to turn on the supercharger lol

192-196 is not nearly a wide enough range. 180-190 would probly be better. manually operating it would never work well on a atv. manual sliding pipes like boats use wouldnt work well either. theres no way you could pull a bunch of levers back and forth, at the right time, while operating the throttle and clutch, while trying yo turn and jump

if you didnt need functioning exh valves then it might not be to complicated. other wise youll have to find the best way to operate the valve. with a CAD model im sure claude could do it easy

i would think the cylinders are far to wide and stud pattern a mile off but maybe im wrong. what would be cool is if someone had claude make some all new cases for a project like this. although im more biased toward the new ktm cylinders lol

nothing against you personally but I don't see how that could go unnoticed. theres a handful of easy simple things the customer should check himself before running the engine. squish gap, wall clearance and ring gap are the main ones that can cause failure right away. comp ratio isn't a bad thing to figure out either. all easy peasy things that everyone should know how to check

i bet what happened is the same thing that happens with case studs. the disimilar metals cause some kind of corrosion and bond together

seems fishy https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/snd/5888395838.html

tricked we would be fools to assume the windows were placed willy nilly. im convinced yamaha had a pretty clear understanding of the inlet cycle and placed the windows accordingly. other very smart people ive talked to also fully agree with yamahas window location. some believe the window should be full open at bdc but plenty of experts disagree

yamaha wasnt completely stupid. they must have known when inflow started and the windows coincide with that

ever wonder why the piston windows are half covered at bdc

if its not a mixmatch of parts then i dont know. having the exh floor lower doesnt make sense from any perspective that im aware of

was it +4 cylinders with standard crank or something ? other wise im not sure why the piston would be above the exh floor. what ever the reason it doesnt seem logical to me

I think blowit was mainly referring to the transfers when he spoke of lowering the floor to match the piston top. lowering the exh floor isn't something I do but maybe he has his own ideas. even if you did lower the exh floor it wouldn't cause a hole when the pistons at tdc since the standard oem/513 piston has long skirts. now other engines you can run into that problem, like some Hondas