Motooutcastxxx

Oh no dude don't get me wrong I know exactly what you're saying, but if one were so inclined to say something like, "fuck it I'm not going to change the seal," and I'm sure those people exist, you don't in fact have to loosen that nut. I thought about mentioning the seal, I guess I should have instead of keeping it short and to the point my bad, I should've known better.

Ummm.. No shit. He didn't ask about replacing the seal, just if he had to loosen the nut to swap cases, replacing seals is fairly common knowledge. The question is, if you have the cases cracked open why wouldn't you replace the seals? It's just some cheap insurance.

No, you don't need to loosen it at all if you're just swapping cases..

I personally would scrap the oversize radiator idea and the cool head.. I would definitely go with the Hi Flo impeller though and either run this http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=392 or one of the other heads that doesn't require a stud change. If you already have the cool head I believe 22cc would be the stock domes but I can't remember exactly, I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong. I would also scrap the boost bottle before it rips the intake boots and causes more problems, just run the stock crossover tube.

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You can use the code labeled 'direct link'...

Just head over to your local shop most stock the blue stuff, well at least mine does but if they don't they can get it, you might pay $5 and no shipping charge. It's going to run you $5 max which I believe might have something to do with the bashing...

Like I said check often, the best deals go real quick, you could also start a thread in the 'wanted' section.

Definitely making sense now... I would still probably just rebuild the carbs you have (much cheaper) but if you decide to go bigger cruise the 'for sale' section as often as you can there's always great deals to be had, you just have to check often.

Not trying to be a dick here... but which is it bored or ported because your first sentence of your original post, along with ^^ "big port job", doesn't really make any sense? They're 2 completely different mods. If it's ported I might consider bigger carbs but just bored I'd stick with stock carbs and just buy a rebuild kit, pull them apart and clean the shit out of them.

3k just buy this then.. no doubt it's worth every penny. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152471&st=0

Take your pic, you'll get all kinds of answers. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=153186 I personally will run it at varying speeds up to 1/2 throttle or so for the first 15 minutes on the initial start up/ride and then just let it cool completely, after that you're good to go. But like the thread says as long as everything is put together right as soon as it's up to operating temps you're all set, I've done it this way too with no problems on 2 and 4 strokes. Really just depends how bad I'm itching to ride...

Honestly, you might want to plan on spending a bit more than $300 but if you're on a real tight budget I would pull the cylinders to see what you have to work with before anything. I sent my cylinders to Herr Jugs Racing and Poolman sent his to F.A.S.T. but I've read thread after thread on here and pretty much all the sponsors are top notch, you can't go wrong with any of them. I'm not sure where you're located so who knows maybe you even have a decent shop (or maybe a sponsor) that's fairly local. I would definitely keep in mind what Overdose said also... http://www.bansheehq.com/yz-banshee-specs-sponsors.html

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Yeah what they said. ^^^ but any reputable shop will hone/bore the cylinders and match up a set of pistons, all though it'll probably cost you an arm and a leg.... possibly a testicle. Check out one of the site sponsors maybe, they offer some decent deals for full top end kits but you would need to send them your cylinders. Here's the link to the service manual, always good to have. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150327

I was always told as a rule of thumb, and I'm not sure how accurate it is but, anything under 100 psi and it's time for a top end, 80 is definitely not good. Pull the cylinders off and have them mic'd, hone or bore, then find a top end kit. If you need a service manual there's one on here somewhere you can download.

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What Picklez said... best option.

A pound will be more than enough for the cases and jugs, I'm not really sure how much you would need to do a complete frame since I usually take mine to a professional. A little bit of powder goes a fairly long way though so I wouldn't think it would take much more than a pound, if that.

You should be fine without, I personally wouldn't bother. A lot of times they'll let you know or it'll say on the jar of powder if a clear coat is necessary, but I suppose that also probably depends where you get the powder. Being that it's 'super durable' wet black I definitely wouldn't throw any over that, I'd be afraid it might dull it a bit... Then again there's all sorts of different clear powder for all sorts of different situations.

For some reason that doesn't surprise me. I haven't had any major problems but there have been a few little things that have given me the 'stay away' vibe. Haven't really been PC'ing too much lately, winter in the northeast and I too am pretty freakin' lazy so I've been searching for a new vendor on occasion. I might try Powder By the Pound next... we'll see.

The chrome still looks just like in the pics I believe, they've just been sitting on the shelf since I did them about 6 months ago though. If you get the right clear coat it'll help to keep the chrome looking pretty good for a while, they just didn't have any in stock at the time so I tried the super high gloss... Again.. prep is everything, when it looks like the part is ready to coat and it is clean, clean, clean I usually spray it down with All Prep or something similar and let it sit for 15 minutes or so (sometimes I wipe it off sometimes I don't), and then throw it in the oven at 350-400 for another 15-20 minutes. Usually a blast of compressed air even after that, then I apply the powder once it's cooled just a little bit. http://www.columbiacoatings.com/Allprep_p/ap.htm

Yeah it definitely took a little while to prep, and it still wasn't perfect, I still had a long way to go in the learning process at that point. The bodies of the carbs were done in powder chrome, and not that it matters but the tops and bowls were done in matte black with a top coat of blue flake clear. If you take your time with the prep process and make sure every spec of dust, dirt, and grease is removed, or better yet start with a brand new set of carbs, you will be more than happy with the end result. A couple more pics, I mean they are fucked up no doubt but if I were to throw them on most people would think they looked halfway decent, unless they powder coat themselves. I have 2 other sets of carbs, probably do it again just not the powder chrome. http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/DSCF0987.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/DSCF0990.jpg With my carbs I actually made a HUGE mistake so there's 3 coats on there. Was advised to throw a clear coat on in order for the chrome to keep it's luster so I bought some super high gloss clear, bad idea too say the least, it wasn't the one they recommended. It completely dulled the chrome and made it look like there was a plastic coating over it, which in a sense there is but the end result was very bizarre looking. Kind of reminded me of my Italian grandparents' furniture back in the day with the plastic covers on all of it. So I ended up throwing another coat of chrome over it and called it a day. ...And agreed PREP IS ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING.

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I did a test run on some old stock carbs, came out half way decent, they were one of the first things I ever powder coated actually so definitely far from perfect. I don't plan on using them anymore but I'm sure they'd work fine. http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg516/motooutcastxxx/DSCF0986.jpg