ginger

for 100 bucks you can get fasts clutch which has HD springs, and some special fibers that hold up better. i have one, holds up great, there are guys with high hp shees running them.

buy FAST's clutch and never need one again.

i just used the steel wood without any moisture. and it worked fine.

i dont have either, i do have the kindle fire, and i like that a lot. its like a middle of the road, not apple, not droid.

i have LRD pipes. i think the procircuts will come in lower than the LRD.

nah, im 4 mil but stock cylinder.

im running LRD pipes on my rig, and its set up for the same style of riding your doing.

i vote 916's or PT mids

the DMCs are a great low-mid pipe that dont fall off on the top end. if you do mixed riding i would look at them, paul turner mids, t-5's. bang for the buck porting and timing are great mods.

shit, i tried to cheap out buying a shee, its been almost 2 years, i have well over 2k in parts, and i still have only ridden it maybe 5 hours. its been appart the past year to have everything straightened out. i should be riding it in less then 2 weeks though finally.

or use the temp. freese plugs in the exhaust ports

most american racer stuff is 10"

isnt one way to trick the jetting a little is air box lid on, vs air box lid off?

it has a round slide. most aftermarkets done they normally have a d slide or flat slide

stock carbs? if so, throw them out get some 28 pwk's easier to tune

32:1 is fine, thats the factory suggested amount, and on the safe side, a lot of guys run 40:1 most also run a br8es unless on alcohol or some other major factor. does the bike idle when just sitting still or do you need to give it gas to keep it running?

if you have it appart just but the mull billet impeller, and gear as well as a new bearing and seal. good insurance imo

They should be the same though the years. only major changes to the suspension was the j arm to a arm conversion.

it also depends on your riding style, if your on the trails stick with PC's if your dune of drag where you need top end then shearers

ebonics = ebony+phonics racist language lol

got one for 70 bucks on ebay, fit perfect.

Also forgot to tell you those reeds are boysen twin stage. Personally i think they are garbage, the 2 of them never seal up right. You can get v force reeds here pretty cheap. I would send the cylinders or to someone like FAST, Wildcard, ect. who ever is doing your crank normally does porting. and ask them what they think of the porting before going too far. and JSYK, between buying mine and rebuilding im gonna have like 6k in mine and most of the parts i got used.

Everything sounds good, just some suggestions, if you have the bottom end appart, see if the crank is welded. if not send it out to be trued and welded, you will thank me later. If there is no problems with the ignition, then use it, aftermarket ignitions normally have terrible reliablity, and are not a good bang for the buck, most guys here will suggest a stock ignition setup. Call up FAST or go to www.farmandsandtoys.com he has everything you would need. and that porting looks like a dune or mild drag to me, not 100% though.

realize that if you plan on riding on some trails, your going to want a more mid range motor. below is what i would do if i were you Rear Swing Arm (+2) - Stock Length, unless your trails are wide, if jumping most people go shorter. I would get a wheelman, Stellar, or JL engineering one. And make sure you go round house carrier, fuck the stock setup Front A Arms (and bushings?) - +2+1 roll design a arms. Handlebars - flex bars are awesome, but expensive, whatever your heart desires Levers - ASV are most popular, but again doesnt matter Cables - just replacements. just figure out your carb setup first Clutch/Basket - hinson or mattoon, if you want to upgrade Front/Rear sprocket - i kept stock for my trail riding Plastics front/rear - stocks or fullbore Intake (and rubbers for the carbs, these were GLUED together!) - depends on carbs, billet or good stocks Carb (kits and/or mods for stock carbs) - i would rock pwk 28's 30's or 33's to try to keep some bottom end to the bike Engine, bottom end - ported to cylinders, 4 mil hot rods crank, a FAST clutch, billet impeller and gear. Engine, top end - MX/trail port from FAST, Wildcard, or any sponsor on the site. Exhaust (Rebuild silencers?) - i would run either PT mids, T5's, Pro circuts, DMC 916's, LRD adjustables. in reality, the best thing to spend money on is shocks, no point in power if you cant handle it, or get it to the ground.

yep, best fix for the situation