sstaton1983

A lot of the guys on hear are hard ass's but for the most part know their shit. Of coarse some dont.

I would keep an eye on the plugs if you don't have a leak down tester. I have never seen an air leak that didn't cause other symptoms like a lean plug reading or driveability problems.

Read the plugs and see if they are burning the same. Maybe have another look at your reeds. I have seen piston skirt failure cause a high rev but not necessarily run away with no spark.

Yep, trying to stay pump gas. I'm running 145 psi with 4 deg. Timing.

I checked the plating when I first got the bike. I pulled the reed cages and looked around before I ran it. It looked ok even Though t he guy was pouring straight gas in and then chain saw oil right in the tank. I guess I'll prolly go bigger carbs and maybe change the exhaust. Trying to hit height 80s maybe 90 on pump gas.

he said 145 in both sides. I agree on leak down test.

If the slides are not sticking or installed wrong I would deff be looking for a lean condition causing the run away.

The bike is suppose to be a 421 cub, 34 tm mikunies and cpi sb sf inframes. I know for sure it is a cub top end and ill check the crank when i tear it down. Im about to split the cases to cut the trans and beef up the clutch with a lock out and pancake bearing and inspect everything else. im wondering if i should have the cylinder ported or just go bigger on the carbs and get some shears. kicking compression is 145 psi on 22cc domes.The bike was not tuned very well and was rich, while correcting the jetting I swapped out the emulsion tubes and needles also. The bike runs great right now, but with the stock basket its a ticking time bomb. So is it worth the extra for a drag port assuming its stock casting? I ride sand mostly and sand drag alot at white field.

I have always used atf in all my banshees with no premature clutch wear.

Maybe your slides are in backwards. check to see if the cut outs are facing the rear of the carbs.

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/mcy/4043034892.html

Keep the stock carbs.You can up the cc's by lengthining the stroke of the crank and also by using a big bore cylinder. Boring your stock sleeve will never up the cc's enough to make a diff.

You need to adjust the port timing,or go cheap and run the spacer.

Apparently People don't want a yfz either.

some nice bikes cheap right now. Im down the road from you,I live in Morris

now that's some real gearing. : )

I'll pull the sprocket back off tomorrow post pics and get the p/n off.

this is from a 84 rz 350.maybe im wrong. those splines look the same as a banshee.

I thought that too, but every rz front sprocket iv seen has splines that look like axle splines.

Around 120. Anything under 100 is considered a dead miss.

it will make it hard to start to start.

Thanks for the info. It does have the 5fp17 needles. I'm going to try it with a good needle and see how it runs before switching to the q0 tubes. I thing I'm around 800 ft here in oklahoma.

Anyone have any input?

Ford ATF always worked well for me.

I just recently traded for a 421 cub that has a 13 tooth sprocket.when I tried putting on a 14 from my other banshee the center hole was to small. The splines look the same just bigger then my other banshee's. I thought the output shaft sizes were all the same?