sstaton1983

no tors,its an 89 model.im pretty sure i swapped flywheels ill call him and ask he will remember all the crap iv done to it.lol

im working on a friends j arm banshee.it has no spark when you kick it over,it will only spark if you spin the motor over fast.when it starts it will stay running as long as you keep the rpms above 2 to 3k. he put on a new stator and it didnt make a difference.i swapped the coil off one of my banshees it didnt make a difference.i have split his harness open checked connections and grounds,i ohmed his harness from cdi to coil,and kill switch wires to cdi.my next guess would be a cdi(my cdi box's are newer and defferent colored wires)thats the onley thing i havnt tried.would a cdi cause no spark at low rpms?

i had to get cut domes with mine using 795s,but i didnt use a spacer plate.

so the oil plugs them up i guess?

why not a banshee? nothing makes it any different then any other 2 stroke race motor.if it works on two stroke sleds then it should work on a banshee.

change port timings for the longer stroke.you will need a diff. piston like a 795 series when using a longer rod like a 115

deff. a tweeker build.

i made a big jump in horse power,and my trans didnt like it at all.i ended up pulling it back apart inspected everything and cut my trans gears and modded my shift star.it was 100% better.

what are you planning on doing? dune,drag,mx,flat track.different mods for different types of riding. if your looking for more power porting is where you get the most for the money.bump up the compression advance the timing.the list goes on forever.

if your current crank is good just run it with some nice ported cylinders.the 4 mill crank will give you some better torque numbers.to run a 4 mill setup the way i do you will need to have the cylinders ported anyway.i would stay away from spacers,just something else that can leak.

maybe weak magnet,because my banshee flywheel seemed to have a stronger magnet.

banshee is a 89 with pwk 28s. using the kicker it will spark every once and a while with spark plugs removed.but you can push start it.once it starts it will not idle.i tried a coil and new stator and no diff. i have completely pulled the harness apart and checked it.i ohmed from the stator wires to cdi.orange coil wire to cdi and checked grounds. could the cdi cause weak spark? the bike is a friend of mine's and the harness was butchered i spent about 3 hours soldering and putting on shrink boot.

i cant tell what size the carbs are.but more than likely 34s.the cylinders look un touched.in my personal opinion i would not run 34s on a stock motor but those would be good to have when you go bigger.

my wifes raptor vibrates like crazy,im doing it to hers tonight.

maybe your vent is plugged,try removing the gas cap.

i know it had me kind of puzzled.

im running a 4 mill passion port with 170psi compression,cpi pipes with pod filters and still on stock carbs.unless you are gonna go for all out drag racing where all your power is on top end you will not need bigger carbs. especially 38s with those fmfs.

thanks for all the help...... i went up to 360s on the mains and it mostly cleared up. im gonna try 370s tomorrow and move the needles one clip up. OH and with all the views on this thread not one person is gonna give any advice? nice

i just finished putting together my 4 mill with passion port.i have cpi pipes with no airbox,+4 advance.i have about an hour and a half break in time on it,anyways i started running 3/4 to full throttle and the bike doesnt rev out until i shift to 6th.when i hit 6th it really wakes up.my mains are 350 and pilots are 25,im at around 700ft elevation.does this seem close?

i just finished putting together my 4 mill with passion port.i have cpi pipes with no airbox,+4 advance.i have about an hour and a half break in time on it,anyways i started running 3/4 to full throttle and the bike doesnt rev out until i shift to 6th.when i hit 6th it really wakes up.my mains are 350 and pilots are 25,im at around 700ft elevation.does this seem close?

i run av gas.

the pancake bearing goes on the center clutch adjustment,and keeps the clutch push rod from welding its self to the ball bearing. they are a very good upgrade for around 40 bucks.

i thought mine ran smooth until i started fine tuning the carbs,i jetted up to 350 mains with no airbox,t4s,and shaved head,going up on the mains really helped mine.

if they are stock you could maybe get them.i had basically the same setup and got smoked buy a 700 raptor with duel barkers and programmer. oh,and get rid of the boost bottle.they will crack your intake and cause a vacuum leak.

if your talking power,pipes should be first on the list.