sprinklerman

Being that its rotating mass,i bet it makes a bigger difference than a stock skid just sitting there along for the ride though.

Ive got one for sale. 35.00 shipped in USA. Use them on all my motors. All i need to know is what intake size you are running.

Just a side note for future DIY porting. You need to aim that boost port much steeper. Unfortunately , the bottom of it has already bee cut too low. Something you can change next time.

Gonna be any base gaskets?

I just saw that Mattoon head. Id like to try one. That said, Id go Noss over PD any day.

Looking for a GOOD set of 14 paddle SLS extremes. Thanks

You asked for opinions,so take this for what its worth,but id find something else to buy from FAST for 100.00 before spending 100.00 on case matching. Put it toward some of his domes or something.

Lapping the flywheel involves buying some valve lapping compound (think extra gritty toothpaste for metal) which gently grinds both surfaces true to each other as you turn them. Spread the compound on the mating surfaces then turn until you feel it really mate good. Setting pick up coil gap involves adjusting the little black pick up coil in relation to the flywheel magnets (check it with both magnets) .015-.017" with a feeler guage between the pickup coil and flywheel magnet.

Also dont forget the easy stuff. New,well lubed cable, and an ASV lever.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that for a great majority of the builds out there,that the Time/Area of the intakes (with the bridge intact) is sufficient for the engine package. So there's really no reason to cut it out.

Probably.^^ I Know the generic K&Ns i tried were less flexible right out of the box, and the material just felt "cheaper". The neck area that is. The filter media also seemed less consistent and seemed harder to clean the old oil out of. But maybe i just got a bad set (not from FAST,but generic ones none the less) For me, it just means more peace of mind for me to have a Genuine K&N VS a knock-off Generic ( taiwan?? )

I guess I'm the only guy that didn't like the generic K&Ns . I don't like the rubber they use (K&N is more flexible and grips the carb better) or the filter element.

swingarm roller sleeve.. junk it and that sorry design. Get a TM, Modquad,or UPP.

Id be interested in experimenting with these. I have a spare 4mm LR bottom-end laying around. $ 250.00 without intake ??

Thats get'n it for sure. I see you have a lightweight jockey on there too! haha

BHQ doesn't charge for punctuation. So if you would like some help,please take a little time/effort to compose a readable description of what you need help with,,then members here can put forth a little effort to help you get up and running.

And been a member since 2006,

LOL, i was going to post that as soon as i saw that pic... beat me to it!

^^^ This. Do this or be out more money.

Hey man. I would 1st find out WHY that basket went. Its kinda rare that the fingers would just snap off. Ive ran stock baskets on pretty hot 4mm stock cyls without problems. Yea they might groove over time,but fingers snapping off sounds like something else is up. Check the play in everything related to that clutch before shelling out $$$$ on a new basket only to overlook what caused it.

I like more stroke for my riding, but my experience with big bores is limited..and they might have not been tuned too well. My riding= dunes/sand drag.

He's talking heim CASTER adjustment. NOT the ball joints. LSR and Leager has a superior caster (at least easier)design IMO.

If you do find a Serval cyl,don't bore it. Double check,but i think to even hone one,you have to have a special hone.

Id start by maybe thinking about his favorite color? Or maybe there was a certain style of riding he preferred ?

I would get them ported,,,or a Serval if you have to have aftermarket cyls.