Thack82

I'm running the Forward Power sports +2 or +1+1 rear axle, and I like it, I've only had it on the Banshee for about a month but so far so good. I also ran there +2 aluminum rear spacers for about a year when I was running my stock axle and wheel set up and I had great luck out of them as well. The quality is great, the only thing I'm not real crazy about is the gold finish (I believe it's Zinc coated like most grade- 8 hardware). If you do decide to purchase the FORWARDPOWERSPORT'S Axle go through the www.forwardpowersports.com web site. Although it can be bought through eBay for the same amount of money, the web site offers free shipping. I do see that the Dura Blue axle also has a 6 month warranty vs NO warranty (that I can find) on the Forward Power Sports Axle. Dura Blue also offers a Eliminator Axle, and a X-33 Axle that are supposedly a lot stronger but the price jumps up as well. I talked to Dura-Blue and some of the other Performance Axle Manufacturers when I decided to upgrade my axle and I couldn't justify the cost here is the info off both websites: http://www.durablue.com DURA BLUE +1+1 HEAVY DUTY AXLE (1987-2006). Heavy Duty Axle This axle is a recreational level axle that is twice the strength of the stock axle, with a over all width of 41.7 inches. Other sizes are also avalable. It's a cost effective choice when reliability is a prime concern. The Heavy Duty axle is designed for twice the fun and activity as your stock axle. The Heavy Duty axle has a six month warranty for bending and breaking. (see WARRANTY for details) This axle comes with a long lasting zinc finish. All Durablue axles come ready for a complete install. You will not have to buy any additional parts! Parts supplied with your axle may vary. See pictures below for details. ITEM NUMBER:20-1142 PRICE = $360.00 Plus Shipping. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ http://www.forwardpowersports.com Axle Heat Treated Steel 2" Oversize - YFZ350 (All Years) Part Number: ASKU #: AT-03764-2 2" OVERSIZE REPLACEMENT AXLE Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee from Forward Powersports This axle is brand new and is made from heat treated steel. It's approximately twice as strong as the stock axle, and is much less expensive. It has a total length of 41.7" and will fit the following models: Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee 1987 - 2006 Made from heat treated steel Approximately twice as strong as the stock axle Accepts all the stock parts Total length of 41.7" Fits Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee 1987 - 2006 Price: $129.95 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Okay, after looking at what entailed in modding the shift star I don't think I'll be doing that until I have the motor apart some time. This is the Shift lever I'm using now: Yamaha Banshee 350 EZ Pull clutch lever RED Gripper Brand new EZ Pull shorty clutch lever assembly with RED gripper. Brand NEW item. Will fit all sport ATV's that have there parking brake assembly removed and saftey wires removed. Comes complete as shown. EASY PULL CLUTCH PERCH ASSSEMBLY, 325% less effort, offers 3 different settings, first setting makes it harder to pull for some "slipper" clutches, the second setting is a "stock, same effort pull", and the third cable setting offers the "easy" pull. Installs in just a few minutes. • Universal application fitment and "adjust-on-the-fly" style perch. • Forged alloy construction for increased durability with a rubber boot to keep out dirt. • Bearing in pivot provides smooth lever feel and wear protection. Don't let the Item description fool you. This lever does make the clutch feel more responsive, and it does have enough adjustments to make it more comfortable VS the stock lever and perch but it doesn't aid in the pull factor at all if your using a Heavy Duty Clutch/Springs. I soak everything that supposed to be lubed (like the brake and clutch cables) in Z-MAX Engine Treatment that $20 quart of oil that penetrates medal and take a syringe and squirt Royal Purple 50W in the cable sleeve quit a bit so I don't think my cable causing the stiffness. I started believing in that Z-MAX after I did the T.O.R.S. Delete. I took a Dremel Tool and cleaned the slides and polished them with Turtle Wax Fine Polishing Compound and Eagle 1 wadding Polish. After I got the carbs but back together the throttle would stick in cold weather I tried oiling them several times and it would fix it for a while then it would hang again. So I tried a light weight synthetic Grease and it made it worse. I thought I would give it one more try so I bought ta bottle of Z-MAX Engine Treatment filled up a small pan and heated it up on the stove and dropped my carburetor slides in it. I let them set in the scaling Z-MAX for about 45 minutes and cut the stove off and let them set over night in it. After I reinstalled them I never had a problem. I'm ordering the Streamline Hydrolic Clutch set ups for mine Friday. I'll let you you know how it turns out. Please waitImage not available

I bought a +1+1 Forged Axle from FORWARD POWERSPORT'S for $129.00 Free Shipping. I like it, and the quality is great! They make them in the stock size as well. The only thing I'm not real fond of is the Zink "gold" coating that on it. I think it's a great axle for the money. Has any one else used these axles? BANSHEE YFZ350 AXLE NEW 2 INCH OVERSIZE 2" OVERSIZE REPLACEMENT AXLE Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee from Forward Powersports This axle is brand new and is made from heat treated steel. It's approximately twice as strong as the stock axle, and is much less expensive. It has a total length of 41.7" and will fit the following models: Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee 1987 - 2006

Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at those, I'm going to buy one this week. I read a post on here from a member that said the Hydraulic Clutch's were delayed and caused the rider to slip the clutch when they shift. I wonder if theres anything to that? I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the shift star too. I hope these mods will take care of the problem.

They make them for several different riding styles, the only complaint I have is the stiffness of the pull. I'm going to fix this buy ordering a Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Kit. I think this will take care of the problem. YAMAHA BANSHEE DUNE/TRAIL RIDING HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT! FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!! YAMAHA BANSHEE ALL YEARS. This kit is designed for Banshees that make 75-95+ H.P. and don't use a lock-up clutch (EXAMPLE: 4 MIL CUB cylinders etc,etc). Basically, all after market cylinder kits that make a lot of power or heavily ported stock cylinders. This kit is different than our economy kit because of the stiffer springs and the full size steel plates. The only difference between this kit and our drag only kit is the spring stiffness. We wanted to offer a kit strictly for high H.P. Banshees that dune and trail ride.

I was referring to the Nitrogen Gas Reservoirs.

Thank you guys for all your input, and not riding me to hard over my horse power over estimation. I'll be contacting you here pretty soon, I'll need port work thats set up for trail riding and XC racing. While you have my jugs I think it would be a good idea if I went ahead and had you re-bore the cylinders and sleeve them. Dose that sound like a good Idea? I would hate to break something internal and screw up my jugs that had good port work. I don't even know if thats something people do to Banshee's but its pretty popular in the Diesel Performance World. I also wanted to ask you about the external of the jugs. I have everything polished except the jugs them selves. Do you do that? I guess this is the part thats going to break me up, what kind of $ figures are we talking about for an aggressive trail port job, Re-boring and sleeveing the cylinders (if possible), and polishing the outside of the jug's?

Thanks for the reply, the clutch is still holding up great. I wish it had a little softer pull though it would be fine in any other application but mine. If I run a two and a half hour XC race my hand is going to be hurting. I have a after market perch and clutch lever made by MSR-HP. I bought it with hopes of a softer pull, it has 4 different adjustments which made the responsiveness feel a little better but it didn't help with the pull at all. Is there any way of getting a softer pull except swapping the springs? I thought maybe the after market Perch's had some sort of gear set up that worked similar to a pulley system that might help out with the problem is there such a thing?

My intentions were good. I wrote on this thread for one simple reason. I wanted to let the other Banshee owners know you could fix the bad geometry of the YFZ Suspension swap with a set of after market adjustable a arms, and the out come is good IMO. I searched the internet for countless hours back in August and September looking for some one who had attempted the YFZR suspension swap and I didn't see any threads on this forum or any of the others, not to say there wasn't but I didn't see any. As far as this challenge a bunch of you are wanting to do with my Suspension vs Your Suspension is it really worth it. I mean what are you guys going to do? Buy a Banshee and build a custom upgraded suspension, and drive to Kentucky just to prove a point? Who's going to judge the better performing suspension? Different people like different set ups so theres a chance they might like like my so called Cobbled up set up better. You all took it the wrong way when I said you couldn't get a better riding or performing suspension. I made that statement based on the amount of money I have tied up, the appearance, and the improvement over the stock Banshee Suspension. I have about $1,000 dollars tied up in my suspension. Full Flight +3+1 a arms/tie rods. 2009 YFZR shocks, spindles, hubs, steering stem, and front brakes. All Ball's Upgraded Bearings Races and seals on all four hubs, and carrier assembly. Forward Power Sports +1+1 Forged Rear Axle. Don't get me wrong if you guys weren't being ass holes I would love to ride, and compare bikes. Theres no reason to act like a Jack Ass and smart off. A civil response, question, suggestion, or asking me to clarify something I said would have been fine. I'm on here to learn and try to contribute. These other guys are not jumping on you for running YFZ Shocks and saying you like them, or calling your bike a cobbled up failure.

Yea being an ass hole is soooooo cool!!! Why are you guys even commenting on this thread, MIKENICK's not running any YFZ Components, AssWhore's running the YFZ Shocks with the stock a arms, and MattSCESC Profile says he doesn't even have a Banshee. Mattscesc who ask for your advice and opinion? It wasn't me, and I don't see any post from any other members asking you what you think about me or the stuff I posted. I didn't start this! Did you read through the thread, or skip to the last page and jump on the band wagon? Instead of asking me a question, or asking me to clarify something, or even correcting correcting me on a statement I made that was incarcerate I get a reply like this. MikeNick If you built it to run XC then why the fuck would you get +3+1 a arm kit..You couldn't get anywhere with that. FAIL and another FAIL to you and the creator of this post for talkin about how great your cobbled front ends are. Does a comment like that make people take you seriously, and keep people from jumping down you throat? If so Fuck you; you don't even have a Banshee, and if you do it's junk! Your on here trying to make a buck peddling your over priced over rated performance parts! IMO!!! I would think you guys would want new members to exchange information and Idea's with, so why be a ass hole and start shit with the new members? Different people like different set up's, and mod's. But we all have on thing in common, we like Banshee's. I don't like every set up I see on BansheeHQ, and I see a lot of post that people are unclear in, have horrible grammar, miss spelled words, and dumb questions, but I don't see any reason to deliberately start shit with them and make negative comments about them, there builds, or there mods. I'm a member of the Corvette Z06 Forum, and the Chevrolet/GMC Duramax forum and I've been a member of both them for over five years, and we don't operate that way. I wouldn't make A negative smart ass comment about a new members Corvette just because he's new. You three and the others like you are keeping this forum from being successful to its full potential, and holing back people who are helping others out with problems by answering questions, and sharing information.

I've got a complete set of DG BAJA Series Skid Plates on my Banshee and there great Skids. They fit nice and tight, the cup the frame, light weight, and everything flush underneath so you don't get snagged on anything. When I decided I want to build a Banshee that would dominate the trails and Hare Scrambles I had a buddy of mine contact a guy he was acquainted with than ran XC Race professionally. That guy told him to armor the bike up as much as possible so I put the following accessories on my Banshee: DG BAJA Series Belly Skid Plate. DG BAJA Series Rear Swing arm Skid Plate. DG Frame Guards (Front and Side). Qualex +3 Custom a arm Skids. DG Rear Bumper. DG Six Pack Rack. DG Fat Boy Series Nerf Bars. Maier Disc Guard. Qualex Forged Steel YFZ-350 Replica Front Bumper. In addition to the Qualex Front Bumper I also Have a Polished Aluminum JAW'S Bumper I swap in and out. I'm happy with all DG'S Products. Qualex is a machine shop That I have do custom work for Item's I can't buy like the Factory style front bumper made out of forged steel, and +3 a arm skids for my Full Flight a arms.

What was the highest grade you completed in school? I'm guessing you dropped out mid to late (7th or 8th grade) middle school. Your referring to this statement: My Banshee doesn't set any wider in the front than a YFZ-450X (A bike built for Hare Scrambles), with the YFZ Shocks and the added ground clearance it only sets 2 inches wider. Do to the fact that your a retard and can't comprehend the meaning of this simple sentence, I will break it down and try to be more clear. My banshee is NOT any wider in the front than the new (2010-2011) YFZ-450X that Yamaha manufactures and markets towards ATV riders that run Hare Scrambles, or simply trail ride. My Banshee with the new suspension set up sets about two "2" inches wider on both the left and right side for a total of four "4" inches VS my Banshee in it's stock form (meaning how wide the front end was when it rolled off the show room floor) I hope this helps you out.

I'm sorry then, I apologize. I'm new, and I get a lot of good information from this site. I'm only telling people what I did to fix my problems, and I feel like I'm being attacked. I know I'm not right about everything (for example the Steering Stabilizer Box) But I still feel like a lot of good information can be obtained from my post. I agree with you and the others on this thread; the Complete YFZR suspension won't work without frame modification, and the 06 and later YFZ Conversions not for everyone. I already had the new YFZR components shocks, spindles, hubs, steering stem, brakes. I went ahead and ordered the Full Fight (For YFZ shocks) because I had come too, I was at the end of the line. I either had to cut the frame, or cut the a arms. I had learned my lesson quick with the a arms and I wasn't about to cut my frame up. When the Full Flight a arms came in I was able to adjust them and make the updated 450R parts work. I'm running the longer 2009 YFZR Shocks, so my Banshee only sets about 4-4.5 inches "total" wider then it did in its stock form. What I did gain was ground clearance actually a little more than I wanted. I ended up swapping my 21X7-10 front tires out for a set of 20X6-10 fronts, so that took care of a inch there. I didn't get the tape measure out and measure before and after but I'd say my Banshee sets 1-1.5 inches higher in the front vs my Banshee in it's stock form. I'm going to post some pictures of my Banshee next week as soon as I get the new graphic kits are done. I have interchangeable front Plastic. I can either run my new Maier "Raptor" style front or my new Maier OEM style front end. I need the graphic kits to fade the red fronts into the Black rears. I know better than post a picture of a Banshee on this forum with the "Raptor" style front end. The HQ members would roast me over a open flame. After I get good pictures of my Banshee on here along with a updated Build sheet. I think it will answer a lot of questions. I apologize again, you have none of the three negative attributes I listed in my previous post, your response surprised me, please take a look at my pictures next week, and let me know how you think my project Banshee came out.

My Banshee doesn't set any wider in the front than a YFZ-450X (A bike built for Hare Scrambles), with the YFZ Shocks and the added ground clearance it only sets 2 inches wider. I would run circles around you in a Hare Scramble! Your suspension set up isn't as good as my "Cobbled Front End" set up. You don't even have gas shocks. Why don't you cut everyone a break and keep your mouth shut.

We have two completely different set ups, your suspensions set up for MX Racing mine is set up for XC. If you can put together a suspension that works better than mine spending the same amount of money I invested in my set up I would like to see it.

The YFZR is a lot wider, and the frame is narrower. I'm not trying to mislead any one. I'm still fairly new to BansheeHQ. I bought my Banshee last year. It was the second quad I've owned (First quad being a Blaster back in 1999). I posted my YFZ Conversion Fix on this forum in hopes of keeping other fellow Banshee riders from making the mistakes I did. Please don't rake me over the coals and try to discredit me like I'm a 13 year old making up lies and exaggerating things. It seems like every time I post information I have obtained building my Banshee over the past year someone has a negative reply. I got 95% of my build information from BansheeHQ reading the results of parts and set up's people have tried. This is a great forum with great information, all I'm trying to do is give back in hopes of helping out. Your right I found out later that a steering stabilizer will not aid in the steering stiffness. I was under the assumption that a steering stabilizer Box like GPR Steering Stabilizer and Damper would help out the steering stiffness. I posted that on the forum before I had done the proper research. I posted what I've learned while I while attempting the later model YFZR Front suspension. As far as I know I'm the only one thats attempted the new front end swap. If you stand back and look at the new YFZR and you've read the 06 and bellow YFZ Suspension swap forum on BansheeHQ you think "I can take a case of beer and a couple of nights in the garage and make this work"! But it can't be done without serious frame modification and I wanted to let the other people that might be thinking about doing it know it doesn't work.... With the R front suspension any way..... I think I posted the width and wheel base out come on another post because I don't see it, but it ends up +7-2 Making the Banshee set a total of 14 inches wider than it sets stock and the geometry is hideous. The YFZR and the Banshee frame are shaped completely different. The only way you could possibly make it work would require major frame modifications. The newer YFZ's frame is shaped like a V this makes the lower a arms longer than the top a arms. The bottom line is the a arms off the YFZR wont work. I ended up putting all the 2009 YFZR Suspension upgrades on my Banshee and used Full Flights a arms for the YFZ Conversion Kit, and everything worked out great IMO. This is the kit I bought. The 12 point adjustable Chromoly Heims allow the proper adjustments to be made in order to run the updated upgraded YFZR Shocks, Spindles, Brakes, Hubs, and steering stem and keep perfect geometry along with the ball joints setting at the proper angle. This Full Flight kit runs about $360.00 plus $25.00 Shipping on eBay. FULLFLIGHT CAN ONLY BE ACHEIVED BY LIVING DANGEROUSLY. PHONE PAYMENTS 270-236-3535 THESE NEW A-ARMS ARE DESIGNED TO USE WITH STOCK OEM YFZ450 SHOCKS. THESE ARE BRAND NEW FULLFLIGHT RACING A-ARMS WITH 12 POINT MOUNTED CHROMOLY HEIM JOINTS, TIE RODS, AND TIE ROD ENDS. YOU WILL RECEIVE A COMPLETE SET OF +3+1 FULLY ADJUSTABLE FOR A 1990 UP BANSHEE. (ONLY 1/2 A SET IS SHOWN) . NO SPINDLE REAMING. TIG WELDED FOR STRENGTH AND DURABILITY. THEY COME WITH OUR NEW STYLE, 2010 CHROMOLY HEIM JOINTS, THAT HAVE NO BOLTS IN THE SPINDLE INSERT PINS(KING PINS), THIS MEANS NO BOLTS TO FALL OUT, OR TO BE THREADLOCKED, LIKE OTHER A-ARM COMPANIES USE . SILVER VEIN POWDER COATING. BE SURE TO EMAIL US YOUR COLOR AFTER YOUR PURCHASE AND WE WILL CONFIRM, IT BACK TO YOU BY EMAIL. THE SET INCLUDES- 2 UPPER AND 2 LOWER A-ARMS, 2 TIE RODS AND A COMPLETE SET OF HARDWARE, EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO INSTALL YOUR NEW SET OF FULLFLIGHT A-ARMS. CONSTRUCTED USING DOM- .120 WALL TUBING. RETAIL IS $599.99. THE A-ARMS ARE POWDER COATED AND COME WITH A LIFETIME WARRANTY. IF YOU BEND THEM, THEY WILL BE REPLACED. THEY WORK REALLY WELL FOR THAT FRAME THAT HAS BEEN BENT OR TWEEKED A BIT FROM AN ACCIDENT, ALLOWING YOU TO COMPENSATE FOR THE ERRORS AND MISALIGNMENT OF THE FRAME BY GIVING YOU 12 POINTS TO WORK WITH. YOUR ITEM WILL BE SHIPPED WITHIN 3-4 BUSINESS DAYS FROM THE TIME YOUR PAYMENT IS RECEIVED. PAYMENT MUST BE RECEIVED WITHIN 7 DAYS FROM THE TIME THE ITEM IS PURCHASED. ACCEPTABLE PAYMENTS: PAYPAL, CREDIT, DEBIT CARD PAYMENTS SHIPPING WILL BE $22.00 FOR THE LOWER 48 STATES. ALASKA AND HAWAII MUST CONTACT US FOR SHIPPING CHARGES. INTERNATIONAL SALES, PLEASE EMAIL US FOR SHIPPING CHARGES. PHONE PAYMENTS 270-236-3535 TAKE FLIGHT WITH FULLFLIGHT

I'll let you guys get a good laugh out of this, When I shopped for my Banshee last spring I wouldn't even look at one that had been modded up any more than a set of pipes/air filter, or maybe a set of wheels and tires. I finally found a 2004 about an hour away from my house that was completely stock except for a Barnett Dirt Digger Clutch and Clutch Basket. I ended up paying $2,000 dollars for it. I figured a Banshee in it's stock form with a exhaust would be the best set up for trail riding, and endurance racing... Hell, 97% of all the Sport Quads (all of them newer 4 strokes) that race in The Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles are in near stock form. Some of them have a complete exhaust, but most just have a slip on silencer, air filter (In Stock Air Box), jet kit or EFI Programmer, and thats it, So I figured a Banshee would be the same. I found out quick about my 3rd or 4th time out when I started riding with some of the newer 400's, 450's, and 700's the Banshee needed upgrading quick. Before the day was over I broke a ring! I was almost at the top of a 50ft vertical hill when I didn't have enough power with the stock 14/42 gearing and I bogged. I revved it up and popped the clutch 4-5 times and I finally got on top of the hill with everyone else, I cut it off to take a smoke break and let the engine cool down because it was steaming and puking coolant every where. When we got ready to take off my kick starter wouldn't budge. Over the past few months I've Built a completely different Quad. I upgraded all the internals with forged parts, upgraded the complete cooling system (radiator, lines,water pump impeller, water pump housing, inline coolers, and cool head), I upgraded the entire suspension front and rear, and just about everything on the bike has been modded, upgraded or changed, except the rear swing arm and frame. I would have been much better off buying a modded Banshee, The Banshee in it's stock form is a very poor performing machine IMO. I would have been way better off buying a modded Banshee. Even if the set up wasn't to my liking I could have changed it and at least the parts I took off would be worth some money. Learn from my mistake don't invest more money in a stock machine thinking you will have a better platform to start modding because thats defiantly not the case...... with Banshee's any way!

Thanks for your help, I'll be getting in touch with that sponsor soon, I would like to send my Jugs off in June about a week before I go on Vacation. I have OCD with this Banshee, and I can't stand to see it broke apart for any long period of time. That way when I get back three weeks later maybe I will have them back. Nothing sucks worse than your buddy's calling you up wanting to ride and your bikes broke down, and your waiting on parts.

I agree 100% I used all the YFZ-450R Parts because I attempted using 2009 450R a arms. I have alot of machine shops that do me a lot of favors free of charge so I thought I could make it work perfect. After a month of spending every spare minute trying to get the set up perfect and buying one 450r part at a time thinking that would fix it I came to the end of the road. I had 3 options 1. Give up 2.Have the a arms cut and completely reworked 3. Mod the Banshee frame. I ended up choosing 1, I gave up. I talked to the guy at Full Flight and he said he had a ton of calls from potential customers that attempted the YFZ-450R front suspension swap and didn't like the end result. The problem that most of these guys had was they had sold or gotten rid of there stock Banshee parts in order to buy the 450 components. So his team of guys engineered a+3+1 a arm and tie rod kit with 12 point adjustable Chromoly Heims that would correct the problems converting the Banshee suspension over to the 450R suspension. As some one who did this I can tell you why people try it. The new YFZ rides great compared to the Banshee, if you stand back and look at the YFZ you would think you could take a six pack of bud and a couple of days and have that suspension setting under your Banshee. Then you look at the price comparison between the YFZ parts and aftermarket Banshee suspension parts. I paid: $69.00 plus $20 shipping for my 2009 YFZ-450R Shocks. $61.00 plus $30 shipping for my 2009 YFZ-450R a arms and tie rods. $40.00 plus $12 shipping for the 2009 YFZ-450R Spindles. $35.00 No shipping for the 2008 YFZ-450R Hubs. $60.00 $14 shipping for the YFZ-450R steering stem and flag. For a grand total of $341.00 The cheapest set of good after market a arms and tie rods are $380, and if you want a good set of shocks with mounted gas resignators like ELKA's Stage III for instance your looking $800-$1000 dollars. So the YFZ-450 suspension conversion looks real incising when you compare the money you'll be spending. I also had a Yamaha Tech at a local dealership tell me the YFZ-450R shocks were made by SHOWA and they were as good as any after market shock on the market. I copied and pasted this right off the YFZ Sales Information: New long-travel front shocks offer fully adjustable Showa shocks with 9.8 inches of travel and separate adjusters for preload, rebound and compression damping, The shocks also have a Kashima coating on the body. This coating decreases shock temperature and friction, helping to improve shock life. The new wide arc lower A-arms are 2.65 inches wider per side. The wide arc design, according to Yamaha, increases ground clearance. So it looks like he was telling the truth. The problem with the YFZ-450 Suspension is not the Shocks; there great it's the horrible geometry the a arms have on the Banshee frame, and they end up coming out a +6-2 set up which is way to wide. If you want a great front suspension that performs as good as any other front suspension on the market IMOA. Buy the YFZ-450R Shocks, Spindles, Hubs, and steering stem, by doing this you can also upgrade to the YFZ-450R Brakes and Brake lines that are 10X better than the Banshee's. It all comes down to this you can have one bad ass front suspension for about $700 bucks. In most cases you can't buy a good pair of after market shocks for much less than that. I am truly happy with my front suspension set up and I haven't seen another Banshee out riding that has a suspension that performs any better than this set up. You guys can take this for what it's worth, again all of this is my own opinion based on my experience with this set up. Jim

I just read over the response I just posted and it sounds offal, it sounds like I'm being a ass hole. I had to get up and do somethings several times while I was righting it and it came off like I'm smarting off to you and in no way am I doing that. After I read it I was going to delete it, but I couldn't figure out how. Thank you for giving me your advice and helping me out I appreciate it very much. I just wanted to make sure you read the part on my build sheet where I upgraded my internal parts. If I had it to do all over again I probably would have went with a 4mil Stroker set up, it wouldn't have cost me that much more.

In addition to the "bolt ons" I've added I also have had all the internals upgraded and replaced with high quality replacement parts (Forged Hot Rods Crank & Rods, Wiseco Ultra-Lite Forged Aluminum Pistons and Rings, and had it bored .020) I don't know where you get off saying I have only bolt on parts? The parts I listed above are the only components inside the engine. I didn't buy the biggest of everything, but it's all matched and tuned perfect I put my Banshee together like this because I built my Banshee for trail riding and Endurance racing. Over everything else I wanted my bike reliable, I've been around a buddy that built a racing quad a few years back and it was useless for everything except Drag Racing. That being said I am interested in porting the engine at some point in time how many horse power do you expect I will gain by that?

Your Probably right:notworthy:.... Theres things that are not on that list, its a couple of months old and I need to get it updated and get pictures on here. That being said I'm sure your right, I'm just guesstimating. I came up with that number comparing my Banshee to a guy I raced in TN that had his dynoed 82hp. He had a Trinity Motor, it was one of the smaller cc Cheetah's, and I was comparing the upgraded parts he had vs the ones I had. I beat him about 50ft then he came around me pretty hard. I'm not one to exaggerate, you guys know a lot more than I do. Other than that Banshee I've beat every other quad that I've race by a pretty considerable amount. I built my Banshee to Race in the Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles, and even though I didn't buy the biggest baddest parts everything is matched and works good together, and no small details were overlooked. Over all my goal is to have a Banshee that looks Bad as, rides great, thats fast, but I wanted reliability over everything else. Does porting make that big of a difference? What kind of port work would you guys recommend, and who would you guys have do it? I talked to Trinity's about it when I bought my Stage IV Cool Head and they wanted almost $500 for polishing the jugs and doing a port and polish. If I decide to have it professionally ported I'm going to have them Re-Bore the jugs and sleeve the cylinders, I wish I had had that done in the first place, but Lees's Suzuki and Yamaha in Harrodsburg Kentucky wouldn't do those things, So I ordered all new Nice Forged internals off the internet, and had Robert (Banshee Racing building and riding veteran) do all the machine work and set up. They claim he's the best in my area and set up. Is port work something I can do myself or have a tool and die shop do? I'm meticulous when it comes to my Banshee or my Z06 Corvette, Camaro, Hummer, and Duramax or any other motorized machine. So if I had a set of detailed directions and the tools I wouldn't be afraid to try it with a little supervision from someone who knew what they were doing. My dad is the Purchasing Manager at Link-Belt Construction Equipment so he has a lot of ties with machine shops as well as tool and die shops. Those guys have helped me out tremendously through out this build so far. Give me your opinions on this. Horse power isn't everything, I have out ran a lot of bike with a lot more horse power than I have simply because my suspension out performed theres. When I first bought my Banshee I was getting out run by a 400EX with a few modds in a rough hay field latter on that day we got out on the pavement and it wasn't even a close race, I beat him by 10 ATV lengths, I just couldn't hang onto the bike because it rode so rough. Any way you guys let me know what else you think I can do short of building a whole new motor and changing my complete set up to get the horse power I was previously estimated I had. Thanks, JCT

Thanks guys, how deep do you think this shock upgrade is going to get in my pockets? I've up-graded every thing on my Banshee. The only thing I haven't modified is the stock frame and the rear suspension (Swing arm and rear shock). If you guys have any questions about my front suspension set up feel free to ask me. I have my front suspension tuned in perfect. I can hit rocks as big as bowling balls at 60mph with out giving it a second thought. It jumps great and lands smooth, I couldn't be happier with that set up. The Full Flight a arms combined with all the other 2009 YFZ-450R suspension works great. It takes alot of fine tuning and time but its worth it. In order to make it work like it came out of the Yamaha Factory that way you haft to buy the a arms with 12 point adjustable Chromoly Heims. Theres just a couple of things I'm thinking about to make it all that much better. A steering stabilizer, and some way to get the seat or a seat like a YFZ-450 has, thats my biggest challenge, getting the center of gravity lower without giving up ground clearance. I would like to finish up the suspension with a light weight +2 rear swing arm equipped with some form of stiffer rear shock or rear shock upgrade. What do you guys think about doing that? I'm setting this bike up to race in The Kentucky Off road Hair Scrambles, and ride in the woods with my Brother on his built 1989 Honda TRX-250R. There are 68 Sport Quads on next year list and not only am I the only person Racing a Banshee; I'm the only two stroke. I'll get with MattSCESC and see what he has to say. Thanks Keep the Ideas coming. Jim

Guys I need some input on this. I bought My Banshee Last May with trail riding in mind, to my dismay I found the stock Banshee isn't to good for that. Nine moths later and every spare penny I could get and invest I''ve built a XC Banshee thats perfect for me. I've got the front done the guys at Full Flight set me up with +3+1 Silver Vain a arms for YFZ Shocks equipped with 12 point adjustable Chromoly Heims, to go along with my 2010 YFZ-450R shocks, spindles, hubs, brakes, brake lines, steering stem (and Flag). The ride and handling is unbelievable. If you closed your eyes and put ear plugs in you would think you were riding a 2010 YFZ-450R with a 75 horse power engine. Now I'm messing with the rear I'm replacing all the bearings with a ALL BALL'S Bearing kit, and adding a new Forged Forward Power-Sports +1+1 Rear Axle. What I need help with is the rear shock; its to soft, I'm 6'2" and I weigh 225 pounds and I don't like the way the bike squats, It wouldn't be so noticeable but the front end set a little higher than stock with the YFZ Shocks. I've got it tightened up all the way, and its still not enough. I just need a little more. Here are the two options I'm considering. 1. Do they make a piggy back shock for the rear? I would like to keep the rear shock if possible because it's silver and it matches my YFZ Shocks, and I don't want to spend a tone of money on an aftermarket shock. 2. Will a Raptor 660R shock work? My buddy has a Raptor and I sat on it and it felt perfect. I should be able to pick one of these up fairly cheap off eBay. Any input, Idea's, or comments would be a great help. As soon as my Graphic guy gets done with my graphics which should be any day now. I'm going to post pictures, and let you guys check it out. I've poured my hart and soul into this Banshee. Thanks, Jim

I agree with all of you 100%. It's a waste of an endangered species to take the Banshee motor off and replace it with some other brand or type of motor. I know alot of the Honda TRX 250R Guys put Honda Pilot 400cc Jugs and top ends on there bikes. I wonder if you could get by with the top end only vs the whole motor. You guys aren't as Bad as the Honda TRX 250R Forums, they will rag someones ass completely off the forum site for putting different motors on the old Legendary TRX-250R, Hell one guy modified new TRX-450R plastic and put it on his 250R and they told him he was a dumb ass for defacing the bike. My brother Has a like new 1989 TRX-250R with new OEM style Black Maier Plastic and a 1988 250R replica graphic graphic kit, and a mildly built (HotRods Crank, Wiesco Pistons, .020 Bore, Woods Port, Cool Head ) by FTZ Racing. When he put his bike together and I saw it it made me want to get Maier OEM Style plastic and a OEM style graphic Kit and just have my Raptor looking front to swap in and out on occasions.