Thack82

It sound like you had a good set up... Well you had to have had one bad Banshee to be finishing in the top 5 in "AA" Class. I run "C" Class and I know first hand how extreme the endurance races can be and the toll it takes on the bike as well as the rider.

I really do wish you would bring that piece of shit down to Kentucky, my Banshee would out perform yours in every aspect and in the woods it would just be a joke. If your running hare scrambles comfort and durability prevail over everything else.

Guys theres no doubt about it there cheap, but I think they look cool does anyone have any idea how much they cost? It would be cool if you could get a Yamaha 2 Stroke motor that would bolt up on it off something else, it would be real neat then. If you do the research all the Chines quads are not totally Junk. I researched them for two weeks before I bought my daughters and according to reviews and owner forums you wont to buy the Mini Quads made in China Not Taiwan. The two 50cc-1255cc that had the best reviews were the Tao-Tao Mini Eagle and the Mini Falcon. That being said the reviews listed the weak points on both machines. The 110cc Mini Eagle I ended up getting had the following weak points: Oil: The oil thats in the motor is for transportation and initial break in only. The oil should be changed and replaced with Synthetic 10W-40 immediately after break in procedures are performed. EGR Valve: The EGR Valve and tubing needs to be blocked off and tubing removed from Carburetor. If left in place it can cause engine to surge at idle. Tires: The stock tires are made for yard and driveway use only, they get very little traction on anything other than dry level ground and they will wear out in a very short amount of time if the quad is driven on any hard surface. Bolts and fasteners: 80% of problems encountered with the ATV accrued because nuts and bolts fell out. Alot of the nuts on the unit I bought were not much more than finger tight. Paint: The frame and under carriage paint will chip more easily than other more popular ATV's in the United States. The happens because the frame is Painted with a Heavy Duty Machinery Paint rather than a more durable powder coat being used. Carburetor: The quad has a 20mm Mikuni Clone Carburetor that has a solid non-removable cap and bowl other than a Idle Screw that adjust the slide in the neck there is no adjustments. No Air Screw, Fuel Screw, No jetting changes, No needle clip adjustment. In order to meat the United States EPA Emissions Laws the carburetor runs on lean side. In some cases weather and location the quad will not operate do to the lack of carburetor adjustment causing the engine to be fuel starved.The same day I ordered the quad I went ahead and got on eBay and bought stuff needed to fix the problem areas. I bought a Brand New FMF Power Core 4 Exhaust (Head Pipe and Silencer) for a Yamaha Raptor 80 for $65 Shipped, a Mikuni VM-26 26mm Performance Carburetor for $23.00 plus $9.99 shipping, a upgraded Mikuni Super Flow 26mm-28mm Intake for a Honda TRX-90 for $7.99 Plus $3.50 Shipping, a 26mm Foam UNI Hi-Flow Air filter for $10.00 Shipped, And I ordered a FMF Power Jet Kit for $35.00 Shipped. On the way home I stopped By Tractor Supply and Bought four new Hi-Run 6 inch tires for $19.99 each, a quart of Mobil 1 10W-40 for $6.99, $10.00 Worth of Metric Hardened Grade 8 steel Nylon Lock Nuts and bolts, and picked up a bottle of Heavy Duty Permatex Loc-Tight for $8.00. When the ATV arrived at my house two weeks later all the parts were in. I went ahead and broke the engine in using the method I got from a Local Yamaha Mechanic, Changed the oil (and filled the gas tank with a pre-mix 100-1 89 Octane Gasoline and Klotz Super Techno-Plate 2 stroke oil for added protection during break in), installed the Carburetor, Air Filter, and intake before I put the plastic on, and I jetted and tuned the carb (75 Main Jet, and 32.5 Pilot Jet), secured and loc-tited all the components as well as added the Nylon Lock Nuts where I thought they were needed, and Bolted the exhaust on. I went ahead and flipped the quad back on its Courtesy Rack and Traced the out-line of the frame, a arms, and rear swing arm onto a piece of card board and sent it with my old man to drop off at a friend of ours that own a machine shop. I had him "Qualex" make a set of light weight skid plates out of aluminum to protect the frame and I had the tires swapped out the next day at work. I couldn't find any fasteners to connect the skid plates to the frame that didn't look home made so I had to order the fasteners from DG and they came in about four days later. But it was worth the wait the quad looks bad ass and I would put it up against any of the name brands Youth Quads that are under 150cc's. She has rode the shit out of it, I'm guessing the quad has between 45 and 65 hours on it and other than changing the oil one time and me having to replace a a arm ball joint nut and lock pin that worked its way off (I over looked that one I guess?) I haven't had any problems what so ever. You wouldn't believe the places she has taken it and it has gone and the power that the Loncin 110cc engine has with a few bolt ons is awesome. I've researched the quad a little more since I bought it and I've ordered two more of the Mini Eagle Youth Sport Quads and purchased the upgrades to go on them for some friends of mine that wanted to get them for there kids for Christmas last year. The total price of the quad after its all said and done not including your labor is between $775.00 and $825.00 by the time its all said and done. But thats not that bad considering the Mini Eagle has a cloned Honda Engine thats identical to the Honda TRX-90 Engine, the Frame is a older Yamaha Motor 4 Clone Frame, and the Plastic looks very similar to the Raptor 80. I think I did pretty good if I had bought a Name Brand Youth Quad for my Daughter I would have wonted to at least wanted to put an exhaust, jet kit, and skid plates on it. So I think I did pretty good considering that a new Yamaha or Honda 50cc, 80cc, or 90cc Youth Sport Quad Retails for $2,200 $2,500. Honda TRX-90 Engine Loncin 110cc Engine

Hey guys check this Mini Chinese Banshee Clone out, I would like to get one of these for my little girl and find a performance chain saw header like the the guys in the Lumber Jack Competitions put on there chain saws, and buy some other performance stuff for it. I bought her a Tao-Tao Mini Eagle 110 Chinese Sport Quad for her last year for her birthday and bolted a Yamaha Raptor 80cc FMF Power Core 4 Full Exhaust, a 26mm Mikuni Carburetor, FMF Power Jet Kit (75 Main, 32.5 Pilot), Mikuni 26mm Super Flow Intake, UNI Filter, NGK Iridium Spark Plug, and a new set of tires on it and it runs and rides great! She follows us every where we go when she rides with us. I think the Chinese are finally getting it together. Mini ATV, Quad Bike 49CC Quad Yamaha Style (DR708) Product Description Engine 1. Type: 2-Stroke, Single cylinder, Air-cooled 2. Displacement: 49CC 3. Bore x Stroke (mm): 40x32 4. Compression Ratio: 10.0: 1 5. Drive system: Chain 6. Start system: Pull start 7. Ignition: CDI 8. Max Speed (mph): 33.5 9. Max Power KW(r/min): 1.52/6500 10. Max Torque N. M(r/min): 2.3/6000 Chassis 11. Suspension / Front & Rear: Spring shock absorber 12. Brake / Front & Rear: Double Disc/Single Disc 13. Tires / Front & Rear: 4.10-4 14. Rated load(kg): 50 Product Size 15. LxWxH (mm): 1040x680x690 16. Seat Height (mm): 420 17. Ground Clearance (mm): 70 18. Wheelbase (mm): 700 19. Fuel Capacity (L): 1 20. Wheel tread(F/R)(mm): 500/500 Packaging N. W. (kg): 28 G. W. (kg): 33 Carton size(mm): 990x580x520 Conveyance: Qty/20': 88PCS Qty/40': 239PCS More Product Features Trademark: Junbo Model NO.: DR708 Standard: CE Certification: CE Transmission System: Chain Drive Engine Type: 2 Stroke Structure: Multi-door Transmission Type: Manual Displacement: 50cc Company: Zhejiang Junbo Group Co., Ltd

Theres no doubt you know what your talking about, and you know more about the Banshee than I do. I'm sorry if my post came off like I was being a ass and knocking the advice that you were giving this guy. I'm a little defensive and I keep my guard up on here because some of the members of HQ have rail roaded me over my set up and things I've said that they have taken out of context and blown out of proportion. Your explanation of pre-detonation is dead on and in very good detail. I would say Definition but really your right its actually more of a condition than a word. I tried running straight 93 Octane one time after I built the motor and lowered the compression and I thought it felt like the throttle response was a little sluggish, but after talking to you I'm beginning to think I could have just had a little water in the gas and the fuel dryer thats in the Octane Additive might have been fixing what I thought was a low Octane problem. The next tank I run I'm not going to add any Octane Booster to it and try it again. I know what your talking about, back about 10 years ago when I was in high school me and three or four other guys had a Yamaha Blasters. We were all about the same weight, equal riders/drivers and we all had similar mods Pipes, Air Filter, Jet Kit. The other two guys might have had a few other mods FMF Reeds, and one of the blasters was punched .020. Anyway we all went to Little Sandy Drag way one Friday night for test and tune I had plain old 87 Pump gas and the Autolube feeding my bike Quick Silver TCW3 Out Board Oil (Thats all we ran back then because it was cheap and you could get a gallon of it at Wal-Mart for $18.00) The other two Blasters had the Autolube system deleted and had 50-1 mixed 110 Race Fuel and AMS oil. My Blaster ran the best time out of all of them I ran a 6.60-6.70 seconds in 300ft of sand pretty consistent. The next closest guy my buddy Chad ran mid and low 7's. The next time we hit the trails they told me that my bike would even run better with 110 Octane fuel so I put 3/4 of a tank of 110 in it and it ran like shit, after that I tried 93 Octane and that Blaster just didn't like it. It would run its best on Plane old 87 Octane with cheap ass quick Silver Oil mixed 32/1 or what ever that Autolube System mixed it at. I didn't do shit to that Blaster but ride it, rag it, fill up the Auto Lube tank with the cheapest 2 stroke oil I could find and run the cheapest gas and I never did any maintenance to it other than add new brakes and tighten the chain. I don't think I ever even changed the case oil the three years I owned it. Now I've got my Dream Bike the Banshee and I handle it with kid gloves. I only run Synthetic Lubricants (Crank Case Oil, 2 Stroke Oil, D.O.T. 4 Brake Fluid, Grease) Everything. I run a 32:1 mix of Klotz Super Techno-Plate with a 100:1 mix of Marval's Mystery Oil, and a $10 bottle of Octane Booster with every 5 gallons of 93 Octane Pump Gas. I just added it up and it cost me......... about $42 to mix 5 gallons of 2 stroke mix...Thats Crazy and I have to mess with it and tune on it quite a bit. I'm defiantly going to try a tank without booster. I've got a 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap, Twin In-line Coolers, Billet Water Pump and Housing, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head, and I run ATV Super Coolant and Water Wetter and my bike still gets warmer than I would like and I'm starting to think it might be do the the booster I'm running. My Brother has a Perfect 1989 TRX-250R Built almost dead on my Banshee (Crank, Piston, Cool Head/20cc Dome, NGK Iridium Spark Plug) and he has the stock Honda cooling system other than the Cool Head and I don't feel the heat rolling off his motor like I do mine? I'll get it a try and I'll let you know how it turns out.

I'm just giving him my opinion, and letting him know what works for me and my bike. I'm not trying to start a pissing match. My Banshee runs better with a little Octane booster. At my elevation 790ft above sea level Trinity recommends that no smaller than 21cc domes be used with straight pump gas 93 Octane. I figured they new what they were talking about given there experience and reputation. Some times that 10 point jump will make the difference between 93 and 94 octane running good and running great. My Banshee would probably run on a gas/oil mix of 75:1 but I wouldn't do that so why would I take the chance on the Octane? When I referred pre-detonation I was talking about the flash point of the fuel in the combustion chamber. As far as I can see pre-detonation is a real word heres the definition from the AMS Oil Web Site. Definition of Pre - Detonation (ABNORMAL COMBUSTION) Pre-Detonation / Pre-Ignition; is basically Abnormal Combustion. This is basically an uncontrolled explosion in the combustion chamber caused by any one or combination of more than one of the items listed above as restrictors of ignition timing. In normal combustion the spark ignites the compressed fuel/air mixture and a smooth burn travels through the combustion chamber and building combustion chamber pressure as it goes. This flame travels through the chamber by the time the crankshaft has moved about 15 to 30 degrees after top dead center (ATDC). In Abnormal combustion the air, something in the combustion chamber or even the whole chamber is too hot for the fuel or it is compressed too high which itself causes the temp to raise too high, causes the fuel to explode. This explosion produces extremely high temperature in a localized spot and causes a pressure spike so high and quick that it is like a hammer strike. This extremely high temp/pressure spike can cause extreme damage too. The weakest point in a chamber gives way first. This hammer like strike hits the top of the piston and attempts to go down between the piston and cylinder wall and hits the top ring. which slams down on the ring land below it, braking it down against the second ring. At the same time, the extreme localized heat starts to melt the aluminum piston. On true hemispherical engines (spark plug in the center of the chamber) The extreme heat can first weaken the piston closer to the center and the pressure spike can knock a hole in the center of the piston. In a more wedge shaped chamber (plug on the side of the chamber) the damage usually in done opposite the plug. Abnormal combustion damage is easy to ID. The underside of the piston crown is blackened, the ring land just below the top ring on the opposite side from the plug is broken in a downward pattern and the land above the top ring will be melted and burned away opposite the plug. There is also damage to the top rod bearing as the hammer effect usually beats out the rod bearing. As far as the handling characteristics are concerned, my Banshee handles fine in the woods maybe I will run into you some day and you will get to witness it. I am running 20X11-9 Tires on my Banshee, and the Chariot Billet Reed Cages make more power that V-3's with a set up like mine. I realize I made a mistake when I went back with a stock style Crank VS the 4mil Crank, but stock crank set up are still capable of putting down good power. I'm not trying to start a war here so please don't take anything I've said in this post the wrong way.

I've thought about porting quite a bit but I hate to give up my bottom end. Is it possible to port your Banshee with out giving up bottom end power? I know a Power Valve will will fix the problem, but with out a power Valve is it possible?

I went and put together a jet kit I ended up buying a 140, 145, 150, 155, 160, 165, 170, 180 I started out with the 160s and it was choking it so I tried the 140's and it seems to be okay. I might end up needing the 145's or 150's.

I just re-jetted and bolted on a set of 28mm PWK Keihin Carburetors. I have a quick question for you guys about the chock set up. Does Keihin make a Choke Kit that will allow you to choke both carburetors at once without pulling both knobs or is that something you just have to deal with if you run a dual Keihin set up?

Quick question..... What Keihin jets sizes are equivalent to the following Mikuni Jets? Main Jet: 340 Pilot Jet: #30 If you guys could answer this question It would help me out alot. I've got a general Idea from some of the BHQ Members on where to start my jetting on my new Carbs (Twin 28mm Keihins). They recommended I start with a 50 Pilot and a 155 Main. I hate to mess with the jetting I have, I used a Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit and the jetting is dead on. I think I can get closer to the exact jetting I need for my set up if I can find out what the Keihin equivalent Jets are to the Mikuni jets I have. I figured that I would have to step up one size bigger on both jets to make up for the increased fuel/air mix that I will be getting from the Keihins. You experts comment and help me out as soon as possible. My twin 28mm Keihins are supposed to be delivered by the end of the day today and I want to stop by Derby Cycle and put together a jet kit so I will have it and have it going before I get in the bed tonight. Thank You, Jim

Don't make the same mistake I did, go ahead and buy the 4mil stroker crank! Its worth the extra money, and it wont cost that much if any more to rebuild it with the 4 mil kit.

I can't believe your running 87 Octane Pump gas mixed 32:1 Klotz with a 20cc dome. Theres a sticker on the top of the tank that says run high octane un-leaded pre-mix only, and thats in stock form. I called Trinity before I bought my Stage IV Cool Head and they told me that 21cc Domes were the smallest Domes I could run on strictly 93 Octane. If I went to a 20cc dome or smaller I had to up the octane by adding octane booster, or mix 93 octane 50/50 with either Blue Aviation Fuel "100+ Octane, or Race fuel 110 Octane". Advancing your Timing 4° is going to factor in on this as well. I usually buy Klotz Octane Booster, or the little clear tear open ROCKET 2 STROKE OCTANE BOOST from Derby Cycle. The Rocket Octane Booster is great because its $1.99 per pouch and it treats 3-5 gallons of fuel VS the Klotz thats 160z and $11.99 per bottle. I've always herd in order to maximize and protect your motor you should try to match your octane to the engines compression ratio. I use the Octane Index and the Anti Knock Index "A.K.I." and R+M/2. Running low octane fuel in a high compression engine will cause the gas to ignite under compression prior to the spark plug igniting (pre-detonation) the result of that is added wear to your enginine internals. You should be fine with the Pro-Circuit Pipes there a good mid/low end pipe. From what I've read they should be close to the Paul Turners. For your engine set up I personally think you would get more power and driveability out of Chariot Billet Reed Cages, but V-3 are great Reeds/Cages Too. What Kind of 28mm Carburetors are you running? I see that you have also discovered that a low geared set up with low end mods especially pipes really restricts power. I run a 15/42 set up and 20" tires and I thought I was high geared for stock cylinders! With 22" Rear Tires, 15 tooth front sprocket and 40 tooth rear Sprocket you might hit 103mph if you have the power to turn the gearing and tires. With your mods you shouldn't be getting beat by a 450 Thumper in the river bottoms and wide open fields as high geared as you are you should be able to launch it about 3/4 throttle and be gone! If you are getting beat I'd say your gearing and the low octane fuel are play a big part.

In IMO gearing is going to be the key to beating the 450. I race a guy that is about 100lbs lighter than me that has a 07 TRX-450R with a HRC Kit and I struggled with him for a while. I 6' 2" and weigh 225, he's 5' 5" and weighs 127lbs. you need to concentrate on your strong points and his week points. Gearing........ 4 Strokes have a lot of bottom end that is good but it also is a weak link. They have to really have to get there hole shot down pat to keep the front end from pulling up. Banshees hole shot weakness tends to be getting the back tires to hook. If you have the low end power to pull a 15-16 front tooth front sprocket you can launch it hard off the line with very little wheel spin, your front end will pull up about 12-15 inches but it will drop right back down when you hit 2nd. This will make your power band long and strong. and make you Banshee hard to beat. You need a low end power set up in order to run the bigger front sprockets. This is my bolt on set up and it pulls 15/42 gearing great. I'm running a .020 Punch, Hot Rod's Forged Crank, and Wisesco Pro-Lite Forged Aluminum Pistons with NO port work. I built My Banshee to run Hare Scrambles. Twin Keihin 28mm Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers Boyesen Power Reeds Billet Reed Cages Billet Reed Cage Spacers Magnum Boost Bottle Ready High Flow Filter Outer Wears High Flow Lid/Snorkel Booty Trinity Stage IV Cool Head/20cc Domes NGK Iridium Spark Plugs Dynatec Ignition Coil Electrosport High Output Stator Accel 8.8mm Spark Plug Wires Mod Quad Billet Water pump Impeller In-Line Coolers 30% Bigger Radiator CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap RMStator Adjustable Timing Plate (+4°)

Like Akheathen said Boyesen Power reeds are great for adding torque. You can get a lot more out of them if you run Chariot Billet reed cages, and billet reed cage spacers the spacers allow you to adjust your power band a little (how soon it kicks in). Paul Turner mids are about the best Low end power Pipes you can get. Dropping a tooth in the front will help you lug around with the 4 pokes in the woods but don't get caught in a open field with a low end power set up and a low sprocket, your power band will hit hard but it will be extremely short and very hard to utilize. I'm putting 28mm Keihins on my Banshee to help out mid and top end power but thats where I felt like I could use a little more power and from the research I done that set up should have little to no affect on my bottom end. Woods/trail riding is hard on a clutch, depending on other power adders your planning on adding a Heavy Duty Clutch will eventually be needed. If your running a mild set up a Barnett Dirt Digger, Tusk HD Clutch kit will do the job. If your a little more on the wild side I would recommend Drive-Line's Trail/Track set up with (YFZ-1000 components), They also offer a economical clutch lock up that will fit in the stock clutch cover. This is the kit I ended up using on my Banshee with the addition of a Barnett Billet Clutch Basket. It has never even acted like it was going to slip, the only negative thing I can say about the Heavy Duty Drive-Line set up is the stiffness of the pull. I had to buy a Streamline Hydraulic Clutch Lever to get the pull stiffness down where you could ride long periods of time with out your arm becoming fatigued. The most important thing that you will need to upgrade if you building a woods Banshee is the cooling system. I would recommend a over sized radiator, performance radiator cap, billet water pump housing and impeller, inline coolers, and a aftermarket cool head. You will need to run ATV Engine Ice, or Red-Line ATV Super Coolant in the cooling system as well. I'm trying to come up with a electric fan set up that will pull air through he radiator as we speak to help aid the cooling of the engine on my Banshee.

Thank you, thats what I needed. "a starting point"

Okay, I bought a set of 28mm Keihin Flat Slides to take the place of my stock 26mm Mikuni's with T.O.R.S. Delete Kit and a Vito's Stage 3 Jet Kit (340 Mains and #30 Pilots). The mods I have on my bike are: .020 Bore, Hot Rod's Forged Crank, Wiseco Pro-Lite Forged Aluminum Pistons, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head/20cc Domes, Chariot Billet Reed Cages/Boyesen Power Reeds, Chariot Billet Reed Cage Spacers, Stock Air Box/Outerwear's Lid/Outerwear Snorkel Booty, Ready High Flow Filter, Magnum Boost Bottle, Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, Dynatec Ignition Coil, High Output Ricky Stator, RMStator Adjustable Timing Plate (+4°)Oversized Aluminum Radiator, CV-4 Cap, Mod-Quad Billet Water Impeller, TM-Design Works Billet water Pump Housing, Mod-Quad Billet Inline Coolers. I Mostly trail ride my Banshee, but I do run and Hare Scrambles and do the occasional Local Fair 300ft Dirt Drags. I know it will be a job to get my jetting right the first try so I'm going to go with what ever you guys recommend as a starting point and buy 3 smaller jets and 6 larger jets and tinker until I get it perfect. I'm sure you Keihin runners can probably get dead on, so please give me all your input on the jetting and trick for getting them tuned for perfection. Thank you all so much you have been a tremendous help.

Hey man I have the same question maybe you can help me. Right now I'm running the stock twin 26mm Mikuni Carburetors with the T.O.R.S. Delete Kit and a Vito's Stage III Jet Kit (340 Mains and #30 Pilots). I'm replacing them with a set of Keihin 28mm Carburetors. The mods I have on my bike are: .020 Bore, Hot Rod's Forged Crank, Wiseco Pro-Lite Forged Aluminum Pistons, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head/20cc Domes, Chariot Billet Reed Cages/Boyesen Power Reeds, Chariot Billet Reed Cage Spacers, Stock Air Box/Outerwear's Lid/Outerwear Snorkel Booty, Ready High Flow Filter, Magnum Boost Bottle, Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, Dynatec Ignition Coil, High Output Ricky Stator, RMStator Adjustable Timing Plate (+4°)Oversized Aluminum Radiator, CV-4 Cap, Mod-Quad Billet Water Impeller, TM-Design Works Billet water Pump Housing, Mod-Quad Billet Inline Coolers. I Mostly trail ride my Banshee, but I do run and Hare Scrambles and do pretty good. IMO my bike has the power and suspension set up to win. I built my motor for low-mid power every mod I put on the bike benefits the bottom end power range. at first I was running 13/42 gearing and it was awesome in to woods you could just about lug it around like a 4 stroke. But I would get smoked in a open field, I bet it wouldn't do 60mph top end, the power band was so strong but it was way to short. I ended up going with a 15/42 gearing set and that made my Banshee bad. Please get back with me and let me know what jetting is needed with the Keihin's. Thank you, JCT 1 1

I'm kinda in the same situation, I think I'm going to go with a set of 28mm Keihin Carbs on my Hare Scramble Banshee. I've researched the crap out of it and in my own opinion I think the twin 28mm Keihin set up will benefit our set ups and riding/racing style. I have a friend who competing against me trying to see who puts together the best trail Banshee and he's going with a big Trinity Single Carb. I guess I'll find out soon enough how it competes against a dual carb set up. I run the stock air box lid with a Outerwears lid upgrade with a foam Ready Filter and it works great for me. The 18" rears will be to small, if you put a aftermarket skid plat on the swing arm you will beat it to death. I Punched my motor .020 and sleeved the cylinders and put Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy Silencers on my Banshee along with Billet Chariot Reed Cages/Boyesen Power Reeds/Chariot Billet Reed Cage Spacers, Hot Rods Forged Crank, Wiseco Pro-Lite Forged Pistons, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head/20cc Domes, NGK Iridium Plugs, Magnum Boost Bottle, High Output Ricky Stator, Dynatec Ignition Coil on and in my motor to make sure it held up and performed in the Scrambles. If you plan on your bike holding together invest in some skid plates, and cooling mods. Good Luck, Jim Thacker

Thank you guys very much for all your input, Paul "one of the BHQ Sponsors" said I would be crazy not to get your guys opinion before deciding, and I agree your input has helped me out. Sleeper06 I agree that a one time fix would be the smartest way to go, but I'm afraid they might me a little big for my set up. I estimated my Horse Power around 60-65 one time and some of the HQ members said I was way off. I would be doing good to be pushing 50. I'm afraid 33mm Carbs might be to big form my set up. If I was going to go with 33mm Keihin Carbs wouldn't I be better off to jump 1mm and buy the Keihin 34mm PWK Air Strikers? I have a fellow HQ Member thats offering to sell me a set of Keihin 28mm Flat slides for $150.00 right now I think thats my best bet, what do you guys think? I've also had people tell me that the Banshee motor was designed to run Mikuni's and it will put out more power if I stick to Mikuni's Flat Slide set up. Is there any truth to that? I've narrowed it down to these choices. 28mm Keihin Flat Slide's 34mm Keihin Air Strikers (Only if you guys think they wont be to big for my set up) 28mm Mikuni Flat Slide's (Only if you guys agree that the Banshee is set up to run Mikuni Carb's and they will benefit my set up more than Keihin Carbs) Heres my Mod list again, its hard to read in my first post: .020 bore, Hot Rod's Crank, Wiseco Pro-Lite Pistons, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head/20cc Domes, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, Dynatec Ignition Coil, High Output Ricky Stator, Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers, Chariot Billet Reed Cages/Boyesen Power Reeds/Chariot Billet Reed Cage Spacers, Magnum Boost Bottle, Ready High Flow Filter, Outerwears High Flow Lid/Snorkel Booty, RMStator Adjustable Timing Plate (+4°), Oversized Aluminum Radiator/CV-4 Cap/Mod-Quad Billet H20 Impeller/ Mod-Quad Billet Inline Coolers. I'm sure theres a few things I'm forgetting but you get the point. You should be able to estimate the increased power from what I've listed. I have built the motor for Maximum low end Power so far. I don't know if this will be useful in any way but I'm running a Drive-Line Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch/Streamline Hydraulic Lever and slave cylinder, 15/42 Gearing, and the suspension has all been upgraded. Thanks agian guys, Jim Thacker

Guy's I need help choosing the right carburetor set up for my banshee. I want to do away with my stock carbs, I'm beginning to think there beyond fixing. My Banshee runs great but I'm tired of the stock carbs leaking gas I've put new rebuild kits in both of them and I still have one missing. I opened the leaking carb up and noticed there was a brass tube missing. I cut a Carb cleaner straw and put it in there where the brass tube was missing and it still leaks. That being said I want to go ahead and get a new set of performance Carburetors my brother put a 38mm Kiehin PWK Air Striker on his 1989 TRX -250R and it made a tremendous difference on his bike. I thought about going with a PWK Air Striker set up on my Banshee but the smallest size they make is a 34mm and I don't want to go that big. So I'm leaning towards a 28mm Mikuni TM Flat Slide Carburetor set up. I've been talking to Paul at PJ Motorsports about my different options. He suggested I post a Topic on HQ and get you input before deciding. So here it is what Carburetor setup do you guy suggest for my set up and riding style. I mostly trail ride, Endurance Race/Hare Scrambles, and 300ft sand drags at the near by county fairs. Just like everyone else I want the best throttle response, power, and over all reliability that I can get at the best price. I built my Banshee from stock so I know every mod that is in it. I am going to copy and past my build sheet bellow so you guys know what I've got so I can get them matched for my build and riding style. By the way even though I trail ride and race Hare Scrambles I don't want a 2 to 1 Carburetor set up. ----------------Engine------------- Bore: . .020<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacment<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Pistons: Wiseco Forged Pro-Lite<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Port Work: None as of now Aggressive Trail Port Is planned for a later time<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Plugs: NGKR BREADSIX Iridium Spark Plugs Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds in Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers <br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Boost Bottle: Magnum Billet Boost Bottle Carburetors: OEM 26mm Mikuni with Vito's Stage III Jet Kit (320 main jets and #30 Pilots)<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers<br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Air Intake: Ready High Flow Filter In OEM Air Box with Outerwear's High Flow Lid, and Snorkel Booty <br style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with polished combustion Chambers and 20cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Housing and Impeller, Dual Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap Lubricants Used: (Ounces/Gallon) Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) Klotz Octane Booster (1/1) Marel's Mystery Oil (2/1) 50oz Red-Line Super ATV Coolant, 12oz Prestone Dex-Cool, 12oz Red-Line Water Wetter, 16oz AMS Dominator Coolant Boost

Aftermarket a arms are a great upgrade. I put a set of Full Flight +3+1 a arms on my Banshee and I love the way it rides and handles now. I ended up going with the Full Flight a arms and all the 2010 YFZ-450R Components and I'm very pleased with the out come. I have been harassed by a few HQer's so much over it that I just about deleted my BHQ user account. My Specs ended up being almost dead on the 2010 YFZ-450R after I got everything installed, and other than the steering being slightly stiffer it rides and handles just like a YFZR. The comparison specs are on the photo bellow:

Sorry about the length of the post, I just wanted to make sure that you guys had all the information. I just copied and pasted my build sheet to the thread. I would like to buy a after market intake to go along with the Chariot Billet Reed Cages, and Billet Reed Cage Spacers. When I checked BHQ feed back on the reed cages some of the guys said you wouldn't get the full potential out of them unless you bought the intakes. I've just about bought every upgrade for the motor. If I had it to do all over again I would have put a Hot Rods 4mil Stroker crank and Stroker Pistons in it vs the Hot Rods Replacement Crank and Wiseco Pro-Lite Pistons. At the time I didn't really know to much about the Stroker kits. A 4mil Stroker with an Aggressive Trail Port and my bolt on's would have been bad ass, and I would have been putting out a lot more power. I'm going to buy a new set of Carbs regardless so I might as well buy a 28mm. I'm so sick of leaking out high dollar 50/50 93/100 Octane and high priced synthetic 2 stroke oil. I've took my carbs apart 2 or 3 times and I ended up replacing the floats and gaskets. When I re-jetted for my Outerwear's Pre-Filter I noticed that my left Carb was missing a little short brass tube that runs straight up and down, so I cut the end off a WD-40 spray straw and put it where the brass tube was missing. It didn't help or hurt anything they still leak. I have no clue what happened to the brass straw. The previous owner of my shee was a real dumb ass. Pretty much all they did with it was ride up and down a black top country road and do burn outs. I just about replaced or upgraded every part on the bike except the frame. About the third or fourth time I rode it I broke a ring. The mechanic at the shop I took it to said they hadn't been running a air filter, it needed a new top and bottom end, all new wheel and carrier bearings, and new sprockets/chain. From there I became obsessed and well here I am. As far as porting my Cylinders; with the mods I have will I gain a lot of power? After I get my port work done and I add new carbs and a aftermarket intake what kind of numbers do you think I'll be putting down? And last but not least other than the three things I listed above do you know of anything else I can add to my bike to get more power and performance? Thanks for taking the time to read this and answer my questions, I want my Banshee to be all it can be. Jim

Okay guys I'm thinking about buying a new set of Carburetors for my 2004 Yamaha Banshee. The stock Carbs I'm currently running leak, and I think a set of 28mm or 30mm Mikuni's would aid my set up quite a bit. I want to stick with Mikuni's because I'm comfortable working on them. I put a Vito's stage 3 Jet Kit and a Motion Pro T.O.R.S. Delete kit on them with no problems, and they seem to be easy to tune and simple. My brother has a 1989 Honda TRX-250R and he replaced his stock 34mm Keihin with a Keihin PWK 38mm Air Striker on his bike and it made a huge difference throughout the entire power band (Low/Mid/Top End). I Trail Ride, Run Hare Scrambles, and Drag Race (300ft) at the local County Fairs. Please take a look at my upgrades and give me your personal input on what Carb set up you would recommend for my Banshee and my riding type. Location Information: State: Kentucky Elevation: 238 meters (780 feet) above sea level 2004 Yamaha YFZ-350 Banshee Modifications and Specs: Engine: Bore: . .020 Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacment Pistons: Wiseco Forged Pro-Lite Port Work: None as of now "Aggressive Trail Port Is planned for mid June 2011 By Wild Cards Racing"1 Plugs: NGKR BREADSIX Iridium Spark Plugs Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds in Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers Boost Bottle: Magnum Billet Boost Bottle Carburetors: OEM 26mm Mikuni with Vito's Stage III Jet Kit (320 main jets and #30 Pilots) Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers Air Intake: Ready High Flow Filter In OEM Air Box with Outerwear's High Flow Lid, UNI push in intakes, and Snorkel Removed Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with 20cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Housing and Impeller, Dual Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers Lubricants and Additives Used: (Ounces/Gallon) Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) Klotz Octane Booster (1/1) Marel's Mystery Oil (2/1) Red-Line Super Cool ATV Coolant with Water Wetter, and AMS Dominator Coolant Boost. (25% mix Prestone/GM Dex-Cool) Transmission: Clutch: Drive Line Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch (Friction Plates and Steels out of a YZF-1000) Clutch Basket: Barnett Billet Clutch Basket Clutch Lever: Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Lever with Billet Slave Cylinder and Stainless Steel Braided Clear Plastic coated Line Shifter: Mod Quad Break Away Short Shifter Lubricants Used:<br style="font-weight: bold;"> Klotz Flex-Drive 30 Streamline Synthetic Mineral Oil Suspension: A Arms: Full Flight +3+1 Silver Vein A Arms (For YFZ-450 Shocks) With 12 Point Adjustable Chromoly Heim Joints Tie Rods: Full Flight + 3 Tie Rods with Tusk HD Tie Rod Ends Handle Bars: Fly Silicon filled Chrome Handle Bars with Pro Taper Grips Front Shocks: 2006 Yamaha YFZ-450SE Silver Nitrogen Shocks Rear Shock: OEM Banshee Shock Silver Spindles: 2010 OEM Yamaha YFZ-450R Spindles Hubs: 2010 YFZ-450R Hubs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings, The rears are OEM YFZ-350 Hubs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings Steering Stem: 2006 YFZ-450 Steering Stem with Lone Star Flag Brakes: YFZ450R Dual Piston Front Brake Calipers With Galfer Pads in the Front And OEM YFZ-350 Rear Caliper with Alba Rotor and Galfer Pads Axle: Forward PowerSports +1+1 Heavy Duty Forged Rear Axle Swing Arm: +2 Swing Arm Wth OEM Style Carrier and Skid Plate Mount. " All Ball's Upgraded Bearings in Carrier Housing" Wheels: Rear 9", 3:5 Dishing ITP Baja T-9 Aluminum Wheels with Bend Ring, Front 10" Douglas Yellow Label Aluminum Wheels with 4:1 Tires: Rear 20X11-9 BKT AT-111* 6 Ply "Maxxis Razr Knock Off's". Front 21X10-7 BKT AT-111* 6 Ply "Maxxis Razr Knock Off's" Guards/Bumpers Skid Plates: DG Baja Series Full Body Skid Plates Swing Arm and Belly. Qualex Custom a arm Skid Plates Guards: DG Front and Side Frame Guard, and Maier Rear Rotor Guard, Qualex OEM Replica Forged Steel Front Bumper, DG Rear Bumper, DG 6 Pack Rack. Lubricants Used: Super Syn Synthetic Grease Prestone DOT-4 Synthetic Brake Fluid Interchangeable Part's: Front Plastic: Black Maier Raptor Style Front Plastic Red Maier OEM Style Front Plastic Bumpers: Polished Aluminum JAW'S Front Bumper Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper Wheels/Tires: OEM Aluminum Wheels Set # 1 ----------------------------------Terf Tamer Turf Tires 98% Tread Life (Front=20X6-10)--(Rear= 22X12-9) OEM Aluminum Wheels Set # 2----------------------------------- ITP Hole Shots 65% Tread Life (Front= 20X6-10)--(Rear=20X10-9) Douglas Blue Label Polished Aluminum Wheels-----------------15 Paddle Scat Track Haulers/ Smoothies 99% Tread Life (Front=21X7-10)--(Rear=24X10-10) Seats: New Black 1999 OEM Yamaha Banshee Seat OEM 2004 Yamaha Banshee Seat with Black and Red Flame Leather/Gripper Seat Cover Headlight Covers Red and Black Eye Ball Covers Silver GYTR Headlight Covers

I have a black hose that runs from the back of my Banshee to the front with a white elbow on the end of it thats got pulled loose some how. I think it hooks into my crank case and acts as a vent. When I rock my Banshee back on it's courtesy rack to load it up in my truck the crank case oil runs out of it. Do you guys have any Idea where that whit nylon fitting hooks into? I've looked around all over the case twice and I haven't had any luck. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Theres a guy on eBay that makes custom swing arms for any set up pretty cheap. I've got one of his swing arms for (OEM Stock Shock set up and OEM Style skid plates) and it has worked great for me. Yamaha BANSHEE Swingarms Swing arms -2 +2 +4 +6 +8 +10 +12 Buy Now $199.99 USD Shipping $28.95 Extended BANSHEE Swingarms With skidplate mounting brackets and OEM style shock set up Your choice of size & powdercoat color -2" +2" +4" +6" +8" +10" +12" Color: Powder Chrome Gloss Black Silver Vein Piviot tube Bearings installed Request size & color with payment or e-mail Swingarm is virtually indestructible! Fits any year Banshee with a stock axle carrier & shock 1 Year Warranty - Satisfaction Guaranteed