Thack82

Okay This is not the exact Billet Stator Cover I'm running but I think this is the kit that replaced it: Its not like I wasn't running a Case Saver at all, I was running one that was a piece of junk obviously but I did have one. The point of this thread was to get input on the billet cases which obviously you think is a waste of money on my set up and get the word out to any BHQ guys that are going bigger or parting out a Banshee that had a set that I could pick up at a fair price. n2otoofast4u thats a good deal on those cases but there still out of my price range. I was hoping to find a used set for under $1,200. But I'll keep you in mind, let me see what kind of money I can come up with. WINDYCITYJOHN400 I really don't think I'll go with a Stroker set up even when I need to rebuild the bottom end. I built my set up for low end and I'm happy with it. I know Strokers generally rev faster and make more power throughout the entire RMP Range especially on the bottom end but I like small Displacement high revving Short Stoke Set ups. If I could have bought the Serval Top End in a 358cc Displacement like the Cheetah I probably would have went that rout. Thats just my personal preference. Anyways thank you guys for your input, the chip in my case is purely cosmetic at this point. I'm going to buy a better Case saver and and hope I run across a good deal that I can justify spending the money on. n2otoofast4u please let me know if you can get closer to my budget I would love to buy those cases. Thanks, Thack 82

The Billet Stator Cover I bought off eBay came with Stainless Steel Hard Ware and a Generic Case Saver. I thought it would be fine so I didn't upgrade it. The case save that came with the billet cover appeared to be made out of neoprene, It did keep the chain from hitting the important part of the case but it still allowed the chain to wrap around the front sprocket and it actually gave way and made contact with the case and put pressure on it causing it to break. I usually try to replace any parts that break with or ware with the best parts available. I'm currently looking for a couple of other used but still in good condition used parts. I'm hopeing to run up on a used Lonestar MX Standard Travel Frame and Sub Frame, a Lonestar or Ace Fabrication Aluminum Powder Coated OE Length Swing Arm with a Upgraded Carrier, a Elka Rear Pro Dual Shock Linkage, and a few other things................. Hold on just a minute and I'll see if I can find the Billet Aluminum Stator Cover Kit I bought and post it on here.

They would look good with the rest of my Polished Parts But I really wasn't wanting them because they are polished, I wanted them for reliability. It wouldn't bother me if they had a brushed aluminum finish. My goal throughout this entire build has been reliability over everything else. I'm trying to build a bullet proof Banshee. This whole build Idea started about three years ago at a Halloween Party I had. I had a bunch of friends over that were all into the Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles and they all raced the new Four Strokes. We were in my garage looking at my cars ( Z06 Corvette, and My Camaro Z28) that I occasionally Drag Race and they started talking to me about getting into the the Hare Scrambles, well me on about my 13th beer and being out of the Sport Quad Scene since 2001 when I was a Teenager and rode a Yamaha Blaster with a DG Pipe/Silencer, Jet Kit, and Twin Air Dual Stage Air Filter popped off and said that I would build a Banshee and put all there Four Jokes to shame. I was remembering back when I had a Blaster that would beat Warriors and the Banshee was Pretty much King. Hell it was on the cover of just about every Dirt Wheels and ATV Action every month, every months issue they had some new quad going up against the Banshee aether the 400EX, the Raptor 660, or the DS-650 and from what I remembered the Banshee beat them all, and that was my dream quad. Anyway they laughed there ass off and told me that the Banshee was a Dinosaur that over heated, rode/handled like shit, it had junky suspension, and they really didn't even have that much power. They said the new 450's would run circles around them. In attempt to prove them wrong I went out and bought a 2004 Bone Stock Banshee and it didn't take long to find out that everything they said was true. But there not laughing anymore my Banshee will smoke there ass in the woods or in the 1, 2, 3, GO River Bottom Drag Races, I'll shoot the same hills they do, It doesn't Overheat, and it rides and handles just as good as any of the 450's out there (excluding the YFZ-450R) and just about all of them have Ported Heads, Hot/Web Cams and a few have aftermarket Cylinder Works Cylinders and Stroker Cranks. But it's been a long hard road getting it there. I wanted to get a set of the Billet Cases because so far I've tried to replace everything with the strongest parts available. It made me sick when I Chipped my case, every ride or race we go on my Banshee comes out of the trailer looking like a brand new bike. I wish I could find somebody parting out a motor with the Billet OE Size Cases or find someone wanting to sell theirs to upgrade to a three or four cylinder. The Chip in mine is just cosmetic so I'm going to take my time and pray I run up on a deal. Thanks for the comments, keep the input coming.

Do any of you Guys run Mattoon's Twin Billet Cases with the stock 102mm spread? I'm thinking about buying a set to go with my Show Polished Stock Stroke, Play Ported, 392cc Serval Cub. I'm wanting them for extra strength mainly. Last weekend we all went to DTOR and trail rode. There was one hill that was straight up that was full of rocks and roots that all the 4 Pokes were battling. I got about 15ft back and turned her loose, and I made it, I came back down and watched them struggle with it for about five more minutes and I decided to attempt it again. I did the same thing except this time my rear skid hit a big ass rock HARD and I broke the top Carrier Bolt on my swing arm and that threw my rear end out of whack and my chain came off. The Mod-Quad Billet Case Saver did its job and kept the chain from smacking the case but I had the motor wound up tight and it wrapped my chain around my front sprocket about one and a half times and it knocked a chunk out of the top of my Case. The part it knocked out is purely cosmetic, so I was able to get my tool kit out and get the chain back on to get me back to the truck where I have a assortment of Hardened T-304 Stainless Steel Bolts. That bolt and a few others on the Swing Arm were the only bolts I had left on the entire quad that I hadn't went ahead and replaced with Hardened T-304 Bolts and T-304 Nylon Lock Nuts and I also add Blue Permatex Loc-Tite to just for extra security to keep stuff like that from happening. I was able to to take my Cordless Dremel Tool and a Fine Grit Sanding Implement and round the hole up. It doesn't look bad I didn't even mention that part to the guys that were watching and they didn't notice. They just thought I broke a Bolt. Do you guys know of any other Company that make Billet Cylinders for the Banshee? $1,895.00 is the best deal I can get Mattoon to cut me and thats no gaskets, no bearings, nothing, just the billet cases! I've bought a lot of Performance Mods from them too and I was hoping they might show some compassion and cut me a deal. I wish I could get lucky and find someone parting out a Banshee with that Case Set Up or somebody that was selling theirs to go to a three or four cylinder billet case. anyway any input would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks, Thack82

I'm wanting to upgrade my Cases to Billet Cases. Please contact me if you have what I'm looking for. I plan on mounting a Trail Ported Stock Stroke 392cc Serval Cub on them. Banshee Twin Billet cases stock 102mm spread with stock 62mm crank bearings

Thats what I have on my Banshee now and I like them, I just thought a bigger Carburetor set up might benefit my set up more. When I had Jeff at F.A.S.T. get the Top End Set Up together for me he said that most of the guys that he built Serval Cubs for ran aether Stock Mikuni 26mm Carburetors or Keihin PJ 34mm Carburetors. I think 34's would be to big for my type of riding. I know this might sound stupid but I'm going to ask anyway, is there a bigger aftermarket Flat or "D" Slide Carburetors that are set up like the Stock Mikuni 26's with the Single Choke Knob and a Cross Over Tube?

I have a 2004 Banshee with a built 392cc 68mm Serval Cub. I mostly Trail Ride and I occasionally run a Hare Scramble. My complete set up is set up for Low-Mid Power right now except for my gearing and Curves #3 and #4 on my Dynatek Adjustable CDI Box. The set up I've put together works great but I'm always looking for more power. Do you guys think I would gain any if I bought a set of 30mm Flat Slides and sold my Keihin "D" Slide 28mm Carbs? What brand do you guy's personally think work best on the Banshee Keihin or Mikuni, and what about the OKO's are they Junk? I would like to stay around 30mm-32mm because I don't want to give up any of my low end lugging torque. The way I see it my Banshee didn't loose any low end jumping from the stock Mikuni 26mm Round Slides to the 28mm Keihin "D" Slides but it showed a good gain in the mid and top pull. I figured the faster velocity associated with a Flat Slide Carburetor vs a "D" Slide Carburetor would help me keep my low end power and gain even more power in the mid and top. It's just a thought, what do you guys think? 2004 Yamaha Banshee XC/Trail Quad ----------------Engine------------- Cylinders: Polished 392cc Serval Cub Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacement Pistons: Trinity Exclusive High Compression Forged Pro-Lite Pistons Port Work: F.A.S.T. Play Port Timing: +4° Plugs: NGKX Iridium Spark Plugs Wires: Accell 8.8mm Racing Spark Plug Wires Reed Cages Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds Intakes: 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes Boost Bottle: Pro-Design Billet Boost Bottle Ignition: Dyna-Tek Performance Coil, Dynatek FS CDI (4) Curve with Selector Switch. Stator: Electro-Sport High Output 250 Watt Stator Flywheel: RM-Stator High Output Flywheel (Stock size and weight with stronger magnets) Carburetors: Keihin 28mm PWK "D" Slide Carburetors (160 DG Main Jets and #52 Pilots) Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers Air Intake: Modded OEM Air Box With Pro-Flow Billet Adapter, EHS/Outerwears Lid and Snorkel Booty Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with 21cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Cover/Plate Housing and Impeller, Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers/One with Temp Gauge, Mull Billet Water Pump Gear, Red ASI Silicon Hoses, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap * Fine Tuned and Built by WPR "WITHROW POWERSPORTS" Lubricants & Fuel Used: (Ounces/Gallon 110 Octane Torqo Race Fuel Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) Marvel's Mystery Oil (2/1) Blue Engine Ice with Royal Purple's "Purple Ice"

I'm sorry Guy I didn't mean to miss lead you, they are PJ 34mm Carbs, keep the opinion's coming I want to print them out and give them to my buddy that owns the Performance Shop "Withrow Powersport's". He told the guy that brought the Banshee in that he needed to have Aggressive Porting and a Big Bore or Aftermarket Big Bore Cylinder Set Up to utilize those big carburetors and get them tuned properly on that bike. Your input is a tremendous help!

A buddy of mine that owns a ATV Performance Shop had a 05 Banshee dropped off at his shop with the following performance parts wanting them put on and his quad tuned: Pro-Design Cool Head/21cc Domes Twin UNI Foam Filters (Straight off the Carbs NO Air Box) T5 Pipes and Silencer's New NGKR BR8ES Spark Plugs Pro-Design 34mm Billet Intakes Brand New 34mm Keihin PWK Dual Carb Kit (Complete with Throttle Cable, Small Jet Kit 55 Pilots/162, 165 Mains. I'm assuming the two Main Jets he got in the kit are his summer and winter Jets) * 748-780 Feet Above Sea Level with 93 Octane Pump Gas Mixed 32:1. These are the only mods on the Banshee, the timings not advanced, it has NO Port work, bone stock top and bottom end. Right now he has the 55 Pilot and the 162 Main Jets in the PWK's and he ask me to take it for a quick ride to see what I thought because I ride a Banshee. It feels sick on the bottom and it has a ton of intake noise but once the power band hits it feels okay. I told him I'd see what the BHQ Guy's thought and let him know something this afternoon. Will these 34mm PWK's work on pretty much a stock Banshee? We tried putting a set of 48 Pilots I had in my Kit in it and it popped and chocked out when you pinned the throttle, so he tried the 55's and it did run and it didn't choke. I'm going to stop by Derby Cycle today and try to pick up a 50 and a 52 Pilot. Is it possible to get this pretty much Stock Banshee tuned and running properly with these big 34mm PWK's? Any Input would be greatly appreciated.

Frame- $350 Rear Shock- $75.00 Sub Frame- $175.00 Rear Swing Arm- $75.00

Hey Guy's, a buddy of mine that owns a Performance shop ask me to list thses 2006 YFZ-450SE Parts on here for any of you guys who might be wanting to attempt a YFZ/Banshee Hybrid. Red 2006 YFZ-450 Frame 2006 YFZ-450SE Sub Frame 2006 YZF-450SE Carrier 2006 YFZ-450SE Swing Arm 2006 YFZ-450 Rear Shock 2006 YFZ-450SE Axle 2006 YFZ-450 Gas Tank I'll get back with you guys and let you know prices on each part, until then please make offers if your interested.

I'm sure I sound like a jerk making that comment but he has talked shit about my Cobbled up YFZ Front Suspension from day one. I was trying to help some other HQ Members who were thinking about doing the swap by telling them what parts were needed and what year YFZ components would and wouldn't work and he raked me over the coals. The YFZ Suspension with Full Flight A Arms is a great upgrade over the stock Banshee Suspension. I thought it was good in stock form and then I met and became good friends with a Guy who opened a ATV Performance Shop near by. He Graduated MMI "Marine and Motorcycle Institute" back about 12 or 13 years ago. He's got a good working relationship with Race-Tech and a bunch of the guys that work in he shop and he was telling them about the conversion I did. They cut him a unheard of deal on the parts Gold Valves, Springs, and a few other things) and some other stuff and after he tuned them in the out come was way more than I expected. When I told him I had originally bought YFZR and I couldn't get everything the way I wanted it so I sold them and bought SE Shocks he dropped the bomb on me and told me that he had talked with the guys at Race Tech about that when in a previous conversation and Race Tech had the guts needed for the R Shock Conversion and I could have used them and the swap could have been a true 2010 YFZR Component Swap other than the +2 aftermarket YFZR Steering Stem and the Full Flight A Arms. He set my quad up for MX, he says a Quad set up for MX will perform better for some one like me who does all types of riding VS a Suspension that set up just for the Woods. It turned out good and I would recommend the YFZ Conversion and Aftermarket A Arm Set Up to anyone who's wanting to upgrade there Banshee Suspension.

Guy's I was going back through some of my old BHQ posting and I wanted to make sure I corrected this so no one is miss led. You can run all the new YFZR components with the Full Flight +3 A Arm's "FOE YFZ SUSPENSION COMPONENT'S with 12 point adjustable Chroolly Heims " with the OEM YFZR Spindles, Hubs, Brakes, Brake Lines, and Steering Stem Flag but it works best with a +2 aftermarket/Modded YFZR Steering Stem. As long as the quad is setting on the ground the geometry is correct and the Heims can be adjusted so the joints aren't in a bind. That being said when the weight transfers is throws the geometry out of wack do to the extra length incorporated in them. The best thing to do if you want to use the Stock YFZR Shock's is have them reworked. I have a friend that owns a ATV Performance Shop "Withrow Powersport's" and he got with Race-Tech and found out the adjustments that need to be made and the other Race-Tech Components that need to be purchased and it's fairly cheap. I know one thing is the Spring itself but I'm not real sure about everything else. I ended up selling my 2010 YFZ-450R Shocks and replacing them with a set of 2007 YFZ-450SE Shocks and it turned out great, but if I had know Matt (Shop Owner) at the time I would have let him reworked the 2010 YFZR shocks so I would have had a full 2010 YFZ-450R/Full Flight set up. Plus the Newer YFZR Shock's are better that the YFZSE Shock's. The way I see it in order for the suspension to be set up properly and perform at it's maximum potential the YFZR and the YFZSE Shock's need to be Rebuilt and Re-valved for the Banshee as well as the rider's weight and "Feel" preferences anyway so you might as well go the extra inch and use the YFZR Shock's because there a better building platform to start from VS the YFZSE Shocks. I know a lot of the members of BHQ say the YFZ Front Suspension/Full Flight A Arm Swap Sucks compared to Elka, Work's, and Fox Shocks with a Lone Star A Arm Kit made for a Banshee, but I rode other Banshee's that belong to other people that had Work's and Elka Shocks and they've rode mine and come back and said my Banshee Rides and handles better than theirs. I havent run into another Banshee owner that was running Fox Floats or any other form of Fox Shock so they might be different. I also don't know about there shock set up as far as custom set up, they might have just bought a set of used Work's or Elka's off the internet and just bolted them on without any adjustments for there Quad or themselves. I have about $780.00 tied up in my complete front Suspension, and I have a OEM Rear Shock and Swing Arm. I had Matt Withrow Rebuild and Re-valve the Stock Rear Shock and put a Heavier Race-Tech Spring on it to support my weight (225lbs) and I couldn't be happier with the suspension. I took all the Suspension measurements off a 2010 YFZ-450R and Bought a +1+1 Forged Rear Axle from Forward Powersport's and I bought a set of ITP T-9 Polished Aluminum Rear Wheels and a Set of Polished Aluminum Douglas Yellow Label Front Wheels and a new set of BKT AT-111 21X7-10 Front Tires and a New Set Of BKT AT-111 20X11-9 Rear Tires (Front Tires are NOT Depicted In Picture Spec Diagram Bellow) to complete the set up and allow the Banshee to have the same Suspension Spec's, Travel and Wheels Base as the 2010 YFZ-450R. In the Suspension Completed, Rebuilt, Re-sprung, Re-valved and set up for me and my quad I have under $1,000 invested, and if MattSCSS is reading this, I'm 98% there after my Suspension guy and I do a little more fine tuning I'll put my suspension up against any suspension set up you can put together for under $1,000 and beat it. That' was your suggestion back when I started trying different things and refining this set up and I think I'm there with any worries!

I have a very Clean set of Paul Turner Mid's & Fat Boy II Silencers that I am the second owner of. Luna Racing (another BansheeHQ Member) sold them to me with virtually no use on them because he was a Dune Racer. I'm wanting to trade a nice set of a Clean set of Chrome Paul Turner High Rev's or a set of Chrome Plated Rocket II Pipes. These Pipes were cleaned with Eagle-1 Chrome Wheel Cleaner and Polished with a combination of Blue Job and Turtle Wax Chrome Polish after every use. My pipes are just about as clean as a used pipe can be. there is NO Chrome chipped or missing and they have NO dents. The Polished Aluminum Fat Boy II Silencers had a Galvanized Aluminized Steel end Cap from the Factory when you order the from Duncan Racing and I was afraid they would start to rust so I sent the End Caps to B&B Powder Coating in Harrodsburg Kentucky and had them Powder Coated Metallic Silver. They also have around three hours of ride time on Fresh FMF Racing Two Stroke Packing, I also replaced all the mounting Hard Ware with Forged Polished T-304 Stainless Steel Metric Bolts and Nylon Lock Nuts. They will come with Two Brand New Exhaust O-Rings that I have hanging in my Garage. They really are a awesome Pipe and Silencer Kit I haven't seen any other Pipe that has the Quality that the Paul Turner Pipes and Silencers have. I'm trying to trade them because I need a little more Mid and Top End and I think theirs probably a better Pipe and Silencer Combo out there that will allow the Serval Cub to breath a little better. I will consider selling them as well if the rice is right. If they don't sell I'll probably just buy a set of PT High Rev's and swap back and forth depending on where I'm riding and what kind of riding I do. Please let me know if your interested. Thanks, Jim

I have a 2004 Banshee with just about every Bolt On Performance Part you can buy and a F.A.S.T. Play Port and Polished 392cc Serval Cub that I've spent the past two years building, I'd say I'm 99% finished but I wanted to get some input on my set up and exhaust. I'm thinking about buying another pipe set up to switch in and out with my Paul Turner Mid's. I'm looking at the Triple Plated Chrome R2's and the Triple Plated Chrome Paul Turner High Rev's Have any of you guys that run Serval Cubs or other Mono Block Set Ups had experience with these Exhaust Systems? I've looked at just about all of them and I'm desiding between those three, but I'm open to all recommendations. I pasted a detailed build sheet and a few pictures bellow to aid you guys in your recommendations. The only thing that I haven't bought or modified is the rear swing arm and frame. ----------------Engine------------- Cylinders: Polished 392cc Serval Cub Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacment Pistons: Trinity Exclusive High Compression Forged Pro-Lite Pistons Port Work: F.A.S.T. Play Port Timing: +4° Plugs: NGKX Iridium Spark Plugs Wires: Accell 8.8mm Racing Spark Plug Wires Reed Cages Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds Intakes: 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes Boost Bottle: Pro-Design Billet Boost Bottle Ignition: Dyna-Tek Performance Coil, Dyna-Tek Programmable CDI, Upgraded 14 Gauge Wire from Stator to Coil Stator: Electro-Sport High Output 250 Watt Stator Flywheel: RM-Stator High Output Flywheel (Stock size and weight with super strong magnets) Carburetors: Keihin 28mm PWK "D" Slide Carburetors (160 DG Main Jets and #50 Pilots) Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers Air Intake: Modded OEM Air Box With Pro-Flow Billet Adapter, EHS/Outerwears Lid and Snorkel Booty, Pro-Design Mass-Flow Air Filter Kit, and Rubber Drain Cover Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with 21cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Cover/Plate Housing and Impeller, Three Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers/One with Temp Gauge, Mull Billet Water Pump Gear, Red ASI Silicon Hoses, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap Lubricants & Fuel Used: (Ounces/Gallon 93 Octane/110 Octane Race Fuel (50/50) Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) Marvel's Mystery Oil (2/1) Blue Engine Ice with Royal Purple's "Purple Ice" -----------Transmission----------- Clutch: Drive Line Extreme 8 Plate Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch (R-1 Friction Plates and other Components) Clutch Basket: Mattoon Extreme 8 Plate Heavy Duty Billet Clutch Basket Lock Up: Drive Line Stealth Lock Up Shift Star: Mull Racing Shift Star Clutch Lever: Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Lever with Billet Slave Cylinder and Stainless Steel Braided Clear Plastic coated Line Shifter: Mod Quad Break Away Short Shifter Gearing: 15/42 (15 Tooth Front East Coast ATV Sprocket and 42 Tooth East Coast ATV Rear Sprocket) Lubricants Used: Lucas Synthetic 5W-30 ATV/Dirt Bike Transmission Oil TWO2COOL Transmission Cooling Additive Prestone DOT-4 Full Synthetic Brake Fluid -------------Suspension------------- A Arms: Full Flight +3+1 Silver Vein A Arms (For YFZ-450 Front Suspension Components) With 12 Point Adjustable Chromoly Heim Joints Tie Rods: Full Flight + 3 Tie Rods with Tusk HD Tie Rod Ends Handle Bars: Fly Silicon filled Chrome Handle Bars with Pro Taper Grips Front Shocks: 2006 Yamaha YFZ-450SE Silver Nitrogen Shocks (Tuned by Withrow Powersport's) Rear Shock: OEM YFZ-350 Silver Nitrogen Shock with Stiffer Silver Race Tech Rear Spring (Set Up and Tuned by Withrow Powersport's ) Spindles: 2010 Yamaha YFZ-450 Yamaha Spindles Hubs: 2010 YFZ-450R Hubs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings, The rears are OEM YFZ-350 Hubs Steering Stem: Lone Star +2 YFZ-450R Steering Stem with Lone Star Flag Brakes: YFZ450R Dual Piston Front Brake Calipers With Factory Spec Pads in the Front And YFZ-450R Rear Caliper with Factory Spec Rotor and Pads Axle: Forward PowerSports +1+1 Heavy Duty Forged Rear Axle with Duncan Dual Locking Axle Nuts Swing Arm: OEM Swing Arm With with All Ball's Upgraded Bearings Wheels: ITP T-9 Deep Dish 9X11 Polished Aluminum Rear Wheels with Bend Rings and Polished Aluminum 10X7 Douglas Yellow Label Front Wheels Tires: Nitrogen Filled Super Grip AA1 6 Ply 20X11-9 in the Rear and Nitrogen Filled Super Grips 6 Ply 21X7-10 in the Front (RAZR Knock offs) Lubricants Used: Super Syn Synthetic Grease Prestone DOT-4 Synthetic Brake Fluid Nitrogen Filled By S&S Tire --------------------Other----------------- Skid Plates: DG Baja Series Full Body Skid Plates Swing Arm and Belly. Qualex Custom a arm Skid Plates Guards: DG Front and Side Frame Guard, and Maier Rear Rotor Guard, Shark Performance Brake Line Clamps Bumpers: Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper and DG Alloy Series Aluminum Rear Bumper Nerf Bars: DG Fat Boy Series Nerf Bars Gauges: Mod-Quad 3" Billet In-Line Cooler with Temp Gauge, Trail Tech Vapor Handle Bar Dash Board/Billet Pod (Speedometer, Tach, Distance functions, Temp Gauge, Clock) Harness: OEM YFZ-350 Banshee Wiring Harness in D.E.I Fire Proof Sleeve Hoses: All ASI and HELIX Silicon Hoses with Accell Heat Resistant Protective Braided Loom and heat Springs. Fuel Lines are Mr. Gasket Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Lines Tether: Pro-Armor Universal Pull Tether Plastic: New Black OEM Style Maier Rear Plastic and New Red Maier Font Fenders with Black Tank Covers and Silver Radiator Cover Graphics: 2003 Yamaha Banshee Limited Edition OEM Replica Graphics on Moto Vinyl Red Fad replacing Yellow Fade on OEM Style front Plastic ---------------Interchangeable Parts------ Wheels/Tires: Douglas Blue Label 10X12 Wheels With 15 Paddle Haulers, OEM Rear Wheels with 2" Spacers and 9X10 Terf Tires, OEM Front Wheels with Sand Gecko Smooth Sand Front Tires Front Plastic: Black Maier Custom "Raptor" Front Plastic with matching Graphics Seats: Black 2001 Black OEM Seat, 2004 OEM Seat With Red and Black Flame Gripper Seat Cover Front Bumper: Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper, JAWS Aluminum Front Bumper

I have a 2004 Banshee with just about every Bolt On Performance Part you can buy and a F.A.S.T. Play Port and Polished 392cc Serval Cub that I've spent the past two years building, I'd say I'm 99% finished but I wanted to get some input on my set up and exhaust. I'm thinking about buying another pipe set up to switch in and out with my Paul Turner Mid's. I'm looking at the Triple Plated Chrome R2's and the Triple Plated Chrome Paul Turner High Rev's Have any of you guys that run Serval Cubs or other Mono Block Set Ups had experience with these Exhaust Systems? I've looked at just about all of them and I'm desiding between those three, but I'm open to all recommendations. I pasted a detailed build sheet and a few pictures bellow to aid you guys in your recommendations. The only thing that I haven't bought or modified is the rear swing arm and frame. ---------------Engine------------- Cylinders: Polished 392cc Serval Cub Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacment Pistons: Trinity Exclusive High Compression Forged Pro-Lite Pistons Port Work: F.A.S.T. Play Port Timing: +4° Plugs: NGKX Iridium Spark Plugs Wires: Accell 8.8mm Racing Spark Plug Wires Reed Cages Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds Intakes: 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes Boost Bottle: Pro-Design Billet Boost Bottle Ignition: Dyna-Tek Performance Coil, Dyna-Tek Programmable CDI, Upgraded 14 Gauge Wire from Stator to Coil Stator: Electro-Sport High Output 250 Watt Stator Flywheel: RM-Stator High Output Flywheel (Stock size and weight with super strong magnets) Carburetors: Keihin 28mm PWK "D" Slide Carburetors (160 DG Main Jets and #50 Pilots) Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers Air Intake: Modded OEM Air Box With Pro-Flow Billet Adapter, EHS/Outerwears Lid and Snorkel Booty, Pro-Design Mass-Flow Air Filter Kit, and Rubber Drain Cover Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with 21cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Cover/Plate Housing and Impeller, Three Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers/One with Temp Gauge, Mull Billet Water Pump Gear, Red ASI Silicon Hoses, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap Lubricants & Fuel Used: (Ounces/Gallon 93 Octane/110 Octane Race Fuel (50/50) Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) Marvel's Mystery Oil (2/1) Blue Engine Ice with Royal Purple's "Purple Ice" -----------Transmission----------- Clutch: Drive Line Extreme 8 Plate Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch (R-1 Friction Plates and other Components) Clutch Basket: Mattoon Extreme 8 Plate Heavy Duty Billet Clutch Basket Lock Up: Drive Line Stealth Lock Up Shift Star: Mull Racing Shift Star Clutch Lever: Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Lever with Billet Slave Cylinder and Stainless Steel Braided Clear Plastic coated Line Shifter: Mod Quad Break Away Short Shifter Gearing: 15/42 (15 Tooth Front East Coast ATV Sprocket and 42 Tooth East Coast ATV Rear Sprocket) Lubricants Used: Lucas Synthetic 5W-30 ATV/Dirt Bike Transmission Oil TWO2COOL Transmission Cooling Additive Prestone DOT-4 Full Synthetic Brake Fluid -------------Suspension------------- A Arms: Full Flight +3+1 Silver Vein A Arms (For YFZ-450 Front Suspension Components) With 12 Point Adjustable Chromoly Heim Joints Tie Rods: Full Flight + 3 Tie Rods with Tusk HD Tie Rod Ends Handle Bars: Fly Silicon filled Chrome Handle Bars with Pro Taper Grips Front Shocks: 2006 Yamaha YFZ-450SE Silver Nitrogen Shocks (Tuned by Withrow Powersport's) Rear Shock: OEM YFZ-350 Silver Nitrogen Shock with Stiffer Silver Race Tech Rear Spring (Set Up and Tuned by Withrow Powersport's ) Spindles: 2010 Yamaha YFZ-450 Yamaha Spindles Hubs: 2010 YFZ-450R Hubs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings, The rears are OEM YFZ-350 Hubs Steering Stem: Lone Star +2 YFZ-450R Steering Stem with Lone Star Flag Brakes: YFZ450R Dual Piston Front Brake Calipers With Factory Spec Pads in the Front And YFZ-450R Rear Caliper with Factory Spec Rotor and Pads Axle: Forward PowerSports +1+1 Heavy Duty Forged Rear Axle with Duncan Dual Locking Axle Nuts Swing Arm: OEM Swing Arm With with All Ball's Upgraded Bearings Wheels: ITP T-9 Deep Dish 9X11 Polished Aluminum Rear Wheels with Bend Rings and Polished Aluminum 10X7 Douglas Yellow Label Front Wheels Tires: Nitrogen Filled Super Grip AA1 6 Ply 20X11-9 in the Rear and Nitrogen Filled Super Grips 6 Ply 21X7-10 in the Front (RAZR Knock offs) Lubricants Used: Super Syn Synthetic Grease<br style="COLOR:rgb(0,0,0);">Prestone DOT-4 Synthetic Brake Fluid Nitrogen Filled By S&S Tire <br style="COLOR:rgb(64,0,127);">---------------Other----------------- Skid Plates: DG Baja Series Full Body Skid Plates Swing Arm and Belly. Qualex Custom a arm Skid Plates Guards: DG Front and Side Frame Guard, and Maier Rear Rotor Guard, Shark Performance Brake Line Clamps Bumpers: Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper and DG Alloy Series Aluminum Rear Bumper Nerf Bars: DG Fat Boy Series Nerf Bars Gauges: Mod-Quad 3" Billet In-Line Cooler with Temp Gauge, Trail Tech Vapor Handle Bar Dash Board/Billet Pod (Speedometer, Tach, Distance functions, Temp Gauge, Clock) Harness: OEM YFZ-350 Banshee Wiring Harness in D.E.I Fire Proof Sleeve Hoses: All ASI and HELIX Silicon Hoses with Accell Heat Resistant Protective Braided Loom and heat Springs. Fuel Lines are Mr. Gasket Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Lines Tether: Pro-Armor Universal Pull Tether -----------------Appearance----------------- Plastic: New Black OEM Style Maier Rear Plastic and New Red Maier Font Fenders with Black Tank Covers and Silver Radiator Cover Graphics: 2003 Yamaha Banshee Limited Edition OEM Replica Graphics on Moto Vinyl Red Fad replacing Yellow Fade on OEM Style front Plastic ---------------Interchangeable Parts------ Wheels/Tires: Douglas Blue Label 10X12 Wheels With 15 Paddle Haulers, OEM Rear Wheels with 2" Spacers and 9X10 Terf Tires, OEM Front Wheels with Sand Gecko Smooth Sand Front Tires Front Plastic: Black Maier Custom "Raptor" Front Plastic with matching Graphics Seats: Black 2001 Black OEM Seat, 2004 OEM Seat With Red and Black Flame Gripper Seat Cover Front Bumper: Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper, JAWS Aluminum Front Bumper

I just got the Kit put in and it works great. It's amazing how much stronger my Power Band feels when I'm actually getting all the power to the ground. If you running the 8 Plate Drive-Line Kit you need a 8 Plate Inner Hub I agree with the other members, my set up is over kill but then again I don't have to worry about loosing power do to a slipping clutch. I would strongly recommend the Drive-Line Stealth Lock Up.

Yea, Jeff told me the same thing. The Hinson inner/Outer Hub Kit is high though. Around $800.

Okay I just keep running into parts in my Clutch Assembly that need to be replaced. The Diagram above depicts my latest issue. The Big Gear that bolts on the back of the Clutch Basket and so is the Bushing. I just got my New Driveline 8 Plate Extreme Dune& Trail Clutch Kit, Driveline Stealth Lock Up, and a Mattoon Extreme Heavy Duty 8 Plate Billet Aluminum Clutch Basket, and now it looks like I'm going to need more parts. The combination of the worn Gear and Bushing allowed so much free play when the clutch was in motion that is flopped around inside my Brand New Polished Clutch Case and damn near cut the water jacket. My case was full of metal shavings. I went ahead and had Withrow Power Sports tig up and grind down the groove it had worn inside my case, so it should be okay. I ran across this listing on eBay, it looks like it would solve half my problem but it doesn't solve the Worn Gear issue: I think Yamaha should have put something like this in the Banshee to begin with. This gear is machined from a solid piece of hardened steel and it looks to me like it replaces the Bronze Bushing with a Needle Bearing that should reduce drag and wear much better than than a Bushing. The problem is it's $132.00 and I have to wait for it. I haven't even got to feel to real power my new Serval Set Up is putting out because I've had major clutch issues from the get go. Please let me know if you guys have any ideas on what I should do here.

Hey guys, I just bought a Driveline Stealth Lock Up, a Mattoon Extreme Heavy Duty 8 Plate Billet Clutch Basket, and a Driveline, and a Drive Extreme 8 Plate Clutch Kit to go with my new Serval set up that I had Jeff at F.A.S.T. put together for me for XC Racing. I have a question for you guys, is it possible to modify the Stock Banshee Inner Hub to adapt it over to a 8 Plate Hub? There comes a time with all things when enough is enough and I'm there. If I had to guess I'd say I have close to $15,000 invested in my Banshee. I made a Promise to me and my Wife when I bought the Serval Set Up that I wouldn't sink any more money into the Banshee........ Then I got the Serval broke in and tuned by Withrow Power Sports and took to to our test course and rapped the clutch components. So I listed a bunch of my unused Banshee Parts on eBay and got enough money to buy the Clutch Components I listed. Pretty much all I lack is the 8 Plate Hub, If you cant mod it to fit 8 Plates do you guys know of some other company that makes them other than Hinson? Or even better do any of you have a used 8 Plate Hub that your wanting to get rid of for a decent price? I looked at the Slingshot Lock Up and it was about $100 more expensive than the Driveline. I've contacted Drive line several times and used the Heavy Duty Clutch Kits with YFZ-1000 Friction Plates and they have great Customer Service and there Clutch Kits are very high quality so I figured there lock up would be great quality too. I do hope they start making Clutch Baskets and Hubs. It would be nice if you could run all Driveline components. Anyway you guys get back with me if you have any suggestions regarding the 8 Plate Inner Hubs.

Does anyone have a Aftermarket/Performance 8 Plate Inner Clutch Hub that is used that they can cut me a deal on? I looked on eBay and WOW Hinson is very proud of there Hubs. I talked to Driveline and Mattoon and they both told me that Hinson was only company they knew of that made a Inner Hub that would hold 8 Plates, does any one know of a company other that Hinson that makes one of these Hubs? I just liquidated a lot of my old unused Banshee parts on eBay and bought all new Clutch Components for my Banshee. I went a little over board but I didn't want to take any chances. Horse Power is useless unless you can get it to the ground and I'm hard on Clutches and I hope this new set up takes care of it for good. The kit I'm putting in the should hold 150+ Horse Power. The Clutch Components I've bought so far are listed bellow: DRIVELINE STEALTH LOCK UP DRIVELINE 8 PLATE EXTREME DUNE AND TRAIL CLUTCH KIT MATTOON EXTREME HEAVY DUTY 8 PLATE BILLET CLUTCH BASKET All I have Left is 8 Plate Inter Hub, I'm hopping you guys can help me. I ran Lucas Full Synthetic SAE 10W-50 Motorcycle Oil for Wet Clutch Applications in my Transmission mixed with 2oz of TWO2COOL Transmission Coolant Additive and I had pretty good luck out of it with my Stock .020 Cylinder Set Up, so I plan to keep using that mix in my Transmission with this new Serval Cub. I also Run a Stream-Line Hydraulic Clutch Lever and Slave Cylinder. Anyway please let me know if any body has a 8 Inner Plate Hub or knows any body other than Hinson that might make one that doesn't cost so much. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Buy a Driveline Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch (With YZF-1000 Street Bike Friction Plates) You can get one off eBay for $69.95 + $7.00 Shipping and the kit is good for 75 Horse Power with OEM Components. Driveline also has outstanding Customer Service, they will talk to you on the phone and answer your emails to help you figure out the kit that suits you best. Heres a eBay Link for the Driveline Kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-CUSTOM-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-/300547413292?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45fa05952c I just had Jeff at F.A.S.T. build me a Serval Cub and I junked my Clutch Basket and Pressure Plate and my clutch started slipping right after break in. I was running a Driveline Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch Kit and when we pulled the Kit out of the Basket it looked great I'd say it still has close to 80% life left and it had been in there for over a year and a half. That wouldn't be a big deal in most cases but figured the clutch had to be wore pretty bad do to a period of time when I had problems getting my Hydraulic Clutch bled out and adjusted. I had a heck of a time getting the slave cylinder to engage and disengage properly. I also run my Banshee in local Hare Scramble Races which is hard on a clutch to start with, and I prefer tall gearing (15/42) and thats even more stress. IMO I wouldn't buy a clutch from anyone other than Driveline. I just ordered there Stealth Lock-Up and there 8 Plate Extreme Dune/Trail Clutch Kit to go back in my Banshee. I'm going to keep my old Driveline Clutch as a Back Up. I would have ordered a Billet basket from Drive Line as well but they don't have one available at this time so I ended up buying a Mattoon Extreme 8 Plate Heavy Duty Billet Clutch Basket.

Heres what I decided on, I know some of you guys think this set up might be a little over kill but I don't want to take any chances of getting beat because my clutch is slipping and not getting all the power to the ground. I have searched the internet for the past two weeks and this is what I feel like is the best products for the money that should take the clutch issues I'm having out of the equation: YAMAHA BANSHEE LOCK-UP This is our stealth lock-up clutch that fits under the stock side cover with only slight modifications. The lock-up is machined from 6061 billet aluminum, anodized black and utilizes ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack. The billet pressure plate that houses the ball bearings takes the place of the stock cast pressure plate giving it a more ridgid durability. Our lock-up uses ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack and is fully adjustable from the trail rider to the full drag racer. The amount of pressure that is applied to the clutch varies depending on the amount of ball bearings used in conjunction with the clutch spring stiffness. We have used our lock up clutch on 50H.P. quads up to 145H.P. drag engines. The purpose of a lock up clutch is to limit the amount of clutch slippage and apply the H.P. to the ground. Since there is a limited amount of clutch slippage the life span of the clutch pack is greatly extended. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ YAMAHA BANSHEE MATTOON 8 PLATE BILLET CLUTCH BASKET This is a brand new clutch basket, it is made from one solid block of 7075 aircraft quality aluminum. The backing plate is made of 4130 Chromoly and is mounted with grade 8 5/16 bolts to insure there are no problems. It includes the best cushions on the market. This basket can be used as a 7 or an 8 plate with no modifications to the basket. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ YAMAHA BANSHEE DUNE/TRAIL 8 PLATE EXTREME CLUTCH KIT! FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!! YAMAHA BANSHEE 8 PLATE CLUTCH KIT. This kit is designed for Banshees that have an aftermarket inner hub that can hold eight friction plates and seven steel plates. This kit will not fit in a standard clutch basket and inner hub set-up(standard clutch kits only have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates.) We have been an ATV dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being dynoed, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower. When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground. We have come up with a clutch kit combination that has worked well over the years and finally are able to have the kits made to our specifications. 1. We use the friction plates out of a 1997 YZF1000 street bike. These friction plates can stand up to high horsepower and are very durable. 2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. The steel plates are full plates which give maximum contact area with the friction plates. Our steels are smooth on both sides, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. The "dimples" are concave in shape which reduces surface material and contact area causing easier clutch slippage. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch(The clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping. 3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 20%-25% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The guys at Driveline Performance have been great to deal with any time I've had clutch issues and they have discounted both the 8 Plate Clutch Kit and the Lock Up for me. I would buy a Driveline Billet Clutch Basket too but as of right now they don't make one. I looked into just about every Lock Up made and theres is really the only one that is designed like that. Mattoon had a lock up that went behind the OEM style Case as well and it was quite a bit cheaper but I think you had to buy a Pressure Plate to go along with the lock up and I would have wanted to put an aftermarket in with the Lock Up and it would have ended up costing me more in the long run. I'm going to get my current build sheet posted tonight or tomorrow and I have a call into Duncan about the R&D and Dyno Charts that they did on the 28mm Billet Intakes VS the Stock OEM 26mm Intakes. I'll try to get that up as soon as possible. Thanks again for all your input. 1