thrill-billy85

yeha i found pics of what youre talking about... im not sure mine has those. most of the ones i see in pics do, but i dont remember seeing those on mine. too bad im at work, and my fucking useless ass girlfriend wont get off her ass and go take a picture of them.... cuase she's "tired"...... cause she was up at 4am going to spend MY money on "black friday"...... but neglected to put my card back...... so now im at work... cigarette, and red-bull-less...... sorry i had to get that out real quick

dude.... if your right then this is SURELY my problem....... it would make it run lean... which means idleing high and coming down when i pull the chokes..... just to be clear were NOT talking about the choke vacuum tube on the stock carbs, buy some kind of mystery tube on 28mm keihin PWK aftermarket carbuerators right???

UHHH.... are you talking about the choke balance tube on the STOCK carbs... if so these are not the stock ones....... of course if youre not talking about those then id love to know which holes exactly your refering

k&n snorkel removed fmf fatties.... 2800'

definitely a carb problem. the gas in the bed of ur truck was probably a stuck float... in fact id bet money on it. the biggest thing i can tell ya is to check the choke vacuum tube between the carbs. does it have the TORS removed???? tors is a wierd box thing on top of the carbs. first off..... boost bottle.... throw it in the trash and replace it with the stock equalizing tube. theyre dyno proven not to do SHIT..... except crack your rubber intake manifolds, causing it to run lean, make it hard as fuck to start, and amybe blow up your motor or burn holes in the pistons. the way to find out if this is your problem: get it started, and spray a little starting fluid on the manifolds. if it revs up, then BINGO. theres your problem. honestly though... it sounds like when it was rejetted for the toomeys, the float bowls were put on the wrong carbs.... only the float bowl on the left carb has the choke circut. they both look the same but theyre not. the left carb has a brass siphon tube that feeds DOWN FROM the main body of the carb into a hole. IN THAT hole is a tiny brass jet... if the bowl thats on the left carb DOESNT have it, then theyre wrong. ive dealt with all the afore mentioned issues...... and id bet the bowls are WRONG. by that i mean wrong bowl on the wrong carb. if you dont figure it out, and wanna give up on it, i have a set of stock carbs for sale that i guarantee are correct. TORS removed, jetted..... slap em on and have some fun. $100

just bought a set of used 28PWK's. cleaned them up(already really clean to begin with) bike started 1st kick but idling high. about 1/8th throttle equiv. its jetted 140/45 middle clip plenty of slack in the cables no air leaks (it was fine 30mins before i took the stockers off) i also did the b-12 trick and no change air screws are all the way in, idle screws are all the way out. if i pull the chokes 1/2 way, it idles nice and low like it should the plugs are new, and aren't telling me a damn thing yet im thinking the pilots are too lean. 48 or 50 seems to be what everyone else uses.

. he not talking aboutthe over flow brass tube hes talking about the brass tube coming down from the main body of the carb INTO the float bowl. ONLY the left side carb has it. its the choke siphon tube. NOW heres the thing..... the tube feeds down into that hole... both float bowls look the same but are not. if you look down into that hole on the LEFT carb there should be a tiny brass jet at the bottom. if not make sure your float bowls arent switched. IE. ONLY the left side carb has the tube going down, and only the left carb has the choke circut. now for the fuel leak. yeah the screw might be loose, but thats probably not the problem. you may have bent the floats. therefore while the float bowl is off they seem to function properly, but when you put the bowls back on it hangs on something in the bowl. take your time and put the bowl back on, but before putting the carb back on the bike turn in upside down and LISTEN. do it with the one thats not leaking and make sure they sound the same. either way, its probably your floats sticking. if youre sure theyre not then spray the hell out of the floats and valve with carb cleaner and blow them off with compressed air... worked on my buddys blaster. its probably not the drain screw, cause you probably didnt fuck with it when yo did your jetting. ill bet $ its the floats. my buddy just had this EXACT problem on his blaster which use the SAME carbs... 26mm mikunis

yeah i could be an air leak, or the floats/ jetting. normally in the airleaks ive seen, the bike will try to rev itself till it blows up. you could also have a slide hanging up. this could be from a dirty/ bent needle. if you havent solved the problem yet (i know this is WAY late) but id get a rebuild kit with new needle to be safe ya know???

yeah id say stuck float..... that was happening on my buddy's blaster. took the bowls off, sprayed some carb cleaner.... good as new

Yes the wires matter... If they're wrong I think it'll be trying to fire at the exact opposite time it should be. It IS possible its just flooded like a MOFO just not probible. Take the pipes off, turn off your fuel, remove your plugs, and just kick it and try blowing air in the cylinders to help evap. Some of the gas. Don't forget to dump it outta your pipes too. AND make sure you turn the motor so often.

Mosy likely no. Check ur spark, well go from there. It should be a consistent bright blue spark on both cylinders. If its running lean, which I don't think it is, it would revv itself up and wouldn't kill when u hit the kill switch. Start with the spark....

Honestly, if they're a site sponsor, they'll do a good job. So far In my dealings, F.A.S.T has been a pretty helpful group of fellas. I personally cannot speak for the rest, as I haven't dealt with them any, but always hear great things about all the site sponsors.

What, are you a roughneck?

Dude..... For fuck sake.... Check your reeds... That's MOST LIKELY what's wrong. I had the EXACT SAME problem... It was cracked reeds. Stock setting for the pilot air screw is 2 turn out. If you're talking bout air leaking at the cylinder/pipe joint, no it won't cause low compression. You're probably gonna need a new top end, but get the thing running first. When you take the carbs out, don't take them apart till you fix your reeds. And make sure you put the choke tube between the two carbs back in place. Also if/when you take apart ur carbs to clean them, do one, put it back together, THEN do the other one. This will help u keep from getting the parts switched up (which look the same, but are NOT always interchangeable. Good luck

EVERYONE that has used the OKO's LOVE them.... From what I've heard. Capable of 25-30 % more air/fuel flow than PWK's. Plus the guys that makew the OKO's are guys that worked for keihin for 17 years before they got laid off. Check out glamisdunerparts.com. Or call him 916-293-9873. The OKO's come with a jet kit for about 150. He also has the PWK's for 160 for the set

Ya I had that problem a while back.... It was my v force 2 reeds. Still ran... Like hell. Pull ur reeds out an actually LOOK at them.... I have pictures of what mine looked like on my profile...

Who is kevin, and where can I find him???

Is it possible you put the slides back into the wrong carbs? If you did then they would have to be turned 180* ie. If you put the slides into the wrong carbs the only way they can go in is backwards..... Which will keep it from starting. the 45* angled cut on the bottom of the slide should be on the filter side. Also is there a chance you got the plug wires backwards??? I'm not trying to degrade your intelligence or mechanical abilities, just simple mistakes that everyone makes. You're right though, all the pieces of the puzzle seem to be in place. Spark, compression, the only thing in question is the fuel. Wet spark plugsa don't mean a good stoich mixture of fuel and air....

Yeah it still runs.... Do me a favor please. I'm on my cell n can't use the shoutbox. Shot for AKheathen to check this post out please. Thx!

Yes that's what I'm talking about. The way they were was with the hole open, but the guy I bought it from fucked everything else he touched on the carb up, why not this right? Plus I could see an indentation on that plate from where it HAD blocked the hole

Okay when you pull the slide out and pull out the needle and look down inside the slide from the top, there is a hole that runs all the wal through. After you replace the needle and go to put the holder plate back on, it can be so it either DOES or DOES NOT cover that hole. The drawing in the clymer manual suggest that it DOES cover that hole. I cannot see a purpose to having that hole un-covered, but logic would suggest mikuni didn't put it there for no reason..... Question: HOLE THRU SLIDE.... Covered by the holder plate above the needle or not???? Any help would be awesome. You guys haven't let me down yet!!

Yeah umm.... Don't buy an ohmeter... Buy a tors eliminator kit. These are things that are crucial to having a dependable banshee. Those tors systems have SO many components that always go bad. I'm not sure how much an ohmeter costs... But you buy that, plus whatever is fucked up (assuming you actually do narrow it down and ONLY buy the right piece) you can easily have already bought the tors eliminator kit.... And NEVER have to worry about it screwing up again.. Which it will. The bike will still perform the same as before, so u don't have to worry about ur girlfriewnd killing herself on it anymore than you did before...

the ones i have on there have just been molested to hell and back. the guy i bought it from was an idiot. like i said he had the bowls on the wrong carbs AND the slides in the wrong carbs (which means they were backwards to clear the idle screw) i know a smaller carb will have a higher air velocity from the venturi effect. BUT i agree with posts ive read saying the stockers are a bitch to tune. as far as aftermarket stuff goes, anyone know the difference between PWK and PJ, and can we all agree that keihins are superior to mikunis. i just really cant wait to use the 26's and a trot-line weight!!

Yeah I think honestly ill probably go right in the middle and run 33s. Now what's the diff between PJ's and PWK's? And from what I read the stock 26 mikunis are kind of a beoch to get tuned... That being said when I scrap these, is keihin pretty much the way to go??? Also, what's the scoop on these +4 timing plates. I'm reading they're improving HP by 2-3? Would this be necessary on the set-up I'm wanting to run?

Ok the choke tube is on. I need to check out the plugs, but I'm really not sure what I'm looking at. Inside the crown they're black, the porcelian is dark brown, and they're wet (oily stuff) ill get them changed and see how they look..... Again though... Could it be the floats? The thing smokes quite a bit after start up. I just think its draining all the gas in the fuel line down into the reed cage/cylinder cause the floats are to high.