thrill-billy85

First off..... If your floats are set too high, what symptoms are you gonna see? Cause right now it takes about 10 kicks, then it fires right up. Once it starts and warms up it'll start real easy (one kick, no throttle) BUT if I wait 30 minutes or so, same thing, 10 kicks to fire. ADDITIONALLY there is a lot of black soot/oily shit dripping from the exhaust pipes. This all started happening after swapping the float bowls to the CORRECT carbs, and also the slides. Which nmeans they were both in there 180* backwards. A buddy of mine said I probably accidentally bent the float arms when I had the carbs off. This makes it fill up too much and leak fuel into the cylinder and those first 10 kicks are just to get the excess fuel out and the oily black soot is it all getting burned up in the exhaust. Also now when I'm riding and after a run thru the gears or powerband it'll sputter on the way back down to idle.... Which tells me jetting or just too much fuel (rich). What do yall think. Now to the fun stuff.... I'm trying to spend my tax return before I get it.... I wanna go with a stage 2 port either by herr jugs or FAST. Right now I have delta 2's and fmf fattys. .020 over. Hot rods crank with about 20 hrs on it. I have a cool head and 20 cc domes thatll go in it too. The thing I'm having problems with is what carb set-up to go with. I'm thinking 28mil flatside mikunis with billett intakes. But I've heard 33/34 keihins. From past exp I like keihins better. That being said I think they'll be too big for the port job I want (which would be stage 2 (herr or FAST). I really just want an easy to start reliable bike making about 50-60 hp. Any help would be good. I'm willing to spend 1-1.5K on the motor.... Carbs, intakes, port job, timing plate (???) MAYBE a set of T-5's..... Just like the sound.... Powder coated black FMF fattys need to go....

new? 512-673-2991

Im interested in the motor... seriously. email me or shoot me a text 512-673-2991 or aklein3185@yahoo.com

ok the 121 psi is with the stock head. the domes SHOULD be for a non-stroker motor.... which mine is stock stroke. still 121 seems kinda high for 3000 above sea level right?? i never comp tested the 20cc domes. i switched the float bowls like you said today and observed a few things: the bowls have like a hole for a brass siphon rod to go into (similar in size to the angled float bowl overflow tubes???) . first off only the left side carb had the brass siphon tube, the right did not. HOWEVER the bowl that was on the RIGHT SIDE had what APPEARED to be a small brass screw down at the bottom of that hole that the siphon tube from the main body of the carb goes down into. SO i switched the bowls (like you advised) so that the left side (choke side) carb (with the brass siphon tube going down) went into the bowl that APPEARED to have a small brass screw down inside the hole. put everything back together..... wouldnt start..... then put the kill switch to the ON position and it fired up...... and subsequent attempts thru the day also produced a start. so tomorrow i will see where we stand since itll be truly a cold start. lemme know if BOTH carbs are supposed to hae the brass siphon tube going down into he float bowl.... seems like maybe it should????

i used a dye grinder. its a pneumatic tool with a 4" cut off wheel. its easier to get a nice straight line with this. u can pick one up at harbor freight tools for $20. not to mention its SUCH a useful tool for MANY other things EXACTLY WHAT BRIAN 750 USED

ok first the mods: 99 man-shee tors eliminator pro-flow k&n v-force 2's fmf fattys no boost bottle .020 over hot rods crank 2900 elev 270 mains ?? pilots first issue. i bought a cool head with 20cc domes. put them on and i was struggling to get in the power band. (like i was in too high of a gear). took the cool head back off put the stock one back on and ran perfect. i was using 93 octane which as i understand is ok at this altitude. any ideas???? second and most important!!!!!! it SEEMS like a have a leaking seal?seat in the carb. basically its hard/impossible to start if i dont touch it for a few days. ill take the filter off and blow air thru the vent tubes (spews gas out of the carbs into airbox). after that i turn the gas back on and itll fire right up. now if i start it everyday it does fine, but skip a day, and im blowing the carbs out. NO i dont leave the gas on. compression is 121 on both sides. any ideas?????

I know the factory setting on the pilot screws is 2 turns out. I've got the TORS eliminator with moose caps and idle screws..... What's a good starting point for the idle screws. I'm .020 over, v-force2's, fmf fattys, 3000 elev, #270 mains, ??? Pillots, needle all the way down

wheres a goodstarting point for the idle screws as i have tuned them to hell and back with no positive results.....

ok i had the cracked intake boots. bike was revvng out. doesnt rev out anymore with the new boots though it kinda seemed lke t wanted to once. this fucking thing still wont start wthout carb cleaner. when it does i gotta juke the shit out of the throttle to keep it running. if i dont it dies. i rode it a bit and after about 1/3rd throttle it fucking flies, but as soon as i stop it dies. spark is good. same jetting as before when it ran well. heres what it doesnt have:::::::: the choke tube???? there used to be a tube runnung between the carbs. in my haste to get the boots on it, t fell off and i forgot about it....... is this the damn problem??? im gonna try it tomorrow, but untl then any advice. this thing is making me sick not being able to ride it

ive never heard water will do that... good to know though. yeah it was wierd cause at first it's rev itself. then after a while it would only do i if i gave it a little bit of throttle. makes sense that it would get better after running it a bit (which it did) so i guess its a combe of water in the carbs and cracked boots. i KNOW it was sucking air thru the cracks cause i had it running and gave just a squirt of carb cleaner on the cracks and it revved up. what really sucks is when it first started doing it i kept messing wth idle screws and air fuel screws...... guess ill just put em at stock settings and go from there when te boots finally get here. they FINALLY shipped today UPS ground NC to KS..... ill be looking for them next month sometime. will the noss heads keep it thing cool enough or should i also go with a few in-line coolers and cv4 hoses. i know the HOSES dont do shit cept' look pretty... its still got the factory airbox with, i guess a PRO-FLOW (????) aluminium adapter plate for the k&n filter

JEREMY: im thinking maybe the power washer hitting the shit-ass boost bottle made two already small cracks..... much much bigger, and kept me from being able to get the damn thing started for a few days (as water mustve got in too). its really te only thing i can think would have made the cracks big enough to cause this problem, cause right before i washed it, it was running ok..... not great..... ok. idled fine, but didnt have the power other shees ive ridden had. AND it was the first time since id gotten the thing id really taken it out and really RODE IT. anyways, thanks again for the advice. ive atually got the stock cross-over tube, so its def. going back on there when the new manifolds come in. ALSO.... im not sure what the pilot jets are. i know the mains are 270 with the needle all the way down. im thinking if im still not happy with things after the 20cc domes, ill go down to a 250 and 3rd clip pos. BUT maybe itll be perfect.... who the hell knows..... ahh the beauty of 2 strokes...

im at 2891 msl here in sw kansas. the top and bottom end have an alleged 10 hrs on the rebuild and bore. i ride in the arkansas river bed.... its all sand and little dunes and a few trails. And o long weekends ill be going to wynoka (little sahara). the tip in the compression tester was a stubby 13mil (maybe 14 cant remember) but its the same length as the NGK B8ES. maybe a touch shorter. shrade tip????? not sure what that is but its got the same thing as in a cars valve stem. i dont wanna get it too damn high comp, just enough so i know its up a little when i kick it not sure if it makes a diff for 2stroke 4-wheelers, (i does for airplanes) but the climate is very dry (hEnce riding in the arkansas river BED..... which, the first time i ever saw that river was in colorado while we were whitewater rafting down it) also, the new intake boots will fix the revving and pinging issue??? i guess ill know when they get here...

haha im balls-deep in fixing my cracked intake boot problem that i got from my boost bottle...... it wanted to blow itself up but i wouldnt let it the comp test i did tested at 135 psi.... is that too low???? ive got the stock equalizer tube though... thats going back on as soon as i get the new boots....

ive got a 99 man-shee. bored .020 over stock size hot rods crank tors eliminator v-force 2's fmf fatty pipes k&n filter vito's boost bottle 270 mains **135 psi (is that too low with stock head??) id like to bump the compression a bit, but still be able to run 93 if i HAD to. really im ater the improved cooling. ALSO.... this bike seemed a little hesitant getting up into the powerband..... BUT i also found out after riding that BOTH intake manifolds had cracks around 180* where the boost bottle went in..... hence it revving itself to the fuckin moon and not wanting to kill unless i pulled the choke and pinned the throttle (or putting it in gear and dumping the clutch) i havent gotten the new boots in yet, but im sure itll fix my problem wth that (which mustve happened when i was power-washing it after the ride.) MY QUESTION IS: assuming the new intake manifolds correct the problem of it revving itself out, and detonating, i wanna put a cool head on, to up the compression a TAD. what size domes should i use??? i basically want it maybe two steps higher than stock.

yamahaman126: ok, so youre thinking its a carb problem, not an electrical problem? that makes sense and definately hope youre right. it just seems strange, cause it progressively getting better, which would steer us away from elec. and towards a burred up needle from careless handling. this would also attest to it being hard as hell to start, especially when there are only 10hrs on the "alledged" rebuild. the guy i bought it from (may have been 20 years old) had also been the guy tuning the carbs, and replacing jets etc. he said he has a #270 main jet in it...... seems kinda big right??? its only bored .020 over... if its bored out at all... i think the kid thought.... "bigger jets, more power". hopefully one day he'll learn about proper air/fuel ratios

okay.... i went riding the other day and it felt like my throttle got stuck once, but the thumb throttle wasnt the part sticking. didnt think anything of it, went to the car wash after and the thing wouldnt start after i washed it. in my multiple failed attempts to start it, i flooded the shit out of it. took the pipes of and drained them and got it to start (with the help of starting fluid... bad i know, but i was desperate) this thing has the throttle position sensor eliminator caps on the carbs. the switch on the thumb throttle is dis-connected.(if i re-connect it i have to give it enough throttle to de-compress the switch for it to start and idle) i put a new clutch lever assy. and just took the parking brake rev limiter switch off. after getting the thing to start it wouldnt rev. it would idle fine. so i pushed on the parking brake switch and the effin thing revs out with no throttle. the kill switch wont even kill it when this is happening. what will kill it while its revving out is when i open the throttle (i guess it floods it or leans it out too much?). after starting it a few more times this quits happening until IIII hit the throttle a little bit...... then itll keep revving up and ill have to hit the throttle again and itll kill it. after dickin with it more(starting it, trying to rev it, messing with the fuel/air screws, idle, etc) itll start (once again, with i tiny bit of ether) and idle fine (maybe a little high) and rev okay, and come back down, but it takes a while longer than it should...... any ideas?????