thrill-billy85

ok pm me when you got everything squared away, and well get some pics up. its difficult explaining where stuff is...

so you raced a guy with "82 HP" and beat him... so now you have 70? no way jose. i think by "bolt ons" he meant "things that actually ADD power" the above mentioned internals really dont... they only make a great canvas for a motor that actually has 70 hp..... best choice with the stuff youve got listed: dune port... i like jeff at FAST racing... great guy to deal with. and youll be in the 70 hp range! its 350 for the porting... after that NOBODY will be able to keep up on their "fuel injected million cc thumper pos" good luck!

Ok so when its time to post the finished thread, do I just make a completely new one? I'm not seeing any way to edit the original....

agreed!

ha ha im not a fan of the fmfs either. ive heard the 916's are the coolest sounding pipes out there... honestly the silencer is pretty cool too. thats probably what id get too if i were building a trail/bowl bike. anyways good luck with putting everything back together!

hey man i sent you a PM yesterday about all this too. like i said.... i have a spare set of nice stock carbs that i polished the bolws on. theyre exceptionally clean. i also have a mint set of fmf fatties powder coated black. (theyre pretty similar to the pro-circuts IMO). if you wanna trade this stuff for your pipes then great! mine was really built more for low-end, but im building a duner as we speak, and cannot use the fmf's, or stock carbs. if the pipes are in good enough shape ill even throw in a sat of v-force 2 cages. (one side needs new petals. this way youll have your exhaust, carbs, and reeds for your old in-frame drag pipes. then... sell your 34's on here. theyll go quick. but dont go and trade some a-hole straight up, your carbs for his.... the ones you have are worth way more.

yeah maybe some pics of what the choke tube is..... when mine didnt exist, i didnt know what i was looking for.... ha ha it was a situation like "how do i check to see if something isnt there, if i dont know its supposed to be there in the first place? lets get this thing squared away, like i was saying in the shoutbox the other night, i think it would help out alo of people. hell they just might fix whats wrong in the first place

OK I have noticed that ALMOST everyday there is a new post about starting troubles. MOST of the time the first 5-10 replies are usually the same: What's your jetting?, altitude?, mods?, do you have fuel in it?, is the switch and key in the on position?, is the choke tube installed?, bowls on the right carbs? etc. etc. The purpose of this post is a checklist to go through, and possibly identify the problem right off the bat. We were all new to Banshee's at one point, and have all had the same problems at one point. Let's make kind of a one-stop trouble shooting page for the usual hard to start, and other problems associated with the banshee. Im somewhat new to banshees myself, but not to 2-strokes, so any helpful input is welcome. Im definitely NOT trying to demean anybody's intelligence by any means... this is just stuff that can be easily overlooked. KEY AND KILL-SWITCH IN THE ON POSTION PLENTY OF GOOD CLEAN FUEL GOOD SPARK/CLEAN PLUGS/GOOD PLUG CHOP/CORRECTLY GAPED CLEAN CARBS CLEAN FILTER CHOKE TUBE INSTALLED DID YOU TAKE APART THE CARBS, AND IF SO, ARE YOU SURE YOU GOT THE BOWLS BACK ON THE CORRECT CARBS HAVE GOOD COMPRESSION HAVE AN AIR-LEAK (there are instructions on how to build your own, and i also sell them if you dont wanna make your own) NORMALLY MOST NEW BANSHEE OWNERS ARE STILL UNDER THE BOOST BOTTLE SPELL (has your boost bottle cracked your intakes YET?) CARBS SYNCED Once you check these essential trouble shooting items included in your first post should be items to include MODS JETTING ELEVATION WHEN DID YOUR ISSUES START RESULTS OF THE ABOVE CHECKLIST (CAUSE IF NOT, THEY ARE THE FIRST QUESTIONS WE'LL ASK) RESULTS OF PLUG CHOP Surely i forgot some items, feel free to post any additional items.

i sell leak down testers for $35 shipped to your door. pm me if you dont wanna dick with it, and get one you know will work...

well yeah.... but the good news is, its not gonna break from being too strong. i think the extra plate MIGHT have weighed a pound... ill make up for the two pounds gained somwhere else for sure. like my aluminum airbox vs. the heavy plastic piece of junk. also i really do not think it TOO over-built, if you remember the new shock mounting point is now 2.25 inches further in. now if you consider that to be the new fulcrum point (which it most definately is) then the added leverage ON that fulcrum is almost exponential. i dont know the formula for it all, but stands to reason that there is ALOT more added strain, with the added length of the arms PAST the shock mount point (width) that being said... i dont think its over-built (very much, if at all)... and once again... things break when theyre under-built, not over built.... as for the weight... its onlt a couple pounds on a dune/play bike... not a dragger. finished results:

ok so heres my 450 arm install...... its included in my build post, and includes MY solution to the lost ride hieght, and suspension travel>>>> also if someone wants me to do this mod for them its $75. you pay shipping. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138011&st=15 heres a pic of everything before i weld it all up. i basically move the shock mount back in about 2" to return close to stock ride height, and full travel of the arms

and yes, obviously theyre stock spindles....

does anyone know the size of the tapered reamer bit needed to get the yfz450 tie rod ends to fit the holes in the spindles and steering stem... and where to get one. i know its about 45bucks, and have seen it somwhere on here..... just cant find it now

[ actually, since were getting technical... as i recall, (could be wrong) the clymer manual (though obviously not published by yamaha) says to use the flywheel holding tool.... which is made by yamaha (any many others) but the point is, if YAMAHA makes a tool to hold the flywheel, one could conclude that according to the manufacturer, THATS the way to do it. either way, if the guy doesnt wanna but a $250 battery powered impact, this is an inexpensive, and very effective alternative... cut the guy some fucking slack

thats the EXACT guage i put in the ones i sell. and YES they work, and work very well, but you have some modifacations to make first. the guages have a ball check valve in them, meaning once the ar goes INTO the guage, it doesnt come back out... which means i would NOT indicate a leak-down, if indeed there was a leak. to remove the ball check from the guage you simply unscrew the end cap, and dump all the little springs, o-rings, and brass peice out. honestly, a good way to make sure youve done it right is to perform your leak-down test, but instead of releasing the pressure via the pressure release button, remove a spark plug, and OBSERVE the guage falling. to answer your other questions.... if you use a flathead srcewdriver to remove the ball-check valve... youre doing it wrong. it unscrews easily with your fingers. and the pressure realease button will still work afterwards to bleed the 6psi off your seals quickly after waiting the 6 minutes.... hope it helps... i can provide pics if needed. or sell these for 35 shipped to your door.

X2 on the slides wearing quickly.... mine were when i got them (fleabay). SO easy to tune though. great carbs! thats about what i paid for mine BTW. BUY THEM! check out the little cresent worn grooves to the right of the needle at the bottom

x2 on the 27.5 pilots x2 on the 4th clip x2 on calling jeff at F.A.S.T.

ok first we need the basics.... since you didnt provide those, im going to assume your shee is bone stock.... TORS removal kit Toomey T-5 pipes v-force reeds (2's or 3's) k&n airfilter DONT BUY A BOOST BOTTLE!! they dont do shit except crack your intakes, resulting in a lean mixture, melting down your motor now you have about $500 left after the above mods (maybe more) 2 choices: A) have your stock crank trued and welded (to support future mods and ensure your crank wont scatter) +2+1 A-Arms.... really depends on what type of riding youre going to be doing (which you also didnt tell us) woods, and trails id get the a-arms. (wicked atv has great deals, and is a site sponsor) or if you ride dunes go ahead and get the crank welded.

yeah every time i go ride and someone wants to look at my bike, they always ask... "hey man wheres your boost bottle?"..... uhh in the trash can.... with the old rubber boots that were cracked. then one guy informed me "they add about 10 horsepower"... ha ha He even dynoed hi old one with and without. he said stock (without it) only had 55 hoprsepower (the only other mods he had were pro-circut pipes), but with his fmf boost bottle he said he got 65 horsepower.... at that point i called him a liar, put my shit in gear and took off. i want a stock banshee with a boost bottle that dyno's at 65hp!!!!!!!!!!!! ha ha

i think you got the float bowls on the wrong carbs. had the same problem myself. they look the same but are not. the one that is supposed to be on the left carb is the only one with the choke circut. lemme know if youre un-familiar, and ill explain in further detail.

Just seeing if anyone would be interested in a spring time ride at "little sahara" in waynoka ok? ive never been, but have friends that go wuite a bit. looks like a pretty cool place to ride. lemme know!

and another thing.... all this "stage IV" crap doesn't tell us anything. what BRAND/MODEL pipes tec...

first off...... youre not making anywhere NEAR the aforementioned HP numbers. maybe somwhere in the 40 hp range... MAYBE getting close to 50..... MAYBE. you need to run a 32:1 gas to oil ratio. With stock stroke and 20cc domes, id say youre getting close to the 155psi range. with stock carbs id start at at least a 310 main, and work your way down. if its cold there then maybe think about starting with a 320 main jet. remember that a motor running rich, isnt going to sieze up or melt down. start big, and work your way down. your pilot jet shoud be a 27.5. you need to get a compression tester and test your compression yourself.... not just ask people what it should be, and go from there. and you need to be running AT LEAST premium pump gas... to make more power.... porting..... you can use your stock carbs for up to about 65 HP. which you are nowhere near. so port first, then get bigger carbs