Jereme6655

Coup.....I totally forgot by that point that the discussion was also about cutting the windows.....so when I read the response I was thinking he was making a comment about pre-lubing the wrist bearings with oil and it's relation to being able to make more power from pre-lubed bearings. Sorry coup....my bad. And i would do the research....but would it even be worth researching whether pre lubed wrist pin bearings make more power? Hahaha.....all my bad.....I'll take the hit. Sorry coup

/\ /\ /\.........um.....what?

You have to call our sponsors......this is not a bad thing as they can take your order and give you advice about the parts your purchasing. They will also let you pick their Braun for what is the best and what works well. I personally use Jeff at FAST Racing.

Why do you say your old banshee was setup for drag racing when it had T5 pipes?

As for the banshee.....I don't know the problem... Nick.....good god that car sounds absolutely horrible with those sequential gears......damn....

Not sure of what battery people are running but you can float the ground on the stator and run a voltage regulator to charge the battery from the banshees wiring systems.

I also like to use copper gasket spray (I believe it's by permatex) on all the gaskets. While it may not make them easy to remove and reuse (if your one of the reuse guys) but it helps to seal any SLIGHT irregularities in the mating surfaces. Is more of a precautionary type stuff than anything else.... Also.....most know this and do this but you should lube all your rotating assembly parts with either 2stroke oil or assembly lube. And also soak new clutch fibers in the fluid your going to run before install......they swell very slightly.

Oh I definitely agree coup.....but for the guy who keeps building a motor with air leaks.....I bet eventually it will chew up some bearings pretty good....if he's continuing to use the same crank....

The crank and gears are SEPERATED in different compartments on the banshee cases. The trans fluid only goes between the gears and the clutch pack. The crank is lubed via the 2stroke oil that is mixed in with your gas. That's one of the reasons you need to be very cautious about air leaks on these bikes.....because if they lean out then they can burn up the bearings on the crank.

Haha he meant if your were going from an air box to pod filters

I put an o ring on top of the kick shaft AND I put a small one under the spring and ball in the kicker. Hasn't rattled since and now it doesn't flop open while riding.... It stays right where it's supposed to unless you move it

you know there are these things that are on the carb bowls called drains......they're only put on there to you know....drain the bowls. so to help save a motor why not just shut the fuel off and use a screwdriver to open the drain screw....seems like the engineers may have done that for a reason huh?

Do NOT shut the fuel off and let it run itself out. You WILL cause premature wear on your motor as you are literally starving it on oil. It also gets worse as a 2stroke will naturally rev faster when starved....causing it to spin faster while starving on oil...

Air filter and +4 timing. Also you should upgrade the suspension.....the faster you can go over the bumps equals the faster you are overall. Also make sure you do maintenance and use quality products in your bike. It will pay off in the long run. And I would also make sure the jetting is correct and that there are no air leaks.

At the 3 o'clock position and the 5oclock position it appears that there may be some metal that is smashed flat on the piston just around the carbon ring on the piston......is it metal or is it just an illusion? I'm wondering if something did the cha-cha stomp all over your pistons..... Maybe a bearing or a piece of a broken skirt?

No no....they are good for ice drags.....you just NEED snowmobile studs in order to hook up right off the line. The gearing down Is gonna make it harder to launch without spinning the tires but it will also get you to run down your buddy fast too"

I love mine. I use it to tune my riding style so that know how to ride my bike to get the temp down when needed. I also like how you can choose the colored lights as shift indicators (set by you based on your liking of rpm) other than that your not going to look at much on the screen....especially in 6th. I you are looking alot (no offense) your a liability to our sport and a danger to everyone around you. Last thing we need is someone going 70 mph on a quad looking down...

Ohhhh.....your trying to do drag races ICE....you never mentioned that you were on ice in the first post hahaha. Yes you buddy is getting his traction. From being 310 lbs...and cause his machine is also heavier. Do you have studs as in atv studs (the type that screw in) or are you using more of an ice pick style stud like snowmobiles run. Here whenever the lake freezes we actually have a drag strip plowed off of the ice.....it's gotten so big recently that the cost guard actually checks the ice to ensure it is thick enough. Hell I've seen probably 200 trucks with sled trailers out there all drag racing. But when banshees come up to the line they are ALWAYS running snowmobile studs.....and quite a few of them in each rear tire...

And if it says stage IV then that would be a Trinity head...

Did the previous owner remove the overflow bottle from under the seat? And are you filling the radiator to the top? If you are they will puke out coolant to the correct level in the radiator...

Have you tried launching in 2nd? You should be walking all over your buddies bike. What about air pressure in your tires.....too much will cause you tires to spin quite easily

I wouldn't say I would toss away the idea of buying a certain banshee because of compression......think of it as a way to sweeten the deal for you guys......."oh you were asking 2k for it but it definitely needs a top end (numbers confirm it)....a shop is gonna charge at least $600.....so how about 1400 cash." it's not your problem that you guys can do the rebuild for approximately $300 and when you do it yourself then YOU know exactly the quality of work and exactly what work has been done to it.

Jeno.... Why do you need a new crank? True there are pieces down in the cases however that does not mean gotta replace the crank. It could also be that the pieces of piston got puked up and into the pipe......when you take them off try and dump them out and see if anything comes out. As far as bore vs just a hone.....you gotta remember that these are two stroke motors that run 9-10k rpm....whole lot more than the 4 strokes. And who knows how long the bike has gone without a top end rebuild....and the cylinders could be egg shaped in the middle from natural wear. I send them to a site sponsor on here (I use Jeff at FAST racing) and usually it is a total of about 300 for all gaskets bore/hone and pistons. Make sure that any shop you deal with KNOWS THIER 2 STROKES! If they look at you funny when asked if they chamfer the ports after they bore.....RUN....or else yOur gonna wind up doing this all over again. With stroker cranks on these motors we have a couple of options.....you could go with a spacer (the not recommended way) which will make the clearance by going under the jugs but it will alter the port timings. The recommended way is to get a cool head and run specific 4mil domes. A sponsor will be able to get these for you. A cool head is a aftermarket head that has interchangeable domes. You can get smaller cc domes to raise your compression to make more power (but will also require more octane fuel) or you can get larger domes to keep you away from the need for race fuel. You can also get domes cut for specific applications such as longer rods or stroker motors or odd squish clearances. Cases need to be trenches to fit a +7mil or greater crank....although even with a +4 crank you should still check the rotation while the case is split to ensure that the crank doesn't JUST barely touch.....which has happened before but is extremely rare. When sealing the cases back together you are going to want to use either yamabond or 1211. They are a sealant that are not effected by gas/oil and also stay flexible even after dry......other stuff will harden up and eventually will create an air leak which will lean your bike out and burn holes in your pistons and lean out the lube on your crank bearings. Things to mod while your doing all this would be the shift shaft and the shift star. The shaft mod allows the shifter to actually lift a little higher so you don't mistakenly try and fold your foot off on the extremely short throw that the banshee is designed with. The shift star mod makes the trans shift easier as it then requires less force to shift gears.....this will definitely make it easier to find N....as these bikes can be a bitch to get into N. Make sure that you use a flywheel puller on the flywheel.....NOT A JAW STYLE PULLER as it will damage the flywheel. Which means a new tool to your box.....and yes you need it.....it's only $13. If you have any more questions then just feel free to ask.... Jereme

That's a normal place to see broken on the cases if the chain brakes. Called chain whack. You have to watch out for air leaks at the crack there. It will show with a leak down test....a lot of people will use JB weld to plug the leak if they are going to be cheap about it

Ask him if he noss Tyler Clark....and if he's willing to race him up a hill. For titles. And then I want to see the video of him crying when he gets his ass handed to him....