Jereme6655

I have another question for you....you said snow in your first post.... did you change your jetting for winter riding? or were you wide open throttle with the same jetting that you use during summer?

if you look at the boost bottle nubs that go into the intakes there are two black pinch style clamps that hold the rubber tight to the boost bottle. Then you have to wiggle that bottle like a bastard to get it out. You can get the TORS eliminator kit from F.A.S.T. Racing (one of our site sponsors) or you can get them online at a lot of atv style aftermarket shops. They come new carb caps, a new cable, a drill bit, a tap and idle screws. You have to cut down a specific nub on each carb and then drill out the nub, then tap it for the idle screw. Its really not that difficult.....and usually the kit is around $45-50

1) get used to riding 2 strokes......you have to rev a 2 stroker a lot harder on the low end than a 4stroke. its the nature of the beast. also your need to go up to a 27.5 pilot jet.....this will help with low end on the fmf fatties. and clean your carbs.

also you should try and relieve the weight off the suspension and get the tires off of the ground depending on how long your going to keep it in storage.

I see a few problems with your bike that I can point out Remove the boost bottle and put a stock cross over tube in before it cracks your intakes and lean your motor out. Get a Tors elimination kit so you can get rid of the headaches of faulty systems and make it easier to wrench on your bike. Move the cables off of the pipe before they melt through. Check your choke tube that connects the two carbs. it appears to not be hooked up correctly. Also you need a gas tank bolt and you can take the zip tie off your fuel line to your second carb.....and you can slide down the silver pinch clamp to use on the fuel line.

well theres more than just radiator size that plays a role in a bike staying cool/overheating. Too lean of jetting, or too rich of jetting can cause the motor to overheat also. Along with slow speeds. A lot of tight trail riders will be riding slow/technical areas and notice their bike starting to run hot and will find a road and open the bike up to get air movement through the radiator. You have to remember, these bikes may be liquid cooled....but they do not have fans to help draw the heat out of the radiator. Riding style also depicts the temperature your bike runs. Lugging the bike will cause the motor to build unwanted heat....ive actually seen 5-10* difference by downshifting and running the motor a little quicker.

/\ x2 I used to sync the carbs with using the eye sight technique. Then I got the sync tool from Jeff to make syncing all the toys easier on our lives (7 snowmobiles and 2 banshees up north). Talk about being way off and thinking it was close......wow. Either way it makes everything from setting the idle to mid throttle super super easy and exact.

that's what I was thinking cam....... only reason I keep coming back up to a possible lean connection is he said it rev hangs after blipping the throttle....

i haven't seen a kit for rebuilding a front suspension......but I would get in touch with mattscs. he is our suspension sponsor and can probably tell you what should/doesn't need to be replaced. also I believe a decent amount of our site sponsors carry most of the parts...

you can also do the redneck ratchet strap routine. wrap ratchet strap all the way around time and hook it to itself and give it a few crank to squeeze it down on the tire. put some air in the tire........take ratchet strap off and fill tire.

just pulled my buddies bike apart the other day because his dropped a cylinder. His piston looked ALMOST identical....however you could blatantly see that it was from wear. his pistons got so sloppy that the piston managed to cock itself a little and snap the crown on the exhaust port of the cylinder.

Im not trying to be an evil guy here to you. We just get annoyed on this site when we get repetitive questions asked constantly. Most of us here have learned by trial and error. We have no problem helping someone out....but we prefer that people at least TRY and do some leg work first. prime example. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=162388 asked less than a month ago.

yea...im the fucking douche...... try researching stuff next time. enough said.

My motor blew up after about 20hours on it after jeff ported it. Guess what....it was MY fault. I hate seeing when people just jump the gun on shit....."my motor blew up and its my builders fault.....but I haven't even looked at my motor to see why it failed." I mean fuck....its not THAT hard to look into what caused the problem with your motor. Mine dropped a cylinder.....we towed me home. I looked at the facts.....I had it opened up hard in 5th and hit a trench that went across the road from a dirt bike trail. about a mile down the road she started runnin odd and dropped a cylinder. Then I pulled the seat off......oh look the 2-1 air filter fell off one of my carbs. So I looked at the facts.....I was pushing my bike hard, and I hit the bump and I dropped the hammer again after I hit the bump. it was my fault I didn't stop to check my filter came off.....but to be honest......I was happy cause of how my new works shocks had soaked up the bump. So guess what.....I called Jeff and told him that I blew up my motor and that I figured out what happened....so i told him to look for my jugs in the mail. He was bummed from talking to me that my motor popped.....but after all.....it was my fault. Then i called Matt.......ask him he probably remember. He thought i was calling to say there was a problem after he rebuilt my works shocks.......I told him my motor was done for and I was still thanking him for how the shocks felt. He said its VERY rare that he has customers let him know that the shocks work great.....he said usually the good people keep their mouth shut and the only ones who mouth up are the ones who have a bitch and think they deserve something.

+4 is where you'll want that timing at. To double check though shouldn't you be asking jeff what he recommends? just having him bore/hone the jugs? man o man......I can't even remember the power that stock jugs with stock stroke felt like.........you may want to just pony up and have him port em out while they're off the bike and in his hands......you'll thank me later after it comes up on the powerband.

FIRST OFF.....THAT'S AWESOME. second.....you wouldn't catch me within 300yards of that fucker. That thing has got to be SO out of control that its scary.

not to be a dick.....but fuck man....how many times are you going to ask the same question?? you've asked in here and made 2 separate threads with asking the same damn question. Fuck man your on your way to getting bashed by a whole lot of a guys on here....

there's 2 that I can think of on here that can cut your tranny camatv sheerider1026 Im not sure if jeff does the trans mods or not......if you find out please let me know. I eventually plan on stepping up to a serval and would rather have all the stuff prepped and in my hands for assembly all at once.....not start and then have to stop and send more stuff out. Jereme

well.....considering there is only the crank and trans that are inside the lower cases.......then yes I guess youd be getting your hands into the whole lower end. on a side note......you CAN go from a 4mil to a stock stroke and have it run decent if it has the spacer plate to adjust the port timings for the 4mil crank. if you had the cylinders ported to match the 4mil......it will still run.....just like a pos

That's what we've been telling you from the beginning. The banshee trans has a problem with finding a false neutral (which is exactly what you described) and we told you the solution. Now its time for you to do the rest......split your cases and send it out.

360 is a shit ton of mainjet for a slightly modded bike.....have you done a leakdown on the motor since you replaced the intake rubber? do the leakdown. make sure your choke tube is good. sync your carbs..........respond.

they run without those in place.....if I remember correctly I believe it was an anti splash or anti foaming device....

it probably will RUN........just run like dog shit or be a total pain in the ass to get up into the revs. UNLESS......the guy was running a spacer plate for the 4mil crank and was saying it was ported.

/\ x2 Also there are other things to think of......such as spark arrestors. Shearer pipes (as far as I know) do not have approved sparkies made for them so you may wind up with a ticket if you get caught. I do not know if another companies sparkies will mount up with a little modification or hillbilly ingenuity. But like mentioned....you can change to almost any pipe, you will however have to also change your jetting when you change to a different pipe. Rule of thumb...anything that makes your bike breathe easier (intake OR exhaust) requires AT LEAST a check of the jetting (ie plug chop) if not a change of jets. But personally I wont change a set of pipes just because I believe one pipe SOUNDS better than another. However if it performs better.....well then there may be a change in the future. Jereme

4mil stroked crank is the largest you can fit in the cases without having them trenched. your at your absolute limit with bores.....I hope you didn't get it bored out that far just to try and gain power.....4 strokes can do that.....for 2 strokes you never waste your bore. at this point your too far gone on your cylinders to port them as it would be worthless. and good luck trying to sell those cylinders, they're junk now that they're bored that far. going with a 4mil stock cylinder........figure 450ish for a crank, 300-350ish for port work, gaskets 25, seals 35ish, pistons $200ish.....get the idea? going to a cub is going to be 2k+ easily