Jereme6655

Honestly, I suggest calling a sponsor like Jeff at FAST. He did my motor porting. i am 250 and ride woods with my bike. So I told him exactly what I was looking for and how I ride. Mostly 3-5th gear, occasionally 2nd in real tight stuff. Occasionally need to fuel up on trail (only in extreme circumstances such as getting lost) so pump fuel was a must. Most places here have 93. Then I told him what my bike already had. from there he recommended things and I went with it. Sent him my cylinders and he got to work. I reassembled it myself taking my time and doing things right. It’s been over 8 years and it’s seen some seriously high rpm’s….and it’s still together running harder than ever.

Vito’s used to be so so parts. Not top of the line, but not bad. Then ‘ole rattle can Ray bought them out. Pretty sure it’d be better to sign your soul over to the devil. The guy is a piece of work to say the least. Most of the site sponsors here can either get you what you want, or get you pointed in the right direction. Either way, if it starts running better when you give it some choke, that is an indication that it is getting too little fuel to run. Your carbs may be dirty, or you may have a large air leak in the motor. If cleaning the carbs don’t work, look up how to do a leakdown test. That alone will give you peace of mind And save you money on parts.

Could be a stuck float. But you also say that the fuel tank is being “compressed”….. which is a real odd one. I would first pull the fuel line off and see if it supplies good flow….. both with AND without the fuel tank cap screwed on. Also if the fuel hose is not fuel rated, it could be delaminating inside and blocking off flow. I’ve never seen a banshee do it, but I guess there’s a VERY small chance you could be vapor locking the fuel line also….

Well you would have to l look into whether the lighted whips can run on A/C voltage….. my guess is that they do not. Which means to do it, you either have to carry a battery with you and recharge it at some point of a weekend, or do a dc conversion and wire a battery into the system…..

What does the other cylinder show with your compression tester? What modifications are done to the motor? Lookup how to build a leakdown tester and check it before you take anything off the motor. Then report back. What fuel and oil are you running?

Don’t be worried about pulling the head, if it has an aftermarket head there is almost a guarantee it is using o-ring style gaskets….. which are reusable as long as not damaged. Most builders who make the domes usually mark the dome size on them. Either way, you need to pop the head off to verify the domes/rebuild it if it’s tired. but depending on a few other factors, I will say 140 is low for 110. Shit I was kicking over 150 on 93pump fuel when my motor was fresh.

Have you done a leak down test on the cylinders? Does it idle better with the choke on vs off? What were your compression numbers?

Also remember that if your carb is plugged up by junk or varnished fuel, it is leaning the fuel out. And depending who/how it was jetted, it could be detrimental to it. Say if the previous owner had it jetted on the very lean side, then you’re leaning it out more……..you’re gonna learn quick to rebuild a top end too…

Tors still on the carbs tops? 330 does sound really big if it is stock porting. And a 30 pilot sounds kind of large too….. that being said it also depends on your weather? what temp is the outside air currently where you’re at?

If you’ve Had to refill it a couple of times (you’re obviously losing it) and if it’s not dripping from the gasket…..then I’d say it’s like a 95%+ chance it’s a crank seal that is bad. leak down test that thing and find the problem before you blow it up! -also…..while doing the leak down test…..soapy water in a spray bottle is your friend. You will find the SMALLEST of leaks. I’d actually recommend having the clutch cover completely off when testing so you have complete access to the crank seal to spray with soapy water…..

Like 375 said…did you soak your fibers in trans fluid before installing? I doubt they would suck up a ton, but possibly noticeable. There is another possibility….. And that is your crank seal on the clutch side has finally shit the bed. When they go, “usually” they will suck trans fluid into the cases and cause your bike to start to run like crap…usually…. Depending how bad the leak is. The other way is it IS possibly for your case to be pressurizing your clutch cover, while the bike is running, causing it to push the fluids out while you’re riding. Either way, a leakdown test of the engine will show if it is the seal……just make sure when you do the leak down, that you remove the dip stick to ensure it is venting (if the seal is bad) while you’re performing the leak down test. Remember that A LOT of problems with banshee powertrains can be found with a leakdown tester….then you KNOW the problem before having to guess at the problem…..

Ac and led lights do not play well….they “will” run for a little bit, but they will die WAY premature. I don’t even know if the trail tech will run on ac voltage. For my trail tech I just ran a power wire down to under the seat and then joined 2-9v batteries together to power the trail tech. You’d be amazed how long 2-9v batteries will run it. i only run stock headlights you could “float” your ground to get dc voltage, I l ow some have…:but I don’t know how much power the stator can make in dc…..search on here or google “dc conversion bansheehq” and you’ll find answers

Go on Google and type “leak down tester bansheehq” the first link will send you here to a write up on how to build the tool to do it. It will cost around $25-30 or so…. But it will be an invaluable tool that you should use just after assembling a banshee motor or before disassembling after a failure. there are parts of these motors that you can’t get spray to like you did looking for an air leak. the key for doing these tests is to pressurize the engine to 6psi (no more or you’ll push seals out) and watch your pressure to see if it drops. What you NEED is for the engine to drop NO LESS than 1psi per minute. If it drops faster than that, you will be creating a lean condition and can have a lean runaway like you are experiencing. Dish soap mixed in with water will show you where the motor is leaking…..

You’re about to find out what catastrophic engine failure is if you continue. Those missing bottoms of the skirts are a definite need to pull the motor, split the cases and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Not to mention check the lower end of the motor. And don’t forget to dump out the exhaust when you remove it……last thing you want is chunks of the piston that are in the exhaust making their way back into the engine….

Do a proper leak down test to check for an air leak first. Then report back.

Man….I was out of the loop for a few years. Rattle can started copying and selling under chariots name?!? The fuck?!?

Jeff at FAST gets my vote. You tell him what you’re looking for and he will ask questions from his YEARS in the industry wrenching and modifying mostly banshees. Then he will give you his opinion on what he believes you’re looking for……then he will go to extremes to deliver what you two agree upon. THEN….he will provide customer support like no other….

Absolutely right about being able to port a banshee motor….I was referring to your comment about the machine/tuning shop that “got my heads port and polished..” you can port a banshee motor….but it’s the cylinders that ported…I’ve got mine ported from Jeff at F.A.S.T. ……I just wanted to make sure you weren’t getting smoke blown up your ass by some “pro” shop that says they work on banshee motors. And yes shaving the head bumps the compression up on motors with stock heads…..but most usually swap out to an aftermarket head with changeable domes to allow the builder to dial in the compression and squish band per riding styles and fuel. I don’t mean any disrespect…..it just seemed odd how your original post was worded…..made me curious if some shop took you for a ride without you knowing…..

So I’ll bite on this one……glad your new guy found some problems….. but honestly, if the shop that did the work couldn’t figure out the problems…. Maybe it’s best to try somewhere else. Also…160psi is very high compression, like very very close if not above what pump gas can handle without detonation issues. And you claimed this shop ported and polished your head……If that’s what they told you, then you DEFINITELY need to find a new shop as the banshee head can’t be ported because there are no ports on it. “Port and polish” heads is a 4stroke thing….. milling a head down to increase compression is a 2stroke thing….

Loco is right…..it won’t even start with 60psi compression. Are you holding the throttle wide open while kicking? And are you continuing to kick until the gauge stops climbing? If you are doing the compression tests right, barrow or rent a different one and compare….then report back….

Do you have photos of the piston? When you say “chunk”……do you mean it physically broke off of the piston top or does it appear to have been eaten away? If it is directly under where the spark plug inserts through the head, and it looks trenched out, it was more than likely a lean condition that burned your piston down…..

Question for you….. when you bought this banshee…. Was the engine already dead? And is this your first banshee?

I haven’t looked at any of his stuff since about 2012 when he wanted $20 less than new for a set of clapped out bent up mismatched fmf spark arrestors…. then off of a whim I had my buddy message him inquiring as to how much he would purchase a set of the same spark arrestors for….but clean, non damaged ones……….he came back with something like he’d pay no more than $15………

Tyler…..you say “cheap”? Where the fuck have you seen cheap parts that HE sells??? BAHAHAHAHAHA

He STILL playing stupid games? I figured ole rattle can woulda been forced out of business years ago!!!!!