diebog

Thanks, I was just curious who everyone else like to buy from. Been out of the game a while so everything is different now.

So because of age go with hot rods? Why would that be better then oem? Cost? Just curious. Also Does anyone have a parts list of seals/gaskets etc. so I can order it all and have it. I hate finding I need a stupid seal and have to wait another week. I’m sure you all been there. I know I asked this already , but just replacing the crank bearings is a no no? I have a 20 ton press and bearing pullers (ones for ring and pinion bearings ). I’m not going to go that way and cheap out, just curious why not if the main crank bearings are the issue. I realize the rod bearings can’t be changed without a bunch of special tools and what not to get it back together. But replacing the outer bearings seems doable. I’ve got a not of money into my banshees and want them to work when I take the time off and drive 10 hours to go ride. I’ll just get the hot rods. As far as where to buy, who do ya all recommend? One mentioned fast. Are there any other good vendors? I’m in Northern California.

Hey guys, My banshee started making a growling sound last ride, you can hear it at idle and gets louder with rpm, definitely a bearing and my guess is one of the crank bearings are on the way out, as it’s a 2002 model and still has stock bearings. And I’d like to fix the issue before it ruins something else. I’m running a cheetah a cub 400 that I had kevin hurr do a mid range dune port on, running single 38mm carb, Paul turner mids, cool head, lockout, and been using on stock crank for years with no issues. Really happy with my setup for the riding I do, and I’ve been really easy on the bike so the crank has never slipped out of phase, still runs great just has a growling noise. years back when I put the cub 400 cylinder on I didn’t weld the crank either. Still has great compression as well…. My question is, what is the best course of action here? Replace the whole crank assembly,? or just do the crank bearings and weld my stock crank up? what brand for aftermarket crank and bearings would you all recommend? I’ve had all kind of engines apart before but never my banshees (I have 2, one for the wife). They always just work and never let me down so other then top end, I have been into the lower yet . Is there a good how to teardown? Or link to oem service manual. Looking to spend 500$ or so, all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks for the help

Looking for a replacement jet block for a 36mm pwk air striker. Just need one. The emoltion tube is jacked and looking for replacement. Or if anyone knows where to buy a new jet block from?

Nope not yet

Does anyone know of a good place to have plastic parts like these lights re chromed? The main body is plastic, not sure what kind.

Looking for a set of stock a arms with good joints and paint in good shape. I know there has to be tons out there. also need stock tie rods. The banshee my sister bought has +2 full flight a arms and she doesn’t like the width of them so looking for stock. The joints on the full flight are in useable shape but I’m not sure what new these felt like so just making sure I don’t mislead someone. These are black in color and I believe setup for stock shocks (14.5”). Comes with matching tie rods. If someone has a good clean oem a arms with the end caps and tie rods id be interested in trading. I can post pic of a arms if there is interest. also does anyone know how to delete a posting? My wanted add for 2-1 carb kit I was able to find and no need to keep it up, or if a mod can remove it. Thanks

Looking for a set with good chrome. The chrome on mine is all peeling off. Anyone know where to buy these? Trail tech told me they don’t sell them anymore. Thanks Jeremy

Order a heliocoil kit. Real easy to use just take your time. Them threads will be steel and last much much longer. For a fast fix get some fine copper wire and stick it down I’m the hole and thread screw in.

Hey on the water pump are you running an oem one or billet aluminum? I replaced mine many many years ago with a billet and from what i remember the billet one did flow more and cool it down slightly as I was having similar issues( but I could be wrong). So I installed a billet impeller and got an oversized rad with engine ice. On my 400 cub I run 18 cc domes and 110 race gas. Have you ever tried 110? In some cases it can make the bike run cooler. What ratio you mixing the gas? I mix mine at 50:1 with Bel Ray H1R (best oil IMHO) I have the trail tech digital and a manual gauge inline so I can double check, are you 100%sure your gauge is good?. Im not sure a fan will do much as a fan is more for when it’s idling or your going really slow and air flow past the radiator isn’t sufficient enough. But If your cruising at a good speed your bike should be getting enough air. Have you made sure there are no air bubbles in the coolant? Can I assume the radiator is in good working order and not clogged? Do you have an aftermarket grill? I had one on my banshee and it was cutting off allot of flow. If you have one you might one to try it without and see if there is any change. I’m no expert so just a few things I would check.

Ouch! Can you find material at a metal recycling place? Years ago in Sacromento there used to be this place you can find all kinds of stuff for super cheap. tracks and I beams off roller coaster, dom tubing, aluminum etc. and it was by the pound so a heck of a lot cheaper then new stuff by the foot. Just a thought, have you checked multiple suppliers. Here in Grass valley where I reside the prices vary drastically depending who you buy from. The bigger the steel shop the better the prices as they get price breaks for the amount they buy.

Can’t wait to see some progress pics!

That’s a pretty cool idea! I was really bummed when they had to stop selling the Banshsee years back. Personally oil port injection on stuff I’ve owned in the past (jets skis) I’ve always blocked off and mixed the gas because if it gets plugged, or low you have no idea and you keep going ending up with engine damage. And it would inject to much oil and other times to little. You would need some way of progressively injecting with rpm/load and some kind of flow sensor that would cut ignition if oil wasn’t flowing (if someone forgot to top off the reservoir, got dirt in the system etc.). So for me if it’s a 2 stroke, mixing the gas is the way to go. Makes it much more simple. I do agree with the single carb idea as that’s what I’ve run on the 4-5 Banshees I’ve owned/maintained over the years. my personal I have a Cub 400, dune port, 18cc domes, 110 octane, Bel Ray H1R 50:1 with a single 38mm carb, Paul Turner mids and been running this setup for 15 years and I haven’t lost a cylinder yet. I’m sure I could squeeze a tiny bit mor hp if I had 2 carbs but for ease of tuning and the dune riding I do, it’s perfect setup for me. Even if a single carb did cut back a little performance, someone who has no clue how to sync 2 carbs so both cylinders are pulling evenly would be better off with the single carb as the adjustment is made for both cylinders. That is if both piston, rings, reeds etc are in good order. Just my .02, I’m sure someone will chime in and say the exact opposite

If there is room you can also get a helicoil kit. Amazon or eBay. There are the China brands as well for allot cheaper. Then the threads would be steel and would hold up for the life of the carb