bebetekbanshee358

yeah man.. big up on the case saver.. my case looks like shit right now..........

A LITTLE OIL BETTER THEN NO OIL....NO WAT I MEAN.

WHEN U DO THE CARB TOP REMOVAL THEY SELL A IDLE KIT U HAVE TO DRILL IN THE SIDES OF THE CARBS. AND THEY WILL SUPPLY A IDLE SET SCREW..

WHATS THEBENEFIT OVER THE BLASTER CAGE THEN THE V FORCE 3'S????

alot of poeple say when u switch from the stock pistons to the wisecos or pretty mucvh any forge piston. these motors create a vibration.. weird cuz i had lil vibration and when i rebuild to wiseco the motor has more vibration i can feel it on the seat.. maybe its more peppy i dont know... havent given it a good ride yet since the rebuild..

u usuallyt knock the timing down for a top end motor.... more advance give u the kick in the pants outthe hole

i ran mine on my honda setup about 3 inches away from the head... all 4 pipes had a probe.. individual cyl timing capabilities

look around pro design makes domes for big bore setups.. either that or u will have to get a blank head the pro design xtreme head. and have a machine shop cut the combustion chamber to your spec.

i did my swing arm pivot bearings today. only way to get the bolt out was working it back and forward with the air chisel and wd 40. it finally came out after 20 m.in of beating on it. the pivot pin didnt weld it self to the bearings but the bearings race weld there self to the swingarm. on one side only the sprocket side. i had to go in there with a die grinder and split the race in half and then i was able to chisle it out,, its a very good idea to drill a hole in the middle on the swingarm threw the tubeand the pivot pin with a rider on the bike and tap a zerk fitting to the tube and just grease it everynow and then.. works beautiful i did it to both the axle and the pivot bearings...

i believe he wants to know what crank he has. maybe he thinks its a stock banshee.. or maybe he wants to know how to identify a 4 mil. r theyre numbers or letters etched on the crank....... i guess its hard to tell in a pic.. but just measure the stroke with a dial indictaor. 4 mil should be about 62mm stroke if im not mistaken

will remember alot of people disconnect the tors.. they dont really connect them back. if u took the carbs apart once. check your slides they might be in back wards.. my slides were in backward and itll idle.. but back fire misfire like crazy through out all ropm range... check ur slides..... as for the fuel leak, like AK said tap the bowl itll probably drop....pilot jets jets.... im still new at this but i learn tons of info on this site,,, tons......

akheathen is right./... but he forgot to cask you how are u checkin ur plugs.... wide open pull in 3rd. and shut off and egt ipon clutch dont let the motor rotate after its off.... pull the plug and check. plug chop it..

id say more like 270 and remove your air lid... or half of it like i did.. more jet for the cold.. less jet for the heat more jet for sea level.. less jet for the mile high club

can u still sdhift weill it go threw the gears??off ofcourse..

can u still sdhift weill it go threw the gears??off ofcourse..

prolites call for a .0030 after a hone job.

make sure your slides are in correct. make sure the lil black hose is in between both carbs.. make sure u didnt mix both bowls 1 has a choke jet the other doesnt... 1.1/4- 2 turns out on ur air mix screws... try cleaning out ur pilot also.. with a wire or aireliminate ur tors also.. i did all of this after my rebuild.. runs sweet now..

thanks guys. the shee is screaming now.it starts up 1 kick cold with no choke.... i had rthe slides in back wards.. it doesnt smoke any more it doesnt sputter anymore it idles like a champ. if finds the idle like champ after a full throttle pull..... without u guys ill be spending big money with a atv mechanic.... thnx guys.. ill keep ya posted on everything else.. looking for a cool head, a billet impellar,and a modified shift star.. i have a timing plate also but i couldnt get trhe flywheel off.. and bhq tips on removing the flywheel.. i order the puller and fucked the puller......

u know what come to look at my slides are in backwards..does the idle screw with the tors kit push against the ramp on the slide? cuz if so then there in right or is it possible to reverse thwem and still have a ramp to push against on the slide? from the air filter side which is the front of the carb . it should be flat on that side or vice versa?

wassup hq.. ya might of rememeber me as the fool who put the oil inb the crankcase to prevent rusting bearings anmd didnt take the oilk out and did the wehole build.. well yea that me.. wassup again.. well most oif the oil is gone it doesnt smoke as bad as it use to....its gettin there.. well as ya might know i did a top end rebuild wiseco pro lite 65.00 everything else is stock besides the fmf pipes... .. ok. well i just install my tors eliminator.. tap the two carbs for the idle kit.. install v force 3s and i threw in some reed spacers i had laying around yes i used 6 gaskets in total someone told me about it and i caught it quick... anyhow this thing takes 100 kicks to start it now.. i have some air bubbles coming out of the tube on the bowls.. both bowls leaking gas u can say. i try to open and look inside it looks good i try to bend the bowls downward some and it seem to leak alot less..im 1-1/2 out on the idle mix screws.. and im about 1 1/2 out also on the idle kit from the tors..when i dop get it to start it crackles and pops in every rpm. it wont idle for it dear life. itll rev all the way up but popping and cracking... it has a 280 jet in it with brand new needles.. how ever when i did the jet swap and use the fmf needle i notice there were about 2 inches longer then the fctory needle.. should i try moving the clip downward a notch. its in the 3rd clip.. has like 7 spots on each needle.i also order a timing plate and the puller for flywheel.. but i couldnt seem to get the flywheel off and fucked up the puller...i check my pickup gap and its more then .010 maybe like 020 or so...the flywheel seems to be ok a lil dirty but, itds still round and both tabs are still on the flywheel .. lol. but yeah man this thing wont run man it runs but pops everywhere.........any help anybody. im running 93oct 32.1 castor..

me 2 on the float bowls being the same...u may see it that both bowls have the overflow tube but i do believe there a lil different....mines only had a choke jet on the choke side...and checking your plugs at idle really wont help you much.. do a wide open throttle pull in 4th gear and shut it down and hold clutch and stop the bike.. then check your plugs. they shoukld look goldish brownish

how much for the pipes shipped to 10458

i agree 100% percent with broncbob.. the key is surface prep.. and yes all master engine builders that do p[orting use epoxy...the key is finding an epoxy that will expand and contract with your specific metal.. devcon is the shit. its aluiminum based.. i used it on my honda projects.. the b16s and gsrs... w cut 3 inch studs on aluminum. drill about 3 holes around the cylinder area from the block.. and use devcon and the studs to fillthe holes.. they work like a benson sleeve... boosted 30-36 psi and never had a problem on a stock sleeve block..........the shit works.. just do it right.. first before any though.. if its aluminum try to have it tig welded just to cover some of the hole.. and then smooth it out with the epoxy

ur looking folr trouble./.. not anything crazy.. but hey measure twice cut once.. get the nerf bars and see what adapts to it.. work your way around it...

check your air mixture screw. anywhwere from 1 - 2 turns out.. ./ complete turns that is 360degree.....