So Cal Suspension

BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH Who asked for my advice or opinion? Sir, perhaps you need to realize you posted in a PUBLIC forum. Who asked for YOUR opinion? I sure didn't see you start this thread, did I? Didn't you chime in uninvited? I think so. Second, Did I read through the thread? Are you kidding me? This topic has been beat to DEATH for the last 5 years. Maybe rather than thinking you came up with some NOVEL idea, do a search, Hundreds, IF NOT THOUSANDS of people, attempted what you did, and failed, just like you did. It's nothing new. But you seem to think it is. Third, Peddling my over priced, over rated performance parts? Again, showing that you don't know what you're talking about. I don't sell performance parts, never have, and I certainly don't "peddle" anything. Anyone I've done work for can chime in and tell you if I "peddle" anything. "Trying to make a buck". Frankly, I don't make SHIT off of doing what I do. Like I have told people, and had you done your research you would have read this in the sponsor spotlight section: That I do it, mainly, to give myself something to do in the evenings. Again, not knowing what you're talking about before spouting off at the mouth. So, like I've said before, and I'll say it again. DO YOUR RESEARCH!! Had you done a little bit of research from the get-go, you would have realized that even attempting a 450r conversion on a Banshee is about as ridiculous as trying to screw a couch cushion; Sounded like a good idea, but had you thought about it, you'd realize it was a retarded idea. I'm still up for the challenge of trying to build a bike that handles better than yours. In fact, every bike that I've touched would already win... just ask my customers.

It's posts like these that makes no one take you seriously, and jump down your throat. FYI, your new explanation was a poor attempt at making your first one sound accurate, which, sadly, it was not.

This is what I use: I bought it for one simple reason. It's got the handy little spout on the top for easy filling

...andy... wtf is Yamuma?

I'm never on this dump... You will never see me in the shoutbox.

Basically, I will shorten the shocks to the stock banshee length. You will lose ground clearance over running the shocks as is right now (because they're too long), but it will still maintain factory geometry, and ride height, as if the bike were stock. I can do both shocks, including parts, shipping, everything for $75.

This post makes me laugh. Yes, checking email/surfing the web is VERY important to me... I use it probably 10-15 times a day... You see, I own a real estate business... When I get a call from an escrow company/client/insurance company/another agent/lender/home inspector/home warranty rep that needs information, I can (while talking on the phone), pull up my email and give them the info they need. Or, if it's not in my email, be able to browse and find the specific information, while having them on the phone. I'm sorry if YOUR brain goes into overload while doing two things at once, but I can handle it, and do it all the time. Sometimes 3 things at once. I've had Verizon, just got rid of them after almost 6 years... around here, the network sucked my ass. I couldn't get coverage where I needed it. The exact opposite applies with AT&T, for me. I get full 3g coverage pretty much everywhere. Sure, there are dead spots, but not anywhere remotely close to the number of dead spots there were from Verizon. Also, your friend who got trapped because she couldn't get out on AT&T? Why wouldn't she just turn on roaming and use another carriers tower? Seems logical to me, rather than getting hypothermia.

I'm sure there are other ways of doing it. I did my buddies with the o-ring in mid 2004, and his still hasn't stuck, or rattled since. Took about 10 minutes start to finish.

They will still have the exact same ride as they did before, just be an inch shorter.

So this entire thread is about you running Full Flight a-arms with 450 shocks? What's so special about that? Nearly every a-arm manufacturer makes arms now to run 450 shocks... Also, I think you need to do more research... "Gas shocks"?

The Verizon iPhone is going to be shit compared to AT&T's. Their network can't handle doing two things at once. For example: If you're talking on the phone via bluetooth, speaker phone, or whatever, you can check your email and browse the net at the same time with AT&T. Verizon's network wont be able to handle that. CDMA is old ass technology, and one day Verizon will get with the times and upgrade their network. You would think with as big as they are, they would have a superior network to a company as small as Cricket Wireless... but no... I have AT&T, and Sprint. Sprint's data is slower than shit (yes, even on "4g"), but has better voice reliability, whereas AT&T's data is much better, but drops calls... pretty much constantly...

You don't need all that crap... open it up, grease the check ball, and the hole the spring goes down in, and put a 1/8" o-ring ontop of the check ball before you reassemble it. Done and done...

That set WAS for sale on the EXforum a long time ago. I don't know if it ever sold, or not. Laegar's is about 8 doors down from my shop. They still make the pro-trax front end, and you can buy their entire frame, subframe, swinger, and pro-trax front end for like 7 grand. That's a hell of a deal when you consider what an outlaw costs...

Looking to trade for any shocks?

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135690 $100, won't get much, even in today's market. For a set of dual rate non reservoir Works shocks, in good shape, ready to bolt on, expect to spend $200-$250.

I can modify the stock 450 shocks to be stock banshee length. No more binding of the ball joints.

Hey Jerry, quick question. Will these be available with either a plug or with the option of not having the TPS for the aftermarket carbs, or those who have deleted the TORS? Thanks buddy! Looks good!

Here you go guys. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138987

Now flip the rod end (or shock, depending on which you are working on) over in your vice, and install the snap ring. We need to install the seals now. These press about 90% of the way in by hand, and need a GENTLE tap to get them seated all the way with a 3/4" socket, and a hammer. Repeat this for the other side, and you are done. Put your spacers back in there, and bolt the shock back up. It does not matter that the heim isn't perfectly "centered" in the rod end, or shock body. When you install the shock into your bike, and tighten down the bolt, it will center the heim on it's own.

Begin pressing out the heim. It should come out easy. If you notice a LOT of resistance, stop, spray it down with WD-40, and make sure everything is straight. If you're trying to press this at and angle, it will dig into the rod end, and you'll be in the market for a new shock. So once that is out, you should have these 4 pieces out of your shock. Remember, one snap ring we left in, you can remove it if you want, or if it's still in good shape (like this one is) just leave it in. If you are using all new snap rings, go ahead and put a snap ring into one of the grooves. Does not matter which. Next thing I want you to notice is that there are two different sides of this heim. It does not matter which side goes toward which. Next, press the new heim (or in this case, the old heim, that I'm putting back in) with your hands, into the side of the rod end that does NOT have the snap ring. This is very important. MAKE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT!! Having the heim crooked at this step will guarantee that it will try to be pressed in crooked. Now it's time to start pressing in the new heim. Using the 5/8 socket... again... making sure everything is straight, press the heim into the rod end until you feel it press up against the other snap ring. DO NOT OVER DO IT HERE! If you need to stop 2 or 3 times to check and see if you've gone far enough, do it. This is what it should look like when fully seated.

Since several people have been having problems changing out their heims in the stock Banshee Rear Shocks, I decided to put together this write up. The process is the same for both the upper and lower heim. Tools required: Vice, angled pick tool, X-Acto Knife, 5/8" socket, 3/4" socket and a 1 1/8" socket. First, you will need to remove the seals. Use a flat head screwdriver, and gently work underneath the seal, and it will pop up. If you purchased a kit from All Balls, or similar that came with new seals, throw these away. This is what you will see next. The snap ring will be up against the heim. It is impossible to remove that snap ring, since it needs to be pushing DOWN to be removed. Using a 5/8" socket, GENTLY press the heim toward one side (doesn't matter which), until you feel it seat up against the other side snap ring. This will clear a small space for you to work. On the side that had the SOCKET, there will be a gap now between the heim, and the snap ring. The easiest tool to use is an X-Acto knife. Using the blade, work it behind the snap ring, and pop it out as shown. While holding it out in the position pictured, put a pick behind the snap ring as you see below and remove it. Be careful though, it may go flying. If your kit came with new snap rings, throw these away. Now we need to press out the heim. Using your vice and a 5/8" socket press the heim TOWARD the side that no longer has the snap ring. Once you feel the heim press up against the other vice jaw, stop. I have modified... or... destroyed a 1 1/8" socket to be used for this purpose only.