So Cal Suspension

If you can, post a pic of what you're looking for. I have a set of stock light housings here that you can have if that's what you need, just pay the shipping.

Yes and No. Yes they use better quality components. (Machined piston, rather than powder pressed, billet rod ends, heims rather than bushings). No, because you won't notice the ride quality difference between the two. Basically, I've said this many times in the past. A PROPERLY set up pair of works steelers, will outperform Elka stage 4's, or even the best set of Axis shocks you can buy. Without getting into the details, and boring you with at that mumbo jumbo, Elka uses a valving system that is identical offroad shocks, and automotive shocks. Works uses a different type of valving setup, that utilizes springs and check balls. They are totally different animals internally. If the prices are the same, go with the Elkas. If the Works are significantly cheaper, go with the Works shocks. Reservoirs serve two purposes: The most important purpose is that they keep the nitrogen and oil seperate, via a nitrogen bladder or an internal floating piston (IFP) in the reservoir. The second is they help the oil cool. The cooling factor doesn't come into play for about 99% of riders, as ATV shocks don't displace enough oil, or generate enough heat for that to be a factor. Non reservoir shocks are an "emulsion" shock: The oil and nitrogen are together, in one body, blending together. This can be an issue after prolonged periods of riding, where the oil and nitrogen get whipped up in a "foam". This is where you get the term "Shock Fade" from. As the oil gets whipped up, the viscosity changes, and your shocks will begin to feel pogo-ish. Just my two cents.

WHAAAATTT??? A CUSTOMER WHO BOUNCED A CHECK!?!?! Sounds all too familiar to me... The sad thing was, mine was from a supposed "well respected" company... twice... It's really a shame what the world is coming to. I do have a hard time believing that he did it maliciously, seeing as how had you seen that it was an e-check, you wouldn't have shipped it until it cleared. If you used UPS or FedEx and it hasn't been delivered yet, you can call them and have the shipment returned, at your expense.

Says new in the title.

First target? The BansheeHQ of eBay?

this made me giggle as well.

In his defense, February 18, 2010 was 1 year, and 10 days ago. But I do agree. The sig pic is a little ridiculous.

My guess is, you bought the bike at the Morongo swap meet?

HONESTLY, you could probably get $300-350 shipped for them. Make note of any and ALL damage to them, and take pictures of the damage. Unfortunately you're a new member, so you have an even smaller customer base.

You could go with a different frame, OR, you can get ahold of Tim at Stellar, and get a set of his +2 J-arms. Some guys like the j-arm frames because they are lighter. I don't know HOW much lighter, but they are a little lighter than the a-arm frames.

I'm not going to comment on whether or not that is actually a female in his signature, because I think it's pretty obvious. But it is pretty big. The signature is pretty big too. Anywho. The Polaris quads aren't that fast. The 525 Outlaws do run Podium X shocks, which are pretty sweet for stockers. They also run a trailing arm setup, which is the first of it's kind, I believe. Can-Am, and Polaris have adapted that same style setup to their Side-by-Sides, and they handle extremely well now. Trailing arms have been used for ever on long travel sand cars.

Oh, alright, nevermind then. You might get a better response if you put the price that you're looking to get for them, rather than an inflated price. So honestly, what are you looking to get for them? No one here wants to do the craigslist price game.

I'm confused. The other ad says $400, but you're trying to sell them to us for $450? I would think it should be the other way around. On that note, I can do $250, shipped.

Nothing really on the pro-airs yet. They released them in mid-08, so they're probably all still working perfectly... Yeah, without a doubt I bet most people would be happy with floats. I know I would. But when you're talking the baddest set of shocks available, it goes to Axis and Elka. They are pretty much side by side. As far as dynoing a shock with the spring on, I suppose if you didn't have a dyno that could handle it the increased force of a spring, you would get skewed results. I use a Roehrig 5Vs dyno, with the spring rater attachment. Killer piece of equipment by the way. I've got about two years and about 1500 dynos on this one and it's absolutely perfect. She was just calibrated at the University of Michigan in July, 2010. No adjustments were made. Upgraded from my 3VS and never looked back. Anyhooters. Since both shocks were dyno'd with "springs", again, the results are still fair. I was merely quoting fade and heat generated, nothing relating to the PROPER use of the dyno... lol. In those aspects everything is 100% equal. I always test my shocks ready to bolt on the bike, coilover, airshock, it doesn't matter. I typically don't dyno for valving on ATV shocks, I dyno to test my particular oil blend for fade, and fun, really. Suprisingly, Works shocks develop the least amount of heat of any other shock brand that I have tested for ATV's. The only brand that I can recall that I haven't tested is TCS, frankly because I don't care... They're out of business.

Yeah bro. Even with the longer shocks. This has been covered hundreds of times. Billy made a good thread about it. Go check it out.

Haha, Gary. You definitely would be continuing your climb to the best shocks on the market, if you bought Axis next. =)

Exactly, Shayne. Both shocks were tested under the exact same conditions. There is no fairer way to test them.

You will lose about 2-3 inches of ride height.

Of course they were pressurized... It wouldn't make any sense to dyno them flat... Both sets of shock were dyno'd ready to run. Completely unbiased. Side by side, both shocks ready to run. Don't get me wrong, I love fox's products, and sell them on a daily basis. I'm just saying there are more efficient options out there other than floats, in my professional opinion.

Fulflight offers several different arms for the Banshee. One is to be used with YFZ450 shocks, and the other to be used with stock length shocks. I believe you are referring to the arms designed for the YFZ shocks. You will not have to cut them, as they are specifically built for a Banshee. MUCH better than hacking up a set of YFZ450 take off arms. Just FYI, though. If you're a bigger guy (200+), you will find those YFZ shocks are going to be really soft on the fullflight arms. I have people calling almost every day asking what can be done to stiffen up the YFZ shocks, and the answer is, frankly, not much. So just keep that in mind, and HAVE FUN!

Yes, but why would you want to?

Yes, stock length shocks are 14.5" eye to eye. If you are running 16" shocks, you will bottom out the shocks long before you use all of your travel. You can do damage to both the shock, and your frame/arms running them that way.

I'll just throw in my two cents. I think that if you are spending that kind of money on a front end, do it right. Contact Tim at Stellar, and get a set of his arms. They are the absolute best arms money can buy, hands down. Second, If you really want full control over your suspension, I would steer clear of air shocks all together. Just recently, I have dyno'd a set of Float X Evols, and at 25 minutes, 80CPM, they faded 28% under 77*C. By comparison, an Axis remote reservoir shock on the same machine; same ambient temperature, run at 80CPM; faded <3% after 25 minutes, at 63*C. That's a huge difference when you're talking low duty numbers such as 80CPM, and only 25 minutes. Air shocks build up tremendous heat, and don't dissipate it efficiently. I don't recommend the floats on a heavy machine, such as a Banshee. You will probably be happy with the way they ride, but a set of Elka or Axis shocks will last MUCH longer between services, and ultimately give you more control over the way the shock reacts. I won't go into detail about long travel vs standard travel, but by putting a longer shock on a bike, you'll get more down travel but you'll lose the same amount of up travel.

About 99.9% of shops won't even consider rechroming used pipes, clean or not. Send a message to JLEngineering on here, and have him give you a quote on rechroming the pipes. He's done them for a few members on here, and they turn out awesome.

No, that's a dick.