So Cal Suspension

I bet you could find someone who has one with the stripped out threads in it that would get it to you for cheap to try it out... Maybe do it inside the frame so you know it'll still fit...? Just a thought. You may not get another gallon out of it, but you should be able to get more... Maybe stick the whole thing in an oven at 225-250 or so, get it pliable, quickly stick it back in the frame, bolt it down, and pressurize it.

I'd use a heat gun... the thing WAS full of gas at one point... lol

Just looking out for our members is all... It's pretty tough to say a mere 4 or 5 weeks ago "I just want to get it running good enough to sell it." I specifically remember telling you in the shoutbox when you said that, that it was messed up. You said you didn't care anymore, and were done with it. Now it's good to go and ready to rock with zero problems? C'mon man. We've gotta protect our members with every bit of information possible.

Huh? Wasn't it just like 3 weeks ago that Phelps sent you a head gasket for free because you didn't want to buy one? I specifically remember (others do as well, I just confirmed) you saying in the shoutbox that you just want to get it running good enough to sell. Don't you think that's kind of messed up to try to sell it to members here? Peddle it on craigslist and someone I'm sure will buy it, but don't do that to members here...

I think you're going to have major issues selling it here since most people know the history of you, and the problems with that motor.

What if you just pressurized the tank and heated up the areas you want to expand. Blow that shit up like a balloon.

run away run away run away.

Haha, spend $1500 in gas to save $1000 on a bike.

Haha they were bad, man. One spring was broken in half, both bladders were blown out and they were pretty much covered in oil.

If you're going to pay $121.00 for those trail techs, I would suggest doing a DC conversion and get some of my LED lights for $198.00/pr shipped. They will be more than 3 times as bright as those trail techs, last 100 times as long (50,000 hours), and only draw 20 watts for the pair. The stock stator can handle up to 6 of my lights after the DC conversion: You're limited to 2 trail tech halogen lights. Check out this thread for all the info on them. The DC conversion can be done by the average person in under two hours with no special tools other than a flywheel puller, and a soldering iron (which most people have anyways). http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150864

Too damn far, man. I'd give you your asking price too, but it'd be a hell of a drive...

Haha, BUT, they were bright for a split second before they blew, right?

The last DC Conversion I did, I started taking pictures, then got sidetracked, and didn't really think it was necessary because of the write ups that are already on the internet. Trail Tech's DC Conversion is pretty straight forward, and there really is no reason for me to do a writeup. http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/stators/AC-DC_Banshee_Stator_Conversion_Instructions.pdf I can post the pictures that I have later on showing where I floated the ground, but I don't really have many other pictures. The trail-tech regulator/rectifier comes with detailed instructions on what to do after the ground is floated.

Correct. Typically an unregulated stator puts out 37-40VAC at WOT, 7-9VAC at idle.

Oh STFU, like you know anything about insurance...

The stock rear shock can be rebuilt relatively inexpensively. The total to rebuild your stock rear shock is $119.00 plus shipping. Front shocks are a little bit more tricky. If you're buying a used set of Works shocks, make sure you are buying from a reputable seller. I have a set of Works shocks right now that a customer bought off of someone, and they ended up needing over $300 in work to them, JUST to get them back into usable condition. So just be aware of the possibility that they could need a decent amount of work to get them back into good shape.

American National Insurance. My brother-in-law is my agent, send me a text and I'll give you his number. Everything I own is insured through them. Best prices I've ever seen. Edit: My wife just told me the insurance on my banshee was only $8/mo, so $96/yr

HOLY F!!! $300 A YEAR?!?!?! I had full coverage with an agreed replacement value of $5,400, and I paid $140 a year.

The 250R frame was a good frame, back in the late 90's, until about 2004 when the YFZ450's came out in 2004. Ever since then, the 250r geometry has been outdated, and rudimentary. If you REALLY want a well handling banshee for MX, and want to do an abortion bike, either do a TRX or YFZ-R frame.

The YFZ shocks, PERIOD are shit. They use TINY little pistons, and valve the shit out of them from the factory. They are cool looking shocks, and NOTHING more than that. Anyone who claims it ride great has never ridden a properly set up Banshee.

My banshee ran the same spark plugs it came new with in 2005. New spark plugs, by the sheer fact that they are new, would eliminate the possibility of them being fouled.

Yes, it's a complete wiring schematic.

High beam is yellow, low beam is green. Also, the schematic has been posted about 480 times. Why is this in "bansheehq gear"?

My best guess would be rolling the bike on the side allowed some dirt or grit to get into one of the jets on one of the carbs. It could have been just sitting in the bottom of the bowl, but when it rolled it somehow worked itself into a jetting circuit. Just my four cents.

Haha, pretty standard. That "brain" goes bad on more bikes than you could imagine. Even if you still run TORS, I would recommend unplugging that thing anyways. Also, don't forget about the wire that goes to your parking brake on your handlebars. There's a sensor in that bad boy too, but if the brain is unplugged it won't matter.