So Cal Suspension

The only reason I said that the 250r was the best geometry until 2004, was because when the YFZ came out, it handled better and had more travel than the 250r. The Laegars and LSR long travel chassis were modeled after the 250r's. Notice how they're not around, or worth anything anymore? Frankly, their nothing compared to what a stock YFZ450 can do. As far as shock lengths, If you duplicate the 2009+ YFZ45R front end exactly, then you would be able to use any stock length YFZ450R shock.

If you were to put the shock at 45 degrees, you wouldn't really sacrifice stability, but you will sacrifice some travel. Also, the speed of the compression will slow down at +/- 20* of the apex. This is where hi/mid/lo speed valving play a role. Keep in mind when choosing shocks, what your compressed vs collapsed length needs to be. Putting them further out you will need a super long shock, but also a super short shock when it's fully compressed. That's not always easy to find in a shock. The further out you mount your shocks, the best control you have over valving. The closer to the frame, the more travel you can get out of a certain length shock, which is why 60 degrees is the best of both worlds. Honestly I have no idea why manufacturers don't build proper suspension setups from the factory. My best guess would be, that it has to fit a WIDE range of customers. A 60* setup would have to be fine tuned for a specific rider.

Yeah Shayne. He posted a link in like 6 other threads. He's assuming that he sold a car radio to this guy, and the guy did a credit card chargeback after some time. The seller got his money back through paypal. He's just on a smear campaign blasting his shit in every thread cruelsoul posts in.

So wiseco gives you money for a sponsorship, but you don't run their stickers? I too would like to see your sponsorship agreement, and what it all entails. twin carbs make any bike supafast

A 90* angle on a double a-arm setup is possible, but not logical. The reason I say to keep your shock angle around 60 degrees is that an equilateral triangle has all sides at 60 degrees. A triangle is the strongest/most stable shape known to man. The closer you can get your upper shock mounts, the better. If you can keep the shocks at 60 degrees, and your upper shock mounts close together, you will have the greatest amount of wheel travel possible. I understand this isn't always feasible, but see the image that I made up that shows what I'm trying to describe. Basically, keep everything triangulated. You have the greatest control over shock valving when the shocks move at a consistent speed. For example, a volkswagon beam style front end, runs the shocks at 90 degrees. completely vertical. It is VERY easy to valve those shocks, and get the PERFECT. They move at a constant speed through their entire travel, therefore a standard valve stack can be used. In cases where the shocks are at angles, and operate at different speeds throughout their cycle, we use two, sometimes three valve stacks on either side of the piston. Often called "low, mid, and high speed valving". As the speed increases, it engages the second, and third valve stacks.

Ask Alfie. He had great luck with his bolts. :rotflmao: Permatex 31163 copper. Comes in a little bottle/jar thing with a brush. It's a bitch to wash it off your skin, but works awesome. I use it on every bolt on my boat, keeps them from rusting inside the hole.

There's a reason most of us GOOD shock companies have multiple blends and types of oils. I use 14 different synthetic oils ranging from 1wt, up to 19wt. I also use different oil blends and additives, depending on the application, setup, and rider preferences. I'm unsure what you are trying to do. I answered your question and told you that 1:2 is where you need to be. It's a comfortable medium that I think is the easiest to attain with the short a-arms that ATV's run. Are you planning on manufacturing your own shock start to finish? If you aren't, you should find which shocks you are going to use, and build your front end around that. You keep using the term "velocity" as though there is a set industry standard? A shocks velocity varies depending upon the shock angle, and travel ratio. Being that I have worked at the worlds largest shock manufacturer, I can tell you, hands down, ATV shocks from the factory are pretty much cookie cutter shocks with nothing more than valving changes. When Elka, Fox, or PEP sends you shocks for a 180lb rider on +2 std travel arms, on a dune bike. You're getting the exact same shock as a 160lb rider on +3 std travel arms who rides an MX track. They're not considering what your specific "target velocity" is. They build the shocks for the right length, and that's it. You don't honestly believe that Elka comes out with a "Banshee" shock, and it has different internal parts, aside from valving, than a YFZ450 shock, do you? They consider eye-to-eye length, the angle the shock will operate at, and a target amount of wheel travel. Building a shock around a target "velocity" is like building a motor around a target coolant temperature. Sure, it matters, but there are 100 other variables that will affect the coolant temp. In this scenario, shock angle and wheel travel are the two BIGGEST factors that will affect a shocks "velocity". Using numbers like 200ml/second doesn't make any sense. Is that at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60mph? Or do you want the shock to displace 200ml/sec regardless of speed? There is no industry standard, or perfect "velocity" that shocks are built for. The adjustments are made with valving and oil viscosity. The piston that's used in a long travel Elka TRX450R shock, is the same piston that's used in a standard travel Banshee shock. A dual rate Elka shock is not valved the same as a triple or quad rate Elka shock when it leaves my shop. EVERYTHING is taken into consideration that could have an affect on ride quality, but I most certainly don't ever ponder the variances in "velocity". I have enough experience to know how certain bikes behave, and what my customers want. I can change shaft lengths, extended lengths, and collapsed lengths based on what travel ratio we are looking to get. To me, it sounds like you're fishing for an industry standard that EVERY shock operates at. The answer is simple. There isn't one. EVERY shock is different, and EVERY shock operates differently.

Then lolwut.

God damnit Ron... Anyways, Dunes. I replied to your PM. Honestly there isn't a GOOD writeup online anymore. There used to be a step-by-step walkthrough where the guy did a 200w stator, battery and like 4 HID lights, and documented it real well, but I can't find it anymore. I guess I'll have to do a writeup all by memory. The trailtech regulator/rectifier bolts right into place where your stock regulator comes off. The included instructions suck ass... Gimme a day or so, and I'll spend a few hours doing a writeup.

It's an easy swap. 1923 Ford T-Bucket monoleaf. Gangster.

This term "motion ratio" strikes again. When you're building a frame with as little travel as an atv has, travel differential is less of an issue as shock angle. Even long travel Banshees only get about 12" of active wheel travel. Keep your shock angle at 50-60 degrees. You're over thinking "motion ratio". If you were dealing with 20"+ of wheel travel, it's something to take into consideration. On ATV's, however, it's an often ignored aspect with superb results. 1:1 isn't possible unless you were planning on running a leaf spring and straight axle in the front with your shocks vertical overtop of the axle. 1:2 is probably closer to where you need to be. 12" of wheel travel with a 6" travel shock is attaintable. Keep your shock angle around 50-60 degrees. Point blank, ATV shocks don't displace enough oil, or create enough friction to generate a significant amount of heat, so don't worry about any of that. Get your shock angles right, and have at it.

Front wheel flip.

You don't HAVE to run a battery, but it is highly recommended to avoid flickering at low RPMS. Even if you just get a tiny little one, there is MINIMAL extra wiring, and nothing else more to buy, other than the battery itself. The one below I think is small enough to fit inside your tool box thing under your seat, or it can be hidden pretty much anywhere on the bike. In my opinion, you should at least run this small battery in there to avoid that flicker. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-New-AA-12V-1800MAH-Ni-MH-Rechargable-Battery-Pack-3-/290687227550?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item43ae4f169e I didn't even see the reply by trailtech until right now, but prepare for an ankle grab with those things... lol

Check out Ken OConnor's videos on YouTube.

X2 on never hearing of ADA. They look like NOSS/PD domes, but who knows. Pro-design is probably the most popular, but I think the other two that Tyler mentioned are pretty popular as well.

x17. OEM stators are the best stators. PM sheerider and get one from him, he has magical ones.

PM me your address. I'll throw it in an envelope tomorrow. Do you just need one, or two?

They are custom made, however they are not available in other colors right now. Sorry.

Top or bottom? The bottom ones are the big ones, the top ones are the smaller ones.

Throw them away and don't put those useless dirt trappers back on there.

The LED's used in tail lights are typically <1/2w. Low power LED's generally are fine on AC current since they don't produce any heat. Exactly! Thanks for being the guinea pig for us. AC current alternates back and forth. If you imagine a hose filled with water, and it's sloshing back and forth. That's AC current. DC current is water flow in one direction only. LED's by definition are diodes. (Light Emitting Diode). Diodes, by design, only react when electricity flows in a single direction. When LED's are powered with AC current, they are actually flashing. They're flashing fast enough that the human eye can't see it, though. Typically HOUSEHOLD AC current (in the US) is 110vac @ 60hz. That means it's passing by the diode 120 times per second (Back and forth). Naturally, since LED's only "ignite" in a single direction, the lights flash at a rate of 60hz. There is some discrepancy about how many "hertz" the human eye can see, and often times it is quoted in FPS (Frames Per Second) rather than Hz. A common number you will find is 25-35 FPS. That being said, an LED powered by 60hz of AC current flashes twice as fast on average, than the human eye can distinguish. A common rule of thumb is "brightness beats darkness". Meaning, even though the human eye can see ~25 FPS, you will still be able to see a light flashed ONCE for 1/200th(200hz) of a second. Ive heard some people even say you can see a light flash for 1/1000th (1000hz) of a second, and I don't doubt it one bit. Now, being that the Banshee stator fires it's electronic pulses at varying speeds based on RPM; at idle, you are probably seeing 15-20hz of electronic pulses. The Banshee stator has 6 poles on the stator designated to the lighting circuit. These poles make up one half of the stator (We'll call it the right side). The left side of the stator is made up of the ignition circuit. If Yamaha had alternated the poles, ie (ignition, light, ignition, light, ignition, light, etc) the frequency at which the magnet passed over each pole, it would have increased the hz, or frequency electricity is transmitted. Since the lighting circuit is only HALF of the stator, it's got half of a rotation with NOTHING going to it, slowing down the pulses of electricity. The power produced by your stator alternates between ignition, and lighting every rotation. Even after converting to DC current, you will still get pulsing DC current, because of the issues I noted above. This is called "Dirty DC current". The only surefire cure for this is to run some sort of buffer between the stator, and the lights. A battery or capacitor, for example, would store up enough energy to slowly and steadily release power to your lights, and completely eliminate the flicker that you see at idle. Hopefully I didn't confuse anyone... I tried to put everything into terms that most people could understand. About your lights blowing up, they'll probably just burn out in a relatively short time. I've powered several of my 3w individual LED's when I was trying to build a tail light without a DC conversion, and they last about 15 minutes of riding. Once the RPMs came up, and stayed up, they overheated and smoked themselves. Hopefully you have much better luck. It'd be pretty cool if those lights work on AC, because I can get them VERY cheap, and can probably keep them in stock for less than $40 per light.

X2. If not, they won't last very long at all... Those lights are available on eBay for relatively inexpensively. The problem with them (1) optics quality, and (2) they are all 3w LED's, which are less efficient than high power LED's. I had a set of those in Euro beam here for testing, and I found that they were VERY bright, but didn't quite throw the light the distance I wanted. I had a difficulty finding the lights in anything other than a flood pattern. What I did find in a Euro was too "flood-y" if that makes sense. I bet they'd do good in tight trails and stuff where you don't need to project light 100yards or so. Edit: If you didn't do the DC Conversion, let us know how long they last. I'm not being a dick, I'm honestly curious to see how long they last. I've never had the balls to run my LED lights on AC current...

Holy cow... you going for a 100mph bike? Lemme guess. Florida? edit: Nevermind, just saw Mississippi

That's how I like my women. Add "black" to the end of that and you've got the perfect package.

I'm a damned genius. If you can somehow get a schrader onto the gas cap, use a bicycle pump and you can pump it up that way, rather than blowing into it.