broncbob

I normally rough up the surface to be bonded, such on the tank on my heater, I used a 120 grit wheel on a die grinder, but I did nothing to the bushing. I figured the threads would give it something to grip to. I then cleaned them with brake parts cleaner. I did fix a hole punched into a case cover, the clutch side on one of my dirt bikes. I roughed up the surface with 120 paper cleaned it with acetone, and then painted it over with the JB. It held very well for years, till I lost the bike in my divorce. The other big thing is not to rush the part back into service, you have to let it cure for a full 24 hours, longer if make a big thick repair. I have only made one real structural repair with JB, it was on a very old outboard motor, It had cracked a seal/bearing retainer. One of the ears that bolted it to lower end broke off, and it was cast aluminum. Welding it wasn't a option, and finding a new or a good used one was going to be a long search, so I JB'ed it, and it worked like a champ! It lived for 2 years that I had it under heavy use exposed to gear oil on one side, and water on the other.

I think engine ice is just a water wetter, I don't believe it has and antifreeze type properties at all?

It will be 250, give or take to have it poked and re-coated.

I have bad news for you.....I have the drain plug on my diesel heater in my garage JB welded. The original drain plug was some kinda rubber joke that came apart when I went to drain the tank. I got a brass pipe bushing with a pipe plug, threaded it in the drain hole, and the sealed it with JB. It has been holding for a good long time now. JB stands up to what it claims, but you have to follow the directions to the letter.

Dude, have it poked and re-coated for sure. That's the great thing about the niksil, you never really punch out a cylinder, they just take the old stuff out and re-coat it to the original size.

I'd start with downloading a manuel from the link in the post at the top of the section. Then open up the stator side and check the gap at the pickup coil. If the gap is set at a plug box or business card and is tight, start to go through the tests for the stator, then the coil and CDI, checking the plugs and wires as you go. If all of that turns out good, check the key switch and bar switch. All most forgot, do you still have the Tors on your carbs? If you do, pull the plug on the brain by the left pipe, just over the head. Do this first if it's still there and hooked up.

Do you have spark one one side, and not on the other, or are both holes dead? Are you using new plugs to check if you have spark?

Mine has leaked a bit on the trailer, my guess is it's from the trailer bouncing around while moving, and or expansion from temp differences. I have never had a problem with them sitting in the shop.

Kinda hard to say, lots of things that come down to what you want. I'd park then side by side and measure how much room that you need, then add any space that you may want for gear, fuel cans, coolers and stuff and go from there.

It's either spark or fuel related I'd think. Have you tried to do a plug chop on it? Warm it up on the plugs that are in it now, then switch plugs and try a plug chop.

I'd buy a new one now. If the chain the lost it's master only had 10 hours on it, and it was on new chain wheels, then I would have reused it .

Here you go bro.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73599

Are you having over heating problems? None of the shees I ride with ever over heat, even in 100* weather.

This is why I love round carriers, just toss the carrier in the oven at 400* for 15 minuets and tap it on a 2x4 and the bearings fall right out. I have never tried it with the stock carrier, but the idea is that the aluminum expands faster than the bearings, thus they will fall out when heated. You can use this trick to install yours for sure. Put your bearings in the freezer about a hour, then heat the carrier for 15 minuets in the oven at 400*. When the carrier is well done, pull it out and drop the bearings right in. Make sure they are seated all the way as it cools, or you will be driving them in after it cools, and that's what your trying not to have to do. I hate to have to hammer on new bearings, and bearing races. I use this trick on every thing, including trailer wheel bearing races and truck bearing races.

Did you soak your fibers before you installed them? Are you sure that you have the clutch adjusted the right way? Have you tried to fire it up and put it in gear?

I shut off the fuel and ride it for a bit to get the level in the carbs low, but not really run dry. I do it to make sure I don't leak fuel on the floor of the trailer. There is no need to run it dry ever, if your putting it up for a extended amount of time, you need to drain the bowls. Just running them dry isn't really draining them. It will leave enough fuel in there to gum up and cause you problems latter.

I bought one of these arms "used" and called to make sure that it was right. Tim spent 20 minuets on the phone with me helping me out with a few things, very nice guy. He even sent me to a place that sold carriers cheaper than he could get them. I was ready to give him a credit card number for one, and he saved me a whack of money by sending me some where else.

What is the weight on the fast fibers? How is the edges finished?

I have never seen in in a 2 stroke, lots of it in heads for 4 strokes and car heads. It has all ways been used on the intake side, normally to change the height of the floor of the intake runners it up velocity through the port to try and get better than 100% V.E. The exhaust side work is normally opened up as to match the header, and then some work around the valve and the bowl to increase flow to the max, and reshaping of the floor of the port doesn't include epoxy, as it's add to choke the flow up on the intake side.

I have never seen epoxy in exhaust ports, only on the intake side.

Thumb throttles are for 3-4 wheel, ski, hull rigs Twist is for 2 wheels. You use your body in different ways on different rigs, but on 2 wheels you don't use turn the bars very much at high speed, you lean. On quads you turn the bars and lean. That makes a twist throttle a poor choice for a quad. Lots of people still rock them, but lots of people still rock trikes too. If all you do is burn down the drag strip, or up the hill, then it really doesn't matter much, but for tight trails and fast dunes the thumb throttle is the way to go. Before one of you guys scream at me that I don't know how to operate a twist throttle, I have been riding motorcycles since I was 5, and I didn't ride my first sport quad till I was 30. In that time I rode trails, dunes and pavement on bikes, and have owned at least one bike for the past 20 years, so I am well schooled on how a twist throttle works.

You can ride in the cold, but you have to jet for it. It will run lean in the cold if the jetting was set during warn weather. It will take longer to warm up in the cold, and you shouldn't just fire it up and rip it. let it warm up some, and then ride it easy till it's full warm. Asking a guy what kind of 2 stroke oil they like is just like asking them what kind of chicks they like, it will get you a bunch of different answers. For what it's worth, I use Klotz, but it seams like any thing meant for 2 stoke motor cycles works. Yamaha calls for a 24:1 ratio, and most people do not run it that thick, it seams like most people run 32:1 to 50:1, with most running 36:1 or 40:1 it seams like.

Don't we give china enough of our money?

Get well so bro.

The more you build it, the more it's going to cost you, in machine work, and parts you have you have to buy to hold up to the engine you plan on building. Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go??