00sheerzr

ok ive been trying to set the psi just right and i cant seem to find it, i know your only suppose to run a few psi but if you guy can give me a starting point that would be great

if you want more bottom end you need to either drop a tooth in front or go up in the rear visa versa, for every 3 teeth you change is the rear is equal to 1 in front soo you can go from a 41 to 44 in the rear and that would be the same as dropping on up front

i run amsoil dominator at 32:1 and works like a charm, i used it in my snowblower too lol

i would not run it at 80:1 i run 32:1 or you can even go 40:1 but noway will i go that extreme or your askin for trouble

looks good man il post pics of mine as well but your looks great man good job bro

well my stock plastic skid is held on by clamps that go around the frame and bolts to the skid they look like P clamps

mines does the same thing its not too big of an issue, but there are cusions in there between the gear and the basket that are worn look on ebay for the cusion but you cant change them , the only way to cange then is to buy an aftermarket basket and mate it up to the old gear with new cushions

what a fuckin scumbag man noone deserves to get fucked like that beside the people who do it to others, and from what i hear around this site it seams like your a good dude and didnt deserve this, i believe in karma so this kids guna get a kick in the ass sooner or later

im going back to the stock carb cross over tube, the tube sits in front of the carbs before the cylinders, i want to go back to the stock tube because if your carbs are synced properly you dont need it and it just clutters the engine compartment and alot of people have problems like you explained when they rip the intake boots and cause a lean condition causing damage to the engine, the boost bootle has nothing to do with the air filters. if worst comes to worst you will need to have the cylinders bored and a new set of pistons, but my real question is if he took it apart and inspected the rods and pistons why did he put it back together? you will be taking a chance whenever you buy something that has internal damage but if you comfortable fixing a 2 stroke engine which is pretty simple if you have done it before it should be a piece of cake, also if you do decide to pick it up to fix tear it apart and post pics there are tons of guys on this forum that are willing to help

a boost bootle just replaces the stock crossover tube between the 2 air intakes infront of the carbs, this doesnt really benefit in anyway but making the throotle response better if you carbs are out of sync,hhis reasons for the seizure definitly sounds like that was the reason it grenaded, when the boots tear or rip it cause it to run very very lean and probably melted the piston

o ya will thhe stock plastics clamps be strong enuff to hold up the skid???

im using damiand plated aluminum thats 1/8 in thick for the body skid and i used rolled stainless steel for the rear skid

well i just swapped out the 310s for 300s soo tomoro il try it out and do a plug chop

well first of all does the banshee run? that def.could of been the reason for a seizure or meltdown, you will really never know until you get it apart, more than likely the bottom end should be fine unless it was ran really hard or the piston shattered and scraps went everywhere, jetting is the most important thing to keep your bike reliable and if he didnt rejet for the pipes or the cold weather i would love to see what it looks like inside,but for the rite price you can have yourself a nice quad, the top end will run you about 200-250 but after you bore the cylinders you looking at another 100-150

well i had 320s in therefirst but it ran like shit and sputtered before the powerband and the plugs were really dark, when it warms up a bit im going to jet back down to 300s or even 290s and see what happens, or it may just be gearing because if i old it wot for a little it will creap into the powerband or if i blip te clutch quick it will take off

im in ct less than 500 feet above sea level, i have t5s and a k&n with a gutted lid with thedivider taken out, i have 27.5 pilots and 310 mains for the winter i put the pipes on in the winter, so i had to jet a few times, it was about 25 degrees out when it was jetted and its about 40 now , plug chop told me i was spot on

if stock gearing is tall then i think im going up 2 in the rear when the sprockets get worn, and if anything im alittle rich on top and timing is stock

well i took my banshee out for a rip down the street and i wound out real strong from 2nd to 5th but when i it 6th i could not get into the powerband without blipping the clutch for a second, when i did that it hit real strong, could this be a jetting issue, i think im right about perfect with the jetting, it doesnt bog anywhere in the rpm range and started 1st kick cold

i had a problem like that with an old warrior , check the valves and cam chain,my chain tensioner let go on my and the chain jumped a few teeth

i think i remember you from craigslist ur name dave?

hey is at all the parts you have im from ct also and im looking for an axle stock or extended, also looking for and adj timing plate, u got any good places to ride

ya i would say your alittle overdue for a rebuild, just make sure your using a good compression tester with a schrader valve in it and the fitting should be the same size as the sparkplug, 75 sounds really low i would double check that, do you have any trouble starting or running it?

I would def. get in there and take the clutch cover off you dont want any metal floating around in there if something is broken and thats the only was to find out, it could also be clutch related

If you take the seat (the little thing that hangs off the floats) off and you see kinda like a ring around the rubber part where it seats most likly it is worn too bad and its letting in more gas hence overflowing,and i dont recall a bushing on the brake pedal

damn was that your bike in the video and what kind of porting do you have?