Larry's Shee

For whatever reason the stock carbs have an issue of sticking if the slides get a little water in them. Seen a funny youtube vid of a banshee running away without rider just as he got it out of a mud hole. If you have water inside stator cover be sure to dry it out very well. If gasket is bad, use silicon on intall, make sure wires are sealed at cover and sheath is good.

Check inside stator cover. Clean/dry/grease plug caps.

If where and how you ride you feel you need an airbox, stick with stock. On a mild build you won't notice the diff. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Did you determine why the pistons burned? Leak test before teardown? Leak test after assembly?

What don't you like about them?

Stock carbs are good up to a 60+ build. You will go faster with good suspension than more powwa

Open your eyes

Gap pick-up coil? Clean the nubs?

Seeing that both plugs fire at same time, it's not the coil. Bad wire, bad connection at plug cap (trim) bad plug cap (replace) or problem at flywheel. Clean nubs on Fwheel, set gap .018 . If nubs are different, set largest gap to.018 (maybe sand high nub down)

Just messin with you a touch. Never heard of them refered to as points. Presume you have a 14 now? It will give a little better take off, but will loose a bit of top end. Do everything suggested, except the screws on the cyl. A little better description might help. Is it initial take off? You dumping clutch? Roll along and stab throttle? Same symptom all gears? Could be a simple tweek of the air screw.

That wouldn't be a deal breaker, in fact could be a great bargining chip. Spew some shit about cost, bla bla bla. Worst case would be having to cut bolt off.

Ya fucked up, should have got sprockets with teeth instead of points. They bite harder on takeoff.

Ya, the world would be perfect IF you could find a shee with all kinds of goodies, for cheep, in the price range you can afford. J's get a bad rap because with the two bushings/bearings being closer together a little bit of wear seems like a lot out at the spindle. Bushings are cheap, just replace them more often, NBFD. I think the 88 looks cleaner, and as mentioned the other doesn't have DG pipes, not that they would be much of an improvement. A basic top&bottom rebuild will cost $8-900++

That ^^^ is a good start. New plugs? Clean carbs? Set pick-up gap? Ohm pick-up coil? What brand stator did you have, and brand of new? New plug boots with new coil? Does it happen at certain rpms/throttle pos, or all through the range?

This ^ ^ ^ . Buy them at dollar store or Wally World. Did FMF cans this way, sounds great, will last forever, and won't get soaked and harden/burn.

Exactly !! Legal armed robbery!! When was the last time you saw "To serve and protect" on the side of their car ???

You can also look through this : http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Find simular set-up That's what I originally did and it worked for me. Might be rich but better than melted

Well, of course. Certainly not a Zilla EFI

Were it me I would list up what my set-up will be, elevation, avg ride temps, and someone will give you a "range" of jets. Never seen anyone use other than stock needle, mostly 27.5p. Way cheaper buying couple Mikuni than some "kit" that may or may not have genuine Mik jets, may have jets you will never use, worst of all is if they are not Mikuni jets, the actual size may be different than geniune, i.e. a 300 Mik may be different than an aftermarket 300 and will lead to lots of confusion and possibly melted pistons. In this size range difference between a 300 and a 310 is only .001" dia. It's like buying a carb rebuild kit, they only come with stock jets rarely do you ever need a needle, and only thing that wears is float needle/seat, maybe gasket goes bad.

In diagnosing a problem, you have to be willing to try ANYTHING/EVERYTHING double/triple check. There is actually a thread started by a "builder" about doing a ground wire. Do a google search.

Richer not leaner with cold. From "perfect" jetting about one main size for every 20* colder.

Jetting for 65/70* won't be enough for 20*

Run seperate ground from coil back to engine

Check that cables are seated in top of carbs, and in cable splitter. Double check EVERYTHING. Check float levels. It's got to be something simple YOU did putting cable on. Check that choke tube isn't cracked, broke, dryrotted, and that it is on BOTH carbs securely.