Larry's Shee

If you don't use "common" terms for parts of the engine, we (or at least I) have no fucking clue what you are talking about. There are no windows or sleeves in the head, cylinders yes. Do you see the problem with your description? IF you do have a cracked cylinder sleeve, it's junk. A Clymers Repair Manual is both helpful and educational.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+do+a+leakdown+test+%2B+Banshee+HQ Unless you are willing to test your engine, at least post pics of the hole in the piston when it melts down. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Runaway+2+stroke+engine Did you get a Clymers repair manual yet? There is some kind of pdf manual on here somewhere, no, I'm not going to google that for you too.

I would, but am actually trying to help, (some what) . Answer MY questions. Can you break an engine down to bare cases and put it back together? Your skill set determins how I would answer your questions.

Banshees don't actually have a "choke", it's an enrichening circut in carb.

Might need new O-ring on outside of needle valve seat to stop the leaking. New needle is a good start.

So, where did you get the domes? Who recomended that size? What fuel were you using? Other than backing plugs out, did it make unusual noises? (mostly for my own info)

Clymers manual FTMFW !!

That is known as a "runaway", or auto-ignition, plug gets so hot it's like a glow plug. Mostly caused by a lean condition. Hold brake, shift into gear, dump clutch to stall it. Highly suggest doing a leak test!!

http://www.bansheehq.com/bansheehq-sponsors/ If you are mechanical as a rubber spoon, send engine, wait, pay, get new engine. By some of your descriptions "hairline crack in the sleeve by the little windows in the middle of the Head". What the fuck does that even mean? So, what do you think you are capable of doing? BTW, get rid of that fucking boost bottle, odds are great that it caused your problem. To bad you didn't know enough to leak test before you tore it apart.

So, what you got in it total?

Don't know who makes them, or if available for Banshee, but is a style called MGC (max ground clearance) or gullwing. Taller tires front and back too.

Hey, I resemble that remark !!

Actually, best mod is turbo with a shot.

Well, noise could be lots of things other than the crank. Highly suggest getting a Clymers repair manual first, you'll need it no matter which way you go. Noise could be stator bolts hitting flywheel, something amiss under clutch cover, such as kick start idler gear, or other pieces. Do a compression test and post results. Throttle WFO, kick until gauge stops moving.

Not my worry, but I heard that Ben Dover is the mechanic there. My guess will be $1259.99 out the door. Let us know. Really tho, there is no engine easier to split than a Banshee, even this old, grey, caveman can do it.

Be careful, might just be cheaper to get a new crank.

No, it's like Tyler calling someone short.

Yes (maybe) on the split. Have it measured for out of round and taper. If more than half accepable tolerance, bore it.

Yuuuuck !! Clean timing nubs better, set gap, get new cover gasket/seal, check for cracks. Maybe seal where wires exit better if you do lots of water.

One or both cylinders and/or crank area is full of fuel. Pull plugs and pipes and let it evap out. Would be easier to pull carbs and stand it up on grab bar and let majority drain out.

Depends on machine and where and how vent is run

You have one carb or two?

What is your basic set up? Already have 27.5p, just wondering if should go 30? Same basic issue, hard start when has sat several days, ok if only few hrs.

Greyhound freight

Technically what you're describing is that it won't disengage. Could be grooves in clutch basket, bad pusher, worn rod, out of adjustment.