Larry's Shee

What would you take for just upper&lower arms? Ball joints must be good. Where in Mi are you? can pm me on answer on location, Would do personal p-up if close enough, I'm tween Pontiac/ Flint.

I don't understand? If you don't have time to obtain knowledge of what to do, how will you have time to do it ? There's more to it than just a few numbers. Everything has to work in harmony. Just my .02, oh wait that would have to be .06 with Oblama. BTW, the first set of jugs I did all I had was a bunch of die files. Looooooooooooooong time ago.

If turbo were the answer, it would be WAY more popular than big cyls and strokers.

Where do you have vent routed to? Both Tee together then go up to steer stem/ radiator area.

Sell the 250, then you'll have to ride it.

What are the trails like at St. Helen? Haven't been there since before I-75 was built. Ride Mio/Bull Gap, Got a little trailer up there.

Might check into industrial chemical strip, takes off everything but metal; rust, grease oil etc. Auto restoration places use this process.

X-2 on cleaning everything well. Check tors. My son flipped his into a REAL DEEP mud hole and I'm still in the process of putting it back together. Spent over two hrs. just cleaning the crank. Also check all electrical connections.

For a very, very long time , long before banshees came along, they were called "speed secerets" for a reason. Personally got more out of Jennings book than Bell, but both are very informative. If you want numbers Jennings will explain how to come up with your own. Personally have not ported a shee (yet) so cant offer suggestions on numbers.

Soon as I get hold of a camera (or my son + his phone) Will post more info latter. Thanks

My son had same problem, 13t front, don't know rear. To tight ,add link too lose. He found a place East side of Detroit for half link. Check with local shop they might be able to get one for you. As far as gearing try up or down one tooth on rear sprocket if you have them. If not I would go with half link. Might have to Google to find one. BTW, half link has roller on one end and pin on other. Not trying to be smart a$$, just trying to explain. The whole problem is that there just isn't enough adjustment on the axle.

Electric Mobility 'Lil rascal. H.D., long wheelbase. Barely used, maybe 1hr. Not cheap Chinese junk. Be willing to trade for Banshee or sell. Would need to be relativly near Detroit. Example- Chicago would be farthest I would go. Will consider all offers.

I would back out of the deal, I think it will cost more to ship than you sold them for.

Change gearing slightly or half link.

Can any one of us say we've NEVER done something stupid???? We learn from our mistakes as well as others. Good reason to keep clear of moving parts. I remember a kid in H.S. wood shop putting his finger up to a bandsaw to see if it was running!?!?!? DUHH!!!

He's refering to the freezing point. Just like a car, if it gets -20 you have to be protected.

Lot of variables here. How long do you want to use it? I think 2 sheets of ply would be least expesive. If you use regular ply, paint it first both sides, or use wolmanized ply. Do not use particle board or OSB (flake board/oriented strand board). Did trailer with regular ply and it lasted pretty good. Use 3/4" attach with self drill/tap screws. Be sure to re-grease wheel bearings also.

Gnarly Dude!!!!!! Please do not use gas for cleaning!!! Use kerosene or fuel oil if necessasary clean that off with nonflamibile brake cleaner. I see a high water mark on flywheel, X-2 on rtv on rubber gasket. Also seal around wires and check small rubber plug at bottom where RZ neutral wire would be. Use a 3-M scotch brite pad to clean it up. If there is bad rust on flywheel might want to replace, if not bad clean up and light paint job then clean off pick-up lugs on outside of flywheel. Getting flywheel off might be real bite!!!! good luck!!!

It depends wether your'e going to play or sanctioned racing. Check the orginization for regulations. I think with sled spikes you need inner tubes.

Clean all rust off of stator poles and lugs on outside of flywheel for pickup coil. Clean inside of flywheel.

Don't force it get a BIGGER HAMMER. If it were me I'd pop the clutch cover and check the kicker and ideler gear. No sense trying to start it if something is fubar. .02.

Try water wetter or engine ice, get new rad cap (maybe one with temp guage (search)) and use over flow bottle. Maybe error on fat side with jetting. JMO.

Clean all poles on stator, inside of flywheel, and two lugs on outside of flywheel, gap pickup at .018-.020. That's what it took to fix son's shee. It appeared to have spark on both sides.

pAGE 147. yOU WILL BE ABLE TO CHECK "C" & "D". con rod side clearance, small end free play. That's about it. Page 134 fig 61 shows small end free play. Hows your build going? Glad to see you got a manual.

WTF? Looks like nox explosion.