Larry's Shee

If you have pistons off also check crank/rod.

new or used?

How are you riding before you shut it down? Are you shutting fuel off? Also, what throttle posistion are you at when you stab it?

Well 2 brgs @$16 or risk not having anything to work from or sell off

Exhaust leaves the cylinder at 1200+ degrees, hmmmmmmmmmmmm Long as it's not puking coolant

Better Q is why do you want to change them. More info will help a lot, and get you a better answer.

You're lucky there was no major damage, have heard some horror stoies about it here. Also lucky you can repair it, on my son's the PO welded the washer to the shaft , presume the clip groove was fubar.

Is the tors box unplugged? If you have parking brake unplug it's brain. After all this start ohming alll electrical, check switches, check pick-up coil gap. How is flywheel key? Are poles on stator clean of rust? Check all grounds are clean/tite. Check/clean all wire connections. Did you put pilot jets back in carb? Main jet washer? Slosh baffel? Did you set float level? Did you reset idle air screws?

As Jereme said bowl with little"BB" on front side goes on left carb. Also check that slides are in correct carb, the angled "slice" (cutaway) faces the air cleaner. What about TORS?

Adjusting that little tab changed your float level. With carb upside down float level from gasket surface to top of float is 20-22mm(.80-.88"), Top of float will be bottom when flipped right side up.

That's what I'm talking about . An air strip and trails are two totally different worlds.

First Q I have is why you had to get an engine? Next is what you want to do with your ride? Then how much you going to spend? As far as "matching" parts, that's a big part of overall performance. Keep reading/searching. Look at what others are using. There is a thread somewhere that lists most pipes and where they make power. Also your ability to tune should guide where you're headed. Start simple and build from there. Advance timing, improve air flow, add pipes, good reeds. This could go on forever. Learn from others mistakes.

For shits and giggles why don't you check that your front shocks are working. Maybe your left shock is bent, or both. Prove Darwin wrong and wear a helmet.

Do you have a Clymers Repair Manual or have downloaded a manual? Have you performed a search? If you have read any threads on here you'll notice that information on your set-up is needed. What did you adjust on carbs? My guess is that your carbs are now out of sync. Try to describe what exactly what it is doing.

Are you getting pieces or motor ready to drop in?

Use mix oil designed for that temp, no bean oil for sure

One is waterpump. Replace the O-ring on tube that goes from pump to hose. Other one is clutch pusher.

Depends what a "mild" port job is. More info? Check your crank the best you can while jugs are off. Look at your reeds real close too. Now would be a good time to up-date to good dual stage. If you replace them, port the cages while apart. Use loctite on screws.

X2 on what sringer said. I've got FMF golds that I packed the silencers with six stainless steel pot scrubbers, not to loud but a nice raspy lower tone.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Are you going to "out" the shop so no one else here goes there? Threaten to stand on the sidewalk to show prospective customers how they don't stand behind their work. Sidewalk is public property. Then send him a linc to this thread.

Try richening air screw 1/4 - 1/2 turn

It is true the boost bottle will cause boots to crack, I thought it was just a myth I used 2 pvc (CPVC) caps that fit good, 3-Bond to glue 'em in and clamps for shits and giggles. I can name lots of motors that don't use crossover.

WTF? No bushing for thumb throttle?

Just saw a sweet one, replaces back half of clutch lever clamp. Look on E-gay