Larry's Shee

Welcome to BHQ !! First part I would buy is a Clymers repair manual, bout $25. My coil mounts to the frame tube above/ forwards of the plugs, other side of the loop that wires etc run thru. X-2 on cdi box, if wires are long enough. What did you pay if I may ask? Get any plastic with it? Does it run? Looks to be decent otherwise!! Be sure where the coil mounts you have clean/bare metal.

What silencers wii work with these? Where you located to consider shipping?

Welcome to BHQ !! Buy a Clymers repair manual , use the search function, follow threads of interest to see what is needed for problem solving.

First off, don't be intimidated by two little carbs. Start rich and work your way down, plugs are cheaper than pistons. If you have a Clymers they have a good section on jetting with a diagram as to which circut relates to a certain throttle opening. Also you can look thru this thread http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361, might find more simular set-ups. Did you notice the difference between the two answers? One is at 1800' , other at sea level. Other than your initial settings, it's best to only change one thing at a time. Here's that diagram http://www.pjmotorsports.com/jetting-tuning.html

Also check that the sprocket hub or axle isn't stripped if chain/sprockets are good.

Get a Clymers manual or download pdf and fix it yourself. These things are only slightly harder than a tri-cycle to fix A stealership is going to give it to you in the ass w/no lube.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/mcy/2629502829.html

The BB is how they plug the outside of the hole after they drill for part of the choke circut.

Just unplug the tors "brain" on left frame by tank

did you unhook the tors brain box?

No problem, I'm still finding things on here

Pull the petcock and clean, if there's a lot of junk might want to clean tank. Check that cap is venting and vent hose is clear. Check all carb vent hoses. Double check float levels. Around here there are little mud dauber wasps that love holes that size to lay eggs in.

I would think that if there was an advantage to doing it , it would be all over this forum

Have you comepletely cleaned carbs? Is the bowl with a little "BB" on the left carb? Are the cutaways on slides facing the air box? They can go in wrong carbs the wrong way. Choke tube on? Do you have the TORS box on? Are timing lugs on flywheel clean and gap set? Would help a lot if you answer ALL questions that we have asked to help narrow it down.

Look around a little, top of one of the sections it's stickied.

What is the cost of this, and do I send both shafts with gears on or just certain ones?

Might also be a bent wheel

Sure it's 340? Not 240? Did you put it in? Air lid? Biggest thing is how does it run? Did you rejet with pipes? Had stock pipes before? Higly doubt it would even run with a 340 and stock, even with pipes and nothing else 340 would be fat unless your in the desert.

Probably get away without even removing head. Use something like a straw. Pop it in the plug hole.

Check the crank closely to be sure that's not what lunched the piston

If you have adjustable timing plate make sure it is +4 not-4. Set pick-up coil gap. Make sure ground is clean and tite, check ground for coil, check all connections areclean. Are carbs clean?

Was just asking. Being it's never been torn down eliminates overly wide exhaust porting. Any idea how many hours on it?

How do you know you had no leaks? What kind of oil you using? Might just be worn out. Finish draining coolant before you pull jugs.

might be o-ring on pipe to water pump leaking.