Sammy

Owned... "I got confused and I feel better getting it off my chest" This feels like an AA meeting.

Yea same guy.

I ran a 44 tooth rear sprocket with the stock rear skid and an aftermarket no problems. Just had to remove the plastic guide from under the bottom of the sprocket.

Ummmm.... The link to the kit you posted only contains the topend( 68mm cylinder, pistons, and gaskets). No crankshaft assembly included. It states for use with a 4mil/115mm rod crankshaft. If you look on Vito's page the whole setup sells for right at a grand. Ebay is very deceiving sometimes.

Im pretty sure in my first response to the OP I specified using a 4 mil crank. In my second response I again specified build a 4 mil STROKER setup, meaning using a 4 mil longer stroke crankshaft. I'm no expert either but I'm pretty sure he never specified that he was using a 4 mil crank. The only things he specified were 28mm carbs and T5's.

Yea sure its 4 mil build.... a 4mil over bore. When most people build a 4 mil setup they use a 4 mil crank not a 68mm cylinder. A 4 mil stroker with ported stock cylinders would be much more suited for trail use imo.

Well I wouldn't see why not. I wouldn't expect as much of a gain compared to a true 4mil setup(4 mil crank).

Tracks are open here in Alabama as long as its about 50 degrees. Which is normally until the 1-2 week in December.

Go with three HD and three OEM springs. Just when you install them make sure you put them in HD/OEM/HD/OEM/HD/OEM. I'm running all six HD and everything is adjusted properly and Im not having any issues. Be sure the clutch basket isn't grooved or anything like that.

Would my results be skewed because of me testing on a cold engine? This top end probably has about 55-60 hours on it. It runs strong, but 155psi does seem low to me for sure. It ran good on mixture of 111/93 @ 50:1. I ran the mixture 2 gals 93/1 gal of 111.

Thanks Mull... Would I be safe to add a little more timing. Perhaps 1-2 degrees more and still use the 93 octane or would I have to add a dash of 111 to it?

I have a stock port stock stroke setup. It has a coolhead w/ 19cc domes, +4 timing, v force 3 reeds, pods, and lrd rfx's. I compression tested it, I got 155psi per side on a dead cold engine. I've been using straight leaded 111 mixed 50:1 with Golden Spectro. I was wondering if I even need this much octane. Would it be ok to use 93 or would I need to blend in some 111 with the 93?

Well I got my setup together. Its in my sig. Gearing I went with 13/40, Tires I opted for the TSL/ATV its a 22x12.5, I mounted them on Douglas .125's . I'm currently running a g-force axle in the rear until I get an oem or warrior axle. I just took the little extension spacers off and flipped the wheel hubs to the outside so its about 2 inch narrower than stock right now. I really want to do a stock stroke aggressive trail/hill shoot port with some 28 or 30mm carbs over the next few months but for now I'm happy with it. The LRD's have a solid mid range punch with good top end pull so it gets a little front end happy about halfway out of most stuff.

Im pretty sure Vitos has the "red" needle for stock carbs, and trinity has needles for the stock carbs they are both supposed to be decent parts.

Damn this is the third thread posted trying to identify the same exact pipes within the past few months.

Not true at all, 28pwk's will feed a 4 mil trail setup just fine when setup properly.

28's will suit you just fine.

Some like the 30 OKO's some don't .I would believe the 33's to be to large on a stock stroke, play ported setup. My choice goes to 28mm PWK's. Hands down great carb for all around use and will be used on my ported hillshoot setup when completed.

Im guessing the jetting will end up around 330 MJ/27.50 PJ/3rd clip NJ. I would not even strap it down without knowing what mains are in the carbs. That one pull under load could ruin your build. Better safe than sorry if you ask me. As for the pilot jets they only come it steps of 2.5. So 27.50-30.00-32.50. Good luck....

I was gonna mention RDZ also, but then again he's not known for his "Hill Shooter" port jobs either. My vote goes to F.A.S.T, HJR or Wildcard. When my personal cylinder get done. Jeff will be behind the Scalpel.

If I live anywhere near Kansas the only man that would touch my bike would be Jeff at F.A.S.T.

Do you know what mains are currently in the carbs? Wichita is around 1300 ft ASL so the jetting will need to be a little leaner than average for SL. I would start no leaner than 330 just to be on the safe side. Its easy to jet down but not so easy to redo that fresh topend.

List all your mods, elevation and current temps. We can give you a pretty damn good idea where to start. If its just .5mil over bore with pipes, reeds, and a filter with no lid and your elevation is below 1000 ft. I would start around a 330 main 27.50 pilot, 4th notch down on the needle, 1.5 turns on the screws and set your idle like I described in the above post and go from there. You can use carb cleaner around your intake, reeds, carbs and seals to check for air leaks.

It maybe a lean condition keeping it from Idling properly. Check it for air leaks, and try to at least get the jetting in the ball park before hitting the rollers. It'll save you time and money in the long run.

With the Tors kit. To set the Idle you have to hold the throttle open to get it to idle the desire rpm and set the screws to where they just barley hold pressure on the slides with the throttle held where you want it. At least that's the way my motion pro instruction described it.