kawa110

I have two durablue axles, each have a different size axle nut. I had issues keeping the stock axle nuts tight as well as the durable’s I purchased 1/2 drive crows feet for each of my durablue axles. Only way I have been able to keep them tight. Don’t “crush”the carrier bearings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I got snipers chromed….here in so cal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hour drive is well worth a good tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Timmy!!! Good to see you active on HQ again… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any one of those covers are great!!! Nothing wrong with them. Yes bend the lever but it is not drastic, no foot placement is fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji897] [emoji897] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should sit and fit like OEM stem did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read through this look at the photos You can easily make your own list https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/topic/140912-banshee-bottom-end-assembly-walkthrough/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don’t seem to be one that wastes time doing something that’s not needed….. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some of us add a ground from a solid point on engine to a solid point on the chassis in addition to OEM grounding points. Pretty sure I seen it on Claude’s bike. Others will say not necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OEM everything. Ensure proper grounding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worth it. The stick style stabilizers make a small difference but noticeable. The puck style are better. GPR used to offer a bar mounted puck Scott’s used to as well…I’m looking for bar mounted parts from Scott’s. I have most the parts,need bar clamp. GPR or FAST had a pick style that mounts lower on frame toward lower part of stem. Worth it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would just find a rd400 or 350 that is blown or a basket case and build a street bike so u can utilize all the components opposed to modifying exhaust, engine mounts, potentially wiring harness, control cables, adding a cooling system, ect… If you can weld yfz hybrids are common. Member tfaith here on the website can build you a custom chassis with correct geometry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get a wiring harness and elect components with the engine, exhaust pipes? Put it in a lightweight street bike chassis. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The trans will setup for street speeds. Banshee chassis don’t have best suspension geometry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Regardless of bolt pattern either hubs fit same axle. Need to measure your current hubs to ensure they are matching. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends on the year. Ask google. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leak down before ran? Leak down before tear down after failure? What was timing set at? Both plug straps burnt? One pistons had hole?

Flex seal will not help you. I see pcs of material missing on the “lower case” half. Wher the bolt threads into Buy new cases! Attempt to have somebody CLEAN, weld, drill and tap ur current cases. Try some kind of two part epoxy (not Jb weld) fill the area, tap and drill yourself. Good luck. The RTV/silicone(silly) is not doing you any good. Remove cover, clean well. Put greased paper gasket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fireball long travel EGC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why not get fireball to go with the fireball a arms you bought? What steering stem you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fireball works with elka to provide the correct shocks. Call and talk to them. Same with roll design. Get a steering dampener if you’re serious about XC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t go wrong with fireball Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Contact axis or PEP. Have your measurements, and specs ready, and have a set built. If I had the pockets for AXIS thats what I would have or PEP I have two long travel fireball EGC with (used to me) elkas. One bike has remote resi, the other has the attached resi. They both are very plush(I need to get them tuned better) current springs are for heavier rider, the shocks get “spongy” then “springy” through EXTREMELY deep whoops. Other than that I like em for what I paid. My rears are both rebuilt shocks, from TCS last year. Updated seal heads and proper weight spring. They are perfect! one -2 avenger swing arm, one -1.5 fireball swing arm, No sponge, not really fatigued when “hot”. I’m sure I could dial them in a little better with more seat time. Again if I could go axis or pep I would. And I guess maybe the elka rear long travel link(if it works well with shorter swing arms, I have no clues) I don’t do any Huge ramps. I ride wide open desert XC mostly. Johnson valley California, District 37 AMA areas, red mountain area. And of course Glamis for Dunes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk