Justintoxicated

It's pretty dialed in now, I think I may need a little larger main but it's healthy as is, I'll probably play a bit because I'd rather run a little rich than borderline lean. But yea, it's running great now!

I pulled the entier Lid off mine... Now I went to the next step and got clamp ons.... Of course, others have drilled holes into their lids, or at least removed the shitty snorkle thing. I'm partial to K&N's but thats because I ride 90% sand and 10% dirt and the K&n works fine for me, Bascialy K&N flows more but supposedly foam will filter better. If you go with the foam make sure you clean it everytrip.

These one man operation places do get buisy, I also went with Jim at Passion instead of Dan. He told me I would have to wait a few months and I wanted it done because my motor was already apart, and Jim could have it ready for the upcoming season. For me it was either take a chance with Jim or don't ride all season, or don't get porting. Dan was my first choice. I also called GRR and they got back to me a day after I had sent my cylinders out to Jim. If I could do it all again though I have no regrets. All 3 of these places are reputable good places to get your porting, I will more than likely go back to Jim when I'm ready for a 7 mil I love his 12 port! I took a chance at the time but he has proven himself to me and to others by. If I was going to send my stuff to Dan, I don't think I would get the Duner port, I'd probably go for something more extere, but thats just my needs. I can't wait for next roostfest, where is it going to be?

1st Make sure your parking brake is not on. 2nd Open up the carb on the side it is missing and poke out the pilot jet with the end of a Twistie tie like the kind you get from the grocery store. Carbs are not that bad to mess with but kinda a PITA with the stock setup. When My bike had this problem it wa s aplugged pilot jet, the hole is unbelievably small so it does not take much to get stuck in there. And this willc ause one side to run like you are suggesting and then clean up after about 1/4th throttle.

second that

Engine ice is good stuff

that does nto sound right at all, unless you have some serious engine work... I used to run slightly rich with 320 K&N and Fattys at glamis, if your running foam 300-280 should be about right... if your still breakin in the engine and not going WOT your main jet won't be fully used anyways. I would break it in for 2 tanks with the 300's then check the plugs and go from there....I can't imagine a 300 would be too far off.

Wow those pipes look mean what about those Shearer pipes? Vs Rockets? Where do the Rockets start making power? I love my Fatties because they kick in fast and then I can jsut keep shifting untill I'm in 6th...Pipe performance also varies with motor work...Porting + SSts is not as nice as Fattys + porting....Typicaly.........I'm wanting some with more top now that I'm done with the engine work...

I checked my petcock after 4+ years there was all this plastic shit floating around in my tank and I have no idea what from, it was like clear plastic crap so it can't hurt to check...My guess is it was there since the beginning....A little sand in there also... I said screw this and cut the screen out compleatly and replaced with a nice paper fuel filter.... Also the Caps lock is fucking annoying as hell so please don't use it.

solder them if yoru going to do that........ What is the point in removing the key anyways? I got the under the seat thing from duncan racing. Nice and polished when I get to look at it

I want a bigger tank too. I remember the old days when I was little on my little Blue Yamaha 80 with no suspension.... May have been slow but I could ride from superstition to Ocatillo and back on a tank of gas! Good thing I always ride with other Banshees now and we all run out about the same time

stock jets with air filter and Pipe? your crazy man your going to need to richen her up almost for sure... I have done the choke tube thing also so don't feel too bad.

I just got done having this problem, is it a poping though or a misfire? I'd have to change my plugs every hour to get my banshee to run WOT. I tried 5 different jet sizes 340's 350' 360's 370's 380's and went from lean to super rich and had the exact same problem every time...every time I thought I had fixed it because i also changed the plugs...then sure enough it came back....Had this problem ever since Jim did my motor and I stuck with the stock carbs. I only had the problem at WOT after running the plugs through a little less than 1/2 a tank. Ended up buying new reeds, manifold, and carbs and now I'm happy. No more problems... Just went out last weekend and it just went from having your problem to a real screamer after I finaly got the recomended parts. Not a very good solution for you I guess.. I have a feeling it may have been the TORS unit, Try disconnecting ALL TORS plugs first. I think it was either that or my reeds were shot or I messed them up when porting them. Edit, just was your not running any TORS...my Guess is your reeds then.

I get this problem every time I refill empty carbs, I just smack them with a screwdriver handle multiple times and go for a ride usualy that frees them up...Otherwise it's just a few screws to take off the bottem of the carbs to clean them out, no throttle cable removal necessary, just detach from airbox and manifold, and it's the 4 screws in the bottem....every easy fix jsut a pin in the ass . or with cerain carbs you an just rotat them to open up the bottem, but good luck doing that with the stock ones!

well, does it really matter if it does not affect performance?? I mean I don't have clear fuel lines for mine so I would never know if there was a bubble there or not anyways....

the one I'm trying to use is a large paper one, the old one I had had the brass shit inside it. Dueal petcocks are expensive last tiem I checked...

the problem with the smaller ones seems to be that they restrict flow, and sand has gotten past it when i used it before, and thats before I cut the screen out of the petcock....

I still can't figure out a way to route the Fucking Fuel lines................................Damn after all that work..... Anyone know the best way to mount the fuel lines on 33m PWKs with a 3 inch fuel filter after the petcock? I tried going in front and behindthe carbs but I either have unbalanced splitter tube, fuel lines htting the pipes, or a kink in one of the lines..........

Im just going to hit the bottle beer isnt working fast enough anymore

I cannot figure out a decent way to mount my fuel line sto the carbs after installing a billet manifold and PWK33's If fucking hopeless...I ripped the screen out of the petcock so that I could flow more fuel, and added a hgue fuel filter I posted a picture of before the forum went down.. Anyways the problem was that the fuel filter was higher in the front than the back so the T was on top of the carb tops, so I have been trying to lower it for 4 or 5 hours today and now it's pointed down but I have to kink the fuel line to get it in placce and everything is jsut fucked up now and it won't idle...But before the fuel tubing was also hitting the Pipe so I can't leave it like that either. Honestly I'm so fucking fed up with this new carb, reed, manifold Clamp on setup I'm ready to pawn everything off on ebay and switch back to stock everything. The clamps ons were supposedt o be easier, but I had to dremel off the stock airbox mounts so the filters woudl fit and now the outerwear hits the pipe so thats not going to last very long! I wish I had left the god damned thing stock with pipes and K&N cause all this other shit is a bunch of crap. Nothing fits like it is supposed to and nothing is easier than before. I'm so fucking frusterated I'm about to sell the whole damn bike...............

Yup, especialy with Castor.... Drain the tank, I just usally drain the carbs by letting it idle untill it cuts out....Close enough for me...

Nightrider, Yamalube isn't bad like I said. My friend rides more than I do, same area, I ran yamalube for 4 years before I lost compression mixing 32 to 1. My friend ran Belray MC1 for 5 years mixing 50 to 1 and he tore his apart to get it ported, it still ran fine though! My engine had very little deposits like you said, but believe it or not his had even less....I tried Castor oil, and in 3 rides I had mroe deposits than after 4 years of the yamalube. I guess it's better sometimes to have depositis if you can make your topend last a little longer, but then again, if you can have the best of both worlds then i will run that. I had some deposits in the pipes fromt eh yamalube, nothing horrendous, my friend had 0 deposits! WHen I tried castor, I thought my pipes were going to plug up in no time (40-1) I would also like to try the amsoil 100-1, my guess is that stuff burns very clean also.

good thing they are in driving distance of me

white chicks give the best head...

just tell them you had it around your arm, you just were not wearing it properly...I don't think the law specifies HOW you have to wear one, as long as you are wearing one in some manner....