Ieat4strokes

have u ever considered lower gearing.... -1 up front, or up a couple teeth in the rear will help u on the hills and help keep u on the pipe. i ride some very tight trails and love to climb hills as well!

thanks ! will try!

grizz.....my man..... take a look at my sig, that is why its there because its usually the first thing people need to know.... so if im only a half turn out on the airscrews then i need to go larger right?? ill try it

With my mods @ sea level i had a bog of idle with the 45's.... adjusted screws out got worse went in till 1/2 turn ran better so i stepped up to 48's...... now its doing the same.... will only give a crisp of idle responce @ 1/2 turn out from seated.... should i go bigger? or am i going the wrong way and should go smaller than 45? thanks

Have a brand new never installed Modquad polished stainless grill for fullbores......Ordered it when i first got my shee and didnt realize it was for fullbore plastics...... I need a complete kicker with the bottom part that clamps to the splined shaft. i would post pics but im at work on my cell.....

Im needing a kicker complete with the bottom I guess you would call it "mounting stub" (the peice that clamps on to the splined shaft coming out of motor. My Kicker will not stay on the stub, keeps vibrating off. Neone have one? or know where I can get one? thanks Brad

Im needing a kicker complete with the bottom I guess you would call it "mounting stub" (the peice that clamps on to the splined shaft coming out of motor. My Kicker will not stay on the stub, keeps vibrating off. Neone have one? or know where I can get one? thanks Brad

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Im guessing the shaft is worn, I tried a new bolt and the kicker had too much play on the shaft and it just wore the threads down on the new bolt until it was flush with inside of kicker and came off again.... but yea im sure its the little nub thats worn......all i need is that piece, the bottom part of the kicker.... so if anyone has one.... lemme know. Thanks

can i retap the hole with the next biggest size? would that work? or do i have to get a whole new assembly, shaft gear n all?

the kicker slides on and off the shaft even with a bolt through it......i tried new bolt with a nut on the backside and it still came off again...

went out riding with a few friends today and went to start it and kicksrtart lever was gone..... luckily i found it. just put it in pocket until i needed to start it so i wouldnt loose it. Whats the trick to keeping it on??? what have u guys used? i tried a new bnolt cuz the threads on old bolt were worn were it goes by shaft and allowed it to slide off.. what can i do?

dajoge u freak nasty bastard! ahhahhahah and then loco dont retaliate....hmmmm raises some flags..... Im just sayin.... lol

lmmfao! yall are a damn trip! hahah yea the whole time he was talking i was wtf ever cuz i knew that if it was that great of a thing i wouldve heard about it here... I think he was just trying to get my buisness back because he didnt say anything about a long rod until i told him that i was getting my portwork and 4mill setup done out of state by another builder (Brandon). now i just buy parts from him and thats it. as far as work i wouldnt let him touch my motor after he said theres no difference in the portwork for a stock stroke and the porting for a 4 mill.... i knew then that the assclown wasnt as great as everyone thinks around here. as stated before 2 of the guys i ride with have portwork by him and my stock non ported shee will hang right there with both of em. and if i get the hole shot they cannot catch up. i have used every trick possible from you guys on here to build my stock bike into what she is today and im a real competitior here. its sad really because they swear i have portwork stroker cranks etc because of how good it runs, God forbid i actually do get it done and scream by them like a damn jet plane. hahahah thanks for all the comments and remarks, its just reassurance that i will be going to Brandon instead of getting anything done local. and thanks to this site and Brandon specifically for giving me the knowledge i have and not just getting it done here like everyone else and being dissapointed.

Just when im thinking im learning a lil about our beloved shee my local builder threw a monkey wrench in all my acquired wisdom lol... I was at shop picking up oil, water pump seal and impeller and we were discussing all the things ive done since he bored my cylinders a few months ago.... i told him i was gonna do a 4mill with porting soon and be done... he said dont, just do a long rod, it will give me alot more torque and power where i want it for the type of riding we do. he said a 4 mill will scream but the "long rod" will have alot more power down low and basically that a 4 mill dont make that much power over a long rod. he said with this "long rod" i could take off in 2nd with stock gearing without feathering clutch and with no gas.;.. so i was like so dont do the 4 mill then he said he wouldnt. he said"Brad, ive been porting and working on banshees for 15 years, ive done it all up to 18 mill drag bikes" u wont b dissapointed and for trailridng and hillclimbing and the occasional race we do around here u will like it alot better" What the f*ck is he talking about, ive never heard anyone here mention a long rod unless it was for a stroker? Is he talking about changing rod length on a stock crank? I cant say i question the mans skills as a builder because everyone within a 100 mile radius swears by him but i just didnt know what he was referring to. thanks

yes the steam is coming from the hose by stem i believe.... well i actually have another thread on here about the milky oil, yes i did have it but i thought it was due to where im riding at on the weekends.... its a bunch of rock bottom creeks you have to cross and even one trail leads down the creek and we took that route as well. A few other people said they have the same issues with thier shee after riding down there. so i drained oil... put in some cheap stuff ran it artound the yard, drained it, and put maxima mtl back in.... so far so good but i havent rode it much, time will tell Tony - yea my resivoir doesnt like to hold any coolant above the low mark, it will spit it out the tube up front, until it gets to the low mark and then itll stay there.... i actually filled it to the full mark today and it was steaming again, so this could be it? radiator is full everytime i check it...

Gotta quick question.... while riding some tight trails my shee will overheat in a matter of 30 mins or less..... I smell antifreeze and see the steam. As long as i got her stretched out and some room to breathe she does fine, no problems at all. Timing is at +4, 130lbs compression in both cylinders, 93 octane. Jetting isnt lean, a bit on the rich side, 165 mains, 45 pilots, on 28 PWKS unported motor.... How would i know if my fluid is circulating? Im probally going to take radiator off tomorrow and flush it real good and go with engine ice instead of coolant....fins are in real good shape and theres no damage to the radiator...Thanks for any suggestions or help. Brad

Just a thought..... the ceramic paint traps heat internally, thus defeating the purpose of a radiator dissipating heat. i would think it would be cooler to the touch externally but would be effective in increasing internal temps (coolant) as well. ceramic coatings dont actually reduce heat but just reflect. Its mainly used for headers etc to keep from burning wires lines etc.... just my .02, i could be totally off but something to think about.

Welcome to the site! Great set of guys here (well most) lol .....that know there stuff! Thats one clean ride there man You will enjoy it no doubt. I just got my first shee a few months ago, a 2000 just like it for 1100, told the wife it only needed a rebuild 300 bucks tops....Well its turned into about 2500 ive put into it, it def is a sickness! P.S. As long as you use proper grammer and spell half ass decent you will make it through the lions den. hahhahahahahahah

stock cylinders are at 65mm bore now, should i port these or find me some with more life left? how many bores do i have left in these? thanks

well i followed the instructions on that link as far as dialing in my pilots.... on my 45's in order for me to get a crisp off idle rev im only at .5 turn out....any further and it bogs. so i need the next size up? 48's?? and i put my 165's back in because 158 had me way to lean, plugs were a light grey/ white....but all i did was tool aroundthe yard a few times with them in..... only thing is finding if im too fat on my main, it revs clean and good till top but in like 5th and 6th it dont want to rev ALL the way, almost like i could ride in 6th forever.... it should rev out making me want to let off gas right? or i should just quit guessing and do a plug chop? lmfao

appreciate it tyler......the links were very helpful.....

thanks alot for the tips..... just use a socket big enough to seat on the outer race right?

Get u some Eagle One Wadding Polish...... U can get it from autozone, advanced auto etc etc..... Comes in a little tin can, its soft like pillow stuffing so it will not scratch chrome at all but has some chemical on it that removes rust, worked great for me, ive used it for years, it actually helps rust from coming back. good stuff.

I also added the vforce 3's today when i put the 158's in.... adding reeds shouldnt affect my jetting right? To try to clear up my post above.... Im at sea level, when i got the carbs it had 45 pilots and 165 mains.... I added the T5's and vforce 3's and carbs.... slight bog off idle but runs great up top... smoked a little more than before and stronger smell of gas from exhaust. So I took advice on going to 160's but local dealer was out, they had 158's, I got them and now it bogs worse off idle like its not getting gas then after a few blips of the throttle it seems to catch up but then idles high after i let off gas then after several seconds it idles back down... then when I give it gas after it has settled down it bogs again..after it "catches up" i can give it gas and it dont bog just when it settles down to where its supposed to idle....It has JJH needles, middle clip, 1.5 turns out on air screw....Thanks guys