Ieat4strokes

Yea i thought the same too, waaaaaay to many peeps on here saying that a 4 mill port is different than a standard stroke port for it not to be true. Well it just sold me on sending my jugs out to Jeff @ FAST or Jim @ Passion.......when i get all the pieces of the puzzle for my 4mill build. Thanks

T5's or T6's..........anyone with some, ill buy straight out or trade my fattys with power core 2's......... Thanks

Local builder said that if I port cylinders now that I will not have to port again for 4mill...... I told him I read here otherwise that the port timing durations etc will be off. He said it was so minimal that u wouldnt notice if it was.....He also said pistons (795's) compensate for that???? Is he full of sh!t or what??? :ermm:

I tested the stator via the white plug by airbox..... the GREEN and RED wires. I got nothing...... no reading at all. Tested the pickup wires from same harness plus and got 111. I check the ground and its crimped in that metal loom. so im sure its getting connection... is there any way to test stator itself? from/on the actual stator so i can at least know if the stator has a reading and that would let me know its in the wiring? Thanks agian

yes i took out plug and touched it to head......in pitch black darkness and no spark. When i said connections were soldered i meant the wires going to stator itself, that are actually connecting to stator. The harness is completely unaltered as the bike was totally stock from the guy i got it from with exception on pipes. It still has all factory plugs, heat shrink tubing etc. and no splicings or added wires. I agree totally that just by changing timing plate shouldnt have killed my ignition. As far as pickup goes i used a buisness card, magazine cover and even notebook paper doubled over and nothing still..... the only think i moved electrically involved during the whole process was the stator... can i use some elec cleaner on the stator and resolder or add solder to the wires connecting to stator to ensure theres no loose wires? i even changed out plugs to rule that out. damn i wish one of u guys were close to tennessee. lol

when u say stator, cdi side. what exactly do u mean. i unplugged the white connector and tested the red and green wires coming from stator on the "male" plug. Also did the same for the wires from the pickup on the male plug. Pickup read "111"....... Stator read "OL" which im guessing is open lead? I took coil off of bike and measured the neg and pos terminals on coil and it was reading "1" and from the neg post to each spark plug cap i got zero......ive never used a meter to be honest. never have had to. im sure something had to have came loose i will double check soldered connections, all wires are still connected just maybe one is loose or weak, ill do ur method and test and wiggle.......

ok heres the rundown.... got me a manual from a friend. followed it to a T. usuing a fluke meter i got 111 from the pickup and nothing from stator..... also got 1 from primary side of coil and nothing from secondary (measuring caps from neg terminal on coil.... so is my coil and stator bad??? wtf

yes i used a flywheel puller, i dont have a key switch never had one since ive owned it. The on/off switch was in the on position. i still have tors, can i unplug it to disable it just to rule that out? if so can i just unplug at the tors controller close to the coil? i have a tors eliminator on the way..... but yes i suppose i put the key in the crankshaft right? it sits in the slot on shaft like a boat? just dont understand why i wouldnt have spark. even if the timing was 180 off it would still spark.... something happened, this sucks ass.... had a big day planned tomm

c'mon i know im not the only person in the world this has happened to....... how do i test the stator and pickup? could one have crapped out on me during timing plate install?

i couldnt find gap feelers no where so i just used buisness card......so im not exactly sure. but its not firing at all, took out a plug and nothing. dumb question but is there any thing i couldve shorted out taking stator off? i thought i couldve swore i seen a spark when i was using pliers to take off the 3 screws holding stator in.... its not energized right? this stator concept is new to me as usually everything i deal with has a battery. i have a fluke meter what could i check and what readings should i look for? thanks again for all the help.

plug in stator? all my wires going to stator is soldered. i didnt have to unhook anything. just took out screws and moved it out the way to take off stock plate. then installed new advance plate and used stainless allenheads to secure everything back in place. would using stainless make it not ground? thats the only thing i changed. this is really confusing! its gotta be something small. is there any way pickup or stator couldve crapped out on me? ran fine before this.

ok i installed chariot advance today, timing mark set at the 4th line from zero... +4 degrees. i aligned it with crack in case, set pickup using a buisness card and it will not fire. ive double checked and everything looks ok....just the way it was and still nothing. whats wrong!?

hahahahahahah @ real mutha bitch! ahah man u aint lying. dude i got the banshee from mustve rode through ALOT of water. EVERY screw, bolt, etc in the was rusted all to shit. i bought a 250ft lb elec impact for 59.95 and was told by my local builder to make sure its screwed in all the way. pluged up the impact and zing! right off without a prob.... now all the little screws holding the stator wires to the old timing plate were rusted beyond help....i had to cut them off with a dremel....im slowly replacing everything i take off with stainless allen heads, gotta make another trip to fastenal in the morning to get a few more bolts for the stator and ill be done....thanks to everyone for all tha tips and for swelling me on a impact hahahahah worked like a charm.....

read the how to....... i have timing plate and flywheel puller in hand.... problem is i have no air compressor for my air tools.... so that being said whats the sure fire way to remove the flywheel without stripping the puller's threads? my flywheel is rusty as well as the bolt and nut and i can see this happening..... im going to soak it in some good penetrant for a hour or so before i even attempt and take a wire brush to the threads and clean em best i can...... but ne other old school tricks to break the nut free???? thats what i need!! thanks

thanks for all the replies, there are some real knowledgable guys on here and i know u get bored anwsering the same questions when a new guy joins.....when i finally get high speed internet routed to my house ill be more search button friendly ...... i figured 18's would be too small, but most of the riding i do is on long hilly wooded areas and its not badly rutted out.... plus its just like gearing it down and should give me more bottom end right? i do like to climb hills alot, but if not ill probally run some 20x10x9's, i have 20x11's on there now and i really just want a lower profile tire instead of the balloon turf tamer look hahahh...... i ordered a cool head with 21cc domes today and the advance came in, just waiting on flywheel puller.... what a bitch the stock phillips head case covers are, i stripped like 3 trying to get em off, im replacing them with some stainless allenhead bolts that my job loaned me but i dont have the longer ones, i think they are somehwere around 55mm long? neone know where i could go to get em? home depot lowes etc etc? the g force adjustable axles on ebay? they any good? i was wanting to widen the rear a tad for some more stability but i dont wanna buy junk axles. the heel guards are they necessary? my stock ones are gone and i was wondering if many of u had issues with foot slippage and did i need to order some nerfs with heel guards or will some regular nerfs do it? thats all, lol i know u like damn but as stated im on a cell and posting is a chore so i have to make it worthwile.... thanks again

ur right! i do need to search around and browse but im on a cell phone, no internet where i live as of yet, just gotta house in the country and they said itll be april before i get net there so bare with me lol...... yea the guy is fast in a straight line....can actually hang with us in the trails to but he rides his ass off, has to i guess to keep the rpms up in his powerband. heres what i have, what im in the process of doing and where i wanna go..... i have fmf phattys power core 2s.....@ sea level with 260 mains with a uni filter and airbox....13-41 gearing. im going to 300 mains and removing lid, chariot advance on the way and ordering a noss head with 21cc domes tomorrow.. what else am i missing? i am going to port but ima wait on some cylinders and a 4mill...... just rebuilt and stockers are on last bore....

ok my apologies for not being so clear, local guy im referring too is just a rider, however has one of the fastest bikes in my area so i was talking to him about setups..... hes running t6s with a drag ported 4 mill...... i told him i want something with kick ass top end but still be trailable.....i do like trails, creeks the whole nine. now everyone around here basically uses the same guy for porting Jeff @ maximum cycle and ive yet to talk to him about what im exactly gonna do...... was just fishing for info from here so i wouldnt sound clueless.....everyone says hes real good and can basically do whatever i want.

im looking to build a badass trail bike with good low end grunt and midrange..... i was gonna go 4 mill with some T'6s or some cpi inframes and a port job for a 4 mill will stock carbs be enough?......local guy said just drag port it and itll still be good for trails as long as im agressive with it, which i am, i ride hard no doubt but i dont want the bottom end to b useless...... what are some of the setups u guys reccomend for trails, long sloping hills and some dragging.... because all of us know theres gonna b a race sooner or later, and with the crowd i ride with, probally sonner than later so i wanna be able to keep up. i was wanting to go with 18 inch tires because i love the look, but i didnt wanna spin toooooo much. one guy said 18's and 1 up in thr front sprocket will put me where i want, that itll ride like its on 20's..... what size tires u reccomend for my app...... thanks alot....

im at 330ft above sea level, so i could go lower than 21cc? yea i know i could save for a port job but ima wait and do the port when i do the 4 mill plus it was blown when i got it and builder said cylinders was on its last bore, id rather port some that will last me a few builds....now i just got the shee and it was stock except for the pipes..... i gotta piece it together so the wife wont notice a lump sum coming out.... i gotta take it easy as i just spent over 4k modding my zx14 streetbike, when i sell my stretched zx9, ima shoot for some carbs, new ported cylinders (cubs) 4 mill crank and some cpi inframes

as title says...... if u had a few extra bejamns laying around what would u do? noss head with 21cc domes? or v force 3's? which would net me the most gains now? ima do both eventually but as of now wifey only gave me a small budget...... mods are just fmf phattys with power core 2's and gearing.......timing advance +4

ok ill get a noss head......i dont wanna fool with pulling studs....... i got about 250 unexpected dollars today and was looking at a head with 21cc domes (93 octane) or some v force 3 reed cages n reeds...... which would be the best bang for the buck?? im do both soon.... also 21cc domes is the lowest i can go with 93 octane right?

how does everyone here rate Vito's products? Good? i was about to order his Hemi 2 head with domes for 249......is that price reasonable? before i install my chariot timing advance i was wanting to lighten the flywheel, is this something i can do myself if so what methods have u used? drilled holes etc..... do the holes need to be evenly spaced so it wont vibrate or what? or should i just have it done..... thanks

i mean its b-s really..... im new to the 4 wheeler modding scene, this is my first attemp at modding a quad ive owned several but just rode...... i have 2 motorcycles a stretched out and chromed zx9, and a 07 stretched modded zx14..... ive done all the work on both myself including cutting chains etc and this really piissed me off..... i agree the stock adjusters are crap. there was so much slack in the stock chain i could almost touch the chain together in the middle with it adjusted all the way out. so i figured one link, or next available link which euals about 2 links really would b perfect. ohh well..... ill just drive 30 miles tomm to nearest quad shop and get a half link, heck maybe a few just in case.

dunno about stock chain, but yea its stock gearing..... just went down in front..... i guess ill order a half link.....danmit just in time for the weekend. go figure.

went down a tooth on my front sprocket, 13t....... of course had too much slack in chain, adjusted all the way out still had too much, so i figured i take off a link and adjust all the way in and go from there. well its too tight! now i need another chain. its confusing almost like i need a half link or something! neone out there can offer me some insight?