Ieat4strokes

bumpidy bump bump....cmon fellas I need a +10 arm!!!!!!!

Yea but wouldnt having all that done cost about the same as a 1-5 dunable? I know nothing about the tranny, so I'd have to let someone else do it I just did my first complete teardown to put in the 4mill and now I have a knocking sound, so my confidence is kinda down at the moment..... squish piston to bore clearance and everything is a-ok.....still knocks, but the knock fades in and out, really notcible at idlegive it just a little gas and you cant hear it

I have a Jato 3.3 complete with THS pipe, radio, manual, extra parts (tie rods etc) wanting to trade for swinger +8 or +10 roundhouse style, dunable tranny........Also looking for some alky lectrons lemme know what you got. If you want pics lemme know

if you dont mind me asking, what he charge you for the work? PM me

So everyone that does a 4mill have to have a override? This is my 1st 4 mill, drag ported by FAST and i cant shift under load at ALL, almost have to completly unload the tranny before itll shift past 3rd.....but everything inside is still stock, star, shift shaft etc....I do have the fast clutches and a d-d lockup though. would moding the shift shaft and getting a modded star help? I really dont want to go the dunable route but if I have to I have to......i race mostly 300ft dirt but i do like to still be able to play when i want, alot of open fields here.....I know alot of yall will say just get a duneable but my funds are kinda tight now, im going to have to send motor off to get this knocking sound figured out.....4 tear downs and still cant find what it is...... *cries*

Yea I'm workin on the pipes now. Trying to trade em off for some cpi's in the swap section. As far as the knock I am clueless. I have let several people listen to it and say it's normal 2 stroke noise. But I know it didn't do it when it was stock. I have tore top end and clutch side down and went through it all. No marks on domes on rods or nothing. So nothing hitting that I can see. I think I'm going to send crank off and make sure it's true and if so I'm just gonna run it. It runs damn strong. I don't know.

basically what poke said, it goes in the shaft and yes theres only one, the pancake bearing keeps from welding your shaft to the ball...... sounds bad huh? The pancake spins freely making it to where this dont happen

Jeff @ FAST said I need to put this motor on alky, gotta chance to get some 34 pj's already set up......what else would i need besides alky domes? Im clueless about alky and how to set it up, what about lectrons, I heard they are way easier to dial in, a few guys i run with run em and swear by em.....

well im trying to get away from a wheelie bar, so ill guess ill go +10, but then again running 300ft on the back tires would be a nice show too with the +8 , win or lose hahahha thanks fellas....

Thanks, but I will not be in the sand. Last line of my post says dirt/clay. I've never rode in sand so I dint know if it hooks better than soft dirt or what. We run wedges here or 4 snows. Thanks again for ur time.

hmmm, i appreciate all the advice fellas, i just dont want to go to far out, and not have enough weight to make it plant and it blow the tires all the way down the track......id rather it come up a little and have to use my wheelie bar than to go out to far and have it up.... so everybody pretty much agrees 10 over for a 4mill FAST drag ported stockers on dirt/clay Thanks

for any of you running 300ft, how long do i want my swinger? about to have one made by a member on here, im running a 4mill FAST drag port......i was thinking 8 over......i weigh right at 195lbs and its a wheelie toting monster stock length Thanks Brad.

yea i would try exhaust gaskets, the round ones inside your pipe where it connects to the cylinder exhaust flange..... if your referring to the wet spot where head meets cylinder, could be a coolant leak, thats the only thing that will leak from that area, in that case get a head gasket....

hahahahahahhahahah i have never done buisnss with him but im about to have him build me a swinger! ill let u guys know

fuel delivery? check and clean your petcock screen, whens last time you cleaned carbs? also will it start with choke on?

You wont need the o-ring set unless you buy a aftermarket head, they use o-rings to seal the head instead of a gasket. When you say its leaking exhaust, from the base of cylinders or from the head? what makes u think its leaking?

Just make the bar to where its adjustable.....I ran 2 1x1 bars bolted to lower holes in carrier, one from each side and one bar wit a T and some angle iron that bolts to where the grab bar goes and it runs BETWEEN the 2 lower bars, drill several holes in the middle bar, coming from grab bar area and run threaded rod through it with nuts.....the several different holes allow me to raise and lower the wheel..... depending on the track......

Bought brand new a few months ago....no bluing, rust etc....Like new T5's in chrome complete with silencers, hangers etc for some cpi IF/OOF or Shearer's IN/OOF.,.,.,.,.,lemme know something.....

I got some dune/drag ported, candy blue powder coated cylinders about 8 passes on a 300ft track and 64.5 bore......pistons rings etc and some 10 paddle extremes on douglas blues..... I need a duneable override if anyone has one..... Thanks Brad

well sh!t, something else for the wifey to kill me over....because it looks like im going to need one....cannot shift out of third without completly letting off gas..... damnit to hell!

my boss has a 400ex that runs low 4's in 300ft, so it can be done......but with the same amt of money you can make a banshee go alot faster, just my .02........ also if any of you ever wonder what a donkey punch is...... well sorry to say it but stroking just got it, i would def do any and everything to make his reimburse you or at least give you a set of unported cylinders

Mine did that at first, just adjust the clutch to where it has more pull.....(take slack out of lever) mine quit But my original question to all was, have any of you had difficulties shifting on a 4 mill or any high hp banshee after installing the lockup? If I took the lockup off and put my heavy duty springs from jeff in would it shift better? or Doing the shift star mod and lever mod to where it throws farther will that help? I havent a clue what a dunable tranny is and dont understand them, you cant downshift while moving forward right? I still want to be able to ride the thing off the drag strip......

I swore i posted this already but cant find it, Wide open i cant shift out of 3rd unless i let completly off throttle, with it pinned and slap shifting the clutch its a biotch to shift.....Didnt have this prob before the lockup, should I take it off if im not going to do a tranny right now? I think I read somewhere your not supposed to do a lockup without a tranny, is this true? Thanks Brad Sorry if its a double post, couldnt find my original thread!

Ive used the Royal purple MAX CYCLE in mine since ive had it, will not make your clutches slip as it has clutch saving addditives etc etc...... however even on my streetbike using a GOOD synthetic like Royal purple will show slippage sooner due to it being so slick...so ive heard, but no i havent had ne probs with it...... but i just went to ATF type F tranny fluid and can say I agree if it can hold up to a automatic tranny with all them clutches and parts etc, it should be fine on your banshee, just change it regular.....its all preference.... ive also used the Maxima 80wt with no probs... Brad

Whats the deal? after my 4 mill build, i decided to go with a direct drive lockup and cover and wot pinned it will not shift past 3rd unless i let off gas, usually just racing i pin throttle and slap shift the clutch, but not with this, do i need to do shift star mod? shift shaft mod? will it help, or do i need to take lockup off.... i heard not too do a lockup unless I do a tranny, but i do still play on the thing every once in a while and dont want a full out cut tranny.......what yall think? Thanks Brad