Ieat4strokes

will do today. I'll double check everything

the crazy thing iz when I first kicked it over it purred like a kitten. No noise no knock no nothing. I let it heat cycle a few times and then took it down the road for a wide open run. That's when the knocking started.

Ohhi made sure they were tight, so tight when I got them I had to beat the pins out with a hammer. Hahahha it took me like a hour to get the pins out the pistons and then back in. Even after I oiled them down. I guess Ima tear back into it and see what's going on. Im lost!

what is it, piston slap? wrist pins and bearing werent in great shape, and a PITA to get out and back in, Jeff from FAST said that could be it cuz its not allowing the piston to float properly......either way im not running it again till i find out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpuGidPXgxA

I got my high at 220, danger at 230.......also use the bR8es plugs instead of b8es and the resetting of the power will stop.....mine usually runs around 180-190 when i used to trailride, 80-90 degree ambient temp.

ok well i put straight 115 race gas in, new plugs and its missing, not reving out clean and that knocking sound is still there, almost sounds like piston slap or the crank, what could I have done wrong......i talked to jeff for a hour earlier and he said the knocking noise concerns him, but he didnt know what it was, also i need to mention i caught h3ll trying to get the piston pin out of the pistons when i got them, had to beat them out and back in, should the pin be that tight? could that be the noise im hearing? Help please edit: there is quite a bit of vibration coming from the motor, more than before, are there c-clips on both sides of the crank? or just on output side? I only seen a c-clip on the output side and nothing on flywheel side.... sorry for the dumb questions but ive never been in case before

I did measure both sides of each cylinder, as close to the pin as I could get it, kinda hard to get it dead on at the pin bbut i se whre your going, plugs backed out last night on a wot run, havent ran it since, but i cant be 100% that i tightened em down, with putting the motor togther and installing the motor, cutting old brackets off frame, rerouting and cleaning up harness I had alot going on yesterday,, may have been a oversite, Im going to empty tank, put in some 115 i have here and try again, then look at plugs to see whats going on. thanks for all your help snop. You aint half bad of a guy, i dont care what they say hahahahahah j/k So now i know my tester is off, p.o.s. cost me 40 bucks too, looks like its made well but inaccurate all the same, I got some 19cc gas domes cut by mr. Noss, kubitza's ( Mark) were 20cc alky's your correct... and the c12 is awesome stuff, ran it in my streetbike for years, this quad stuff is still all new to me, as far as the gasket its just the blk ones that come in the wiseco top end kit...Im gonna try straight race fuel and see if that noise stops, i hate any kind of noise, it might have always done it just never paid so close attention until you build your very first motor from the crank up. David, yea the solder tapers off slightly from the actually squish imprint, so i should measure closest to the tip right? Once again thanks from the domes, quick shipping, i had em the next day!

160 mains on keihin's are waaaaaaaaaaay bigger than a 160 on stock carbs.....Im running 162's if i posted 160's that was a typo......

Does detonation make a noise? Thats audible, that you can hear? I hear some ticking...... Yea the motor was warm, i checked it after the trip down the street and back, approx, 1/4 mile after i noticed plugs were backing out, i wanted to check compression to see if i needed to drain tank and put in straight race gas.....I had one plug out, and throttle wide open.... But my question is, were the squish numbers good? was solder too thick to get accurate reading and bending them at a 90 degree angle and touching cylinder wall the proper way? Ive never done it before......and will detonation cause the noise im hearing? Its like a hollow tick coming through the pipe....hell i dont know

I got betwen .045 and .050 on both cylinders on both sides of the plug, not even sure if i did it right or if the solder was too thick to smash completly etc....calipers are accurate to .0001, and I used 3/32" solder and also got some wire solder thats measured out to b .036 and it wouldnt even crush it, so i suppose thats good...... What next fellas? .053 was my highest reading

I'm thinking the same. It's noticibly harder to kick over than my previous build. Both were showing 150psi. My old motor was a fresh build 18cc domes and showing 150. This one is harder to kick and shows 150 with 19cc domes. Don't make since. Am I doin the check right? One plug out, wde open throttle , kick till the needle stops? If so then my guage is inaccurate. Would running low octane cause the tick I'm hearing?? Ima grab me some c12 tomorrow and see if that's the culprit. Also Ima try this squish thing out. I've never worried about it before on a stock motor but now is different. With the 4 mill squish is a issue due to clearences etc and I'd I got the right domes. I got some 115 laying around not much but enough to see I'f that's it.

I need to get some thinner solder, all i have is this thick heavy duty shyt and it wouldnt even flatten it out....plugs werent new, they were from my other motor, I have new plugs in it now and wanna run it, do you think it would be ok?

Its got 93 in it now, Timing at +5, i mean i took my time with the build, oiled everything during assembly, pistons, bearings cylinder walls, new seals in it etc.... it feels like its got a ton of compression, spun motor over several times by hand fully assembled before I dropped it in and everything felt and sounded fine, not like the pistons were hitting or nothing, but it almost sounds like the tick is coming from inside the pipe on the left side and from the head.....im not sure, i guess ill need to check squish clearance? Also its pitch black out and reving it a few tims th white porcelin on the plugs was lighting up....never seen that before but it is pitch black out here......The compression guage has a adapter with o-rings and its the exact length as the plug threads, i checked it with one plug out and throttle wide open.....

i just wanna clear up that I put new plugs in with the intention of running it again, but im to worried about the ticking and if its detonation i dont wanna toast my motor. So im gonna wait on you guys!

Recently put together a 4 mill Fast drag ported motor. Crank was in exellent condition tho used. As well as cylinders and pistons all with less than 10 hrs on em. Pistons and everything looked great. Fired first couple kicks idled fine. Let it warm up. Ran it around the yard a few times and it felt really strong almost scary strong. Ran it wide open down the road and it did fine until on the way back and started missing. Pulled it under carport and both plugs were backed out. It couldve been cuz I didn't tighten them down enough I don't know. But there is a noticable tick coming from the motor. I put new plugs in compression was at 150psi with my o reillys auto parts guage. I'm running 19cc 4 mill Gas domes cut by Noss and I'm at sea level. It read the same 150psi with my 18cc domes in a fresh build. I'm scared I'm way higher and it's detonating. Could that be the noise I'm hearing? It gets faster with motor speed but not louder. I'm runnin 35 pwks 50 pilots and 160 mains needle on second clip from top. Like I said it ran strong toted the wheels through all gears but has a tick sound comin from head area almost like pistons are hittin domes.

Almost got my 4 mill together, how can i tighten the clutch basket nut to 66 ft lbs like manual says without the inner hub spinning? i tried a impact but im sure its still not enough because of the inner hub spinning....

Just to touch base, I went with some drag ported FAST 4 mills, gotta great deal!..... got me some domes cut by NOSS, waiting on gasket kit to come in tomm, and she will be alive tomorrow night. Also Im trading off the T5's for some OOF cpi's.....Now if i can just remember how the damn kicker gear assembly went back in? does it just go back in one way and hook the spring to top case? just doesnt look right to me.... Ohh and I did take yalls advice and get a DD lockup and cover....... Thanks Brad

Im doing some spring cleaning, cutting off old brackets, re-routing wires, deleted overflow, making engine cleaner and less crowded, took off parking brake cable, can I just unhook the plug going into clutch lever for the parking brake and it still run? I know ima get a new clutch pertch, but for now, can I just unhook it/ cut it from main harness?

well I hope I like mine.....Im about to swap my T5's for some OOF CPI's......but im jumping to a drag ported 4mill so im sure they will perform better than the 5's.... But your post confuses me, for a pipe that supposed to pull better/ flow better up top you shouldnt have to jet down.....especially on your mains....

Pipes are tied up pending a trade, if the trade doesnt go through I'll let yall know somthing asap... Thanks for your interest

Yes theY will come with everything. Hangers etc. Still waiting on these cylinders and see what this guy us gonna do.

nope still up for grabs!

Them are the numbers I like to hear, all my frinds are saying Im gonna be less reliable etc etc, cant do this and that, we will see when i get my 4 mill together thursday, *waiting on seals*

A piped and fuel managed 700r is by no means slow, if he's a good rider it will be neck and neck, I beat a 700r all the time when i had stock cylinders and fmf's and timing advance....lol but it was never a blow out.... they will be beside you. I havent had neproblems witha zilla either, only raced one, it had fmf's on it, dont know about the portwork, it was quick but if I got him off the line I stayed in front, Im ready to try em with this 4mill lol

first time motor has ever been apart, it had pieces of rings everywhere under the stock crank.....had to have been before me.....lol