Ieat4strokes

actually i did, replaced with new pins and bearings...... it runs awesome.... i mean plugs look great, just that d@mn noise.....it totes the wheels through everygear just off throttle 6th takes some pulling and some effort but all in all im very plase with the FAST drag port, it hits like a slap in the face up top, real hard..........just shifting the damn thing is a pain unless i let completly out of the throttle.....i might take lockup off and see if shifting gets better, i believe i read somwhere on here a lockup with no tranny is a no no..... i cant get it out of 3rd if i have it pinned just slap shifting, i have to let out completly

im about to throw the damn thing in a lake......i dont know what it is and im tired of fooling with it to be honest, i bet ive tore this motor down 8 times......im sending it off.

I mean yea. I put on thrust washer then the spacer clutch basket 2nd thrust washer innerhub lockwasher then tightened it down. Put in fibers and steels then pressure plate and lockup fire it up no knocking. Put on cover filled it with tranny fluid and fired it up and the knocking gradually came back but it fades it and out. Knocks for the most part but sometimes stops. It's coming through pipes like a hollow knock sound. It seems to be coming from top end. If I get underneath it with a screwdriver to case by crank I can't hear it. It's up by cylders head exhaust area.

FIRED it up without cover on and no knocking at all.....put cover back on filled it with tranny fluid because i thought it was fixed and when i first started it NO knocking and then the knocking gradually came back..... then if you put it in gear let out on clutch it quits again, like the noise comes and goes or fades in and out........do all direct drive covers not have a vent hose? mine doesnt......and the sound sounds like its coming through the T5's like a hollow ping through the pipes, it dont sound like its coming from motor.....

will do......thanks

I got the cover from "arfountains" off here, not sure how new it is but im tempted to take lockout off, throw stock cover back on and see if it goes away.....it seems everything is on right according to manual Dave - as far as the book goes, im not missing no pieces.....im going to try your advice and see if i can hear anything, also on my fibers, somethings rubbing the outside fiber by the pressure plate..... i dont even see what it could be..... its on the tabs facing outward....the shiny grey on the tab is the scuff marks im talking about

i mean i can wiggle it back and forth but it dont look excessive.....but that idler gear does look real close to the back of the basket..

Dave mentioned I should pull clutch cover and check for broken plates etc, well this is what i found, seems something is rubbing the direct drive cover, basket maybe? and something else is rubbing the rivets on the basket itself....I didnt remove idler gear and i think thats the only thing that could do this.....BUT i did put kickstarter assembly in wrong, the spring tab on the back of the gear, i didnt put it in the recessed area in the case, maybe it was coming in contact with the idler gear while running? Heres the pics? what you guys thinkk???? The nick in the cover itself is actually a nice gouge....damn camera phone wouldnt pic it up well.... but its close to side that mounts to case maybe the gear on back of basket?

WHAT THA F@CK! man, dude, homie, cuz, id take em back and slap him with them......what did he use a 4 inch grinder?

i think i posted it fouledout hahaha, but to my bro's rescue because ive had the same probs as you with some of the "try the search responces"........people not posting what worked and no follow-ups with fixes etc makes the search USELESS unless 1) Someone ACTUALLY posts what fixes thier problem 2) Stop posting irrelevant off topic info in other ppl's threads 3) Just stop bein dick's period.....you were new at a time. you have to learn some how....and the search is a great tool if people do numbers 1 AND 2 I like the FAST clutch kit, havent tried anything else so I havent nothing to compare it to, but since the install it works great and bites hard. It should last a long time on your quad as well....

You can get the hotrod crank in standard or longrod, longrod requires the 795 series pistons and is more reliable due to less side load on the skirts. The shortrod does rev quicker but Ive heard alot of stories of motors going BOOM over time. Im sure youll get mixed replies, some guys may have never had a issue with a shortrod 4mill, as for the most power, i cant comment on that, just my .02

HotRodz

since its been welded rebuilding it i guess is out of the question, I dont have a degree wheel, Is there anyone who can check it for me?? This is, well im be quiet for now but if dude sold me a bum crank, someone gonna have to foot the bill to get it fixed or something. Can any of the major builders check em? Or can i just get it trued?

well I guess ima tear the motor back down and see what I can see, im about ready to ship it off....

yea it's the same bike. That's why I was asking was it normal

What exactly is a lap job and how do you do it? I have a mental picture of what yall are saying but i want to be sure.... Thanks fellas

I just made the jump to a 4 mill FAST motor, Is it normal for a 4 mill to have more vibration? At just off idle in neutral mine vibrates through the footpegs waaaay more than before..... yes all motor mounts are tight. Just wondering if any of you noticed.....or is somethin inside jacked up? Thanks Brad

got .006 in without much effort after getting past rings, .008 was snug on both cylinders and .009 i could only get in on left cylinder and it was tight........what to check now?

Yea I know, I checked squish and got .045-.050 tore down top end and check for any signs of detonation and everything looked fine, no marks or scars on domes or pistons, thats why im confused, like i said there isnt much to mess up on a crank swap, but evidently something aint right....Ima check piston to bore clearance like suggested above, i can grab pistons and wiggle them in the cylinders enough to make a cluncking sound, just seem a lil loose to me....but Jeff @ Fast said Mark (the guy I got crank and cyl's from) had no issues at all and it ran super strong... all i did was split cases, drop in crank and new seals (moose i believe) and put on top end....im just hopeing and praying its somethin loose on clutch side or flywheel etc.....but all in all i havent ran it since that first day and just letting it idle for the video purpose....

man I hope so, He just sent pistons in a seperate box and didnt label them so I had no way of telling, But I am gonna try to swap em around before I send Jeff my motor, he doesnt seem to think its piston slap or anything cylinder related from listening to the video im sure its probally 100 or more to ship one huh? the heat cycle I only did to seat gaskets and retourque, sorry for the confusion..... Thanks Brad

I let it heat up and down a few times, then rode around the yard barely off idle for a few minutes probally 5-10 mins, then took it down the road.... if you followed my other thread, parts werent brand new, I bought crank, cylinders and pistons, rings etc from "Kubitza" on here with about 10 hrs on the motor, shoudlve already been broke in....Jeff said motor ran super strong...... unless I put wrong pistons in wrong cylinders.... or would that matter? Ive always been told not to mix them up after its ben ran for a while, that the pistons/rings kinda wear to THAT particular cylinder.

Yea well im too anal about stuff like that, I cant stand it, and even though nothing has went boom on your buddies motor yet, it will.....if its knocking something aint right...... Im afraid ill have to do that, im going to tear it back down one more time... and double check, thn if it still does it, off to Jeff it goes, who ships motors and about how much....

yea jeff just msgd me and told me to mic the skirt hahaha, doing that I got 64.92 piston and 64.98-99 on cylinders, ring gap is 4.35mm or.171in from tip to tip of ring, from recessed area on ring its 5.46mm or .215, I dont have a bore guage but Jeff listned to video and doesnt think its piston slap .... i mean what could i have screwed up just by pulling old crank and dropping in new one, aint like there was alot involved....is there c-clips on both sides of crank? i only had one on output side?

I know some of you been following my thread on the 4mill knocking sounds etc, well i took off head this morning, no marks on pistons or domes everything seemed fine until i rotated crank to push piston out of cylinder top, remember its a 4 mill, I grabbed the little 2mm of the piston and it moves in the cylinder a pretty good bit, more than my other cylinders on a fresh bore, I mic'd everything and got 64.96-64.98mm on both cylinders and 64.36-64.39mm on my pistons, is that to much free play? Pistons are 65.00mm per the stamp on top...... The sound I hear when I jiggle them is about the same noise i hear when its running.....Even though my 4th is ruined I hope this is all thats wrong....What you guys think? The side where I think the rattle is coming from has the most play 64.36 piston and 64.98 cylinder. Thanks, Brad

I notched the stock yamaha cover and mounted it with the supplied handlebar mount right in the center