AKheathen

cool, i've seen some of it, but not the final product complete.......is that adjustible sai, down there? hard to tell by the pic. got me thinking on springing for a raw bolt-on spindles for my x-arms.....

well, it would help to be a little more discriptive.......what do you wanna know? you can google them???

well, it depends on the ridding conditions. you have many options. you can cut the lid in half at the front clamps just to hold the filter in, you can get the billet filter plate that bolts in the box and uses a k&n clamp-on filter, like i have, or you can run pods and get rid of the box. not sure how much gains, but they are there. definately an improvement over the snorkel inlet.

definate score......without knowing temps and elevation, i would say to start there. remember to fasten the filter down and do your plug chops as described in the pinned topic..

ok, without knowing the temps, then i would start with a 310, but you will be in the 280-310 range depending on temp and humidity......

half tempted to buy them myself. they look nicer than mine.....alot nicer

well, if you properly modify the lid, it will make a difference of little more than one size on the mains. this involves working the runners inside rhe lid so that they don't restrict the flow. best to jet perfectly for the lid being off if you plan on doing the lid on-off thing. i would say to start with the 280, but i need to know the ridding temps to be sure....you may need more. if you are going to stay with the stock filter, then you are going to have to clamp it down somehow, since the lid holds it in place.

it's a head installation procedure, done at any time you remove the head. rebuild happens to be ONE of these times.

hahaha, yah, no clothing in the engine....it's ok to run naked.....like i said in my previous post. and the ebay kits are great for every main you need pretty much, but has every size you will never need for pilots, so you will have to buy the 27.5 separately

what is your float setting on that carb? it may be just a mm too short. also, try tapping the bowl and see if it stops

well the subject here is heat cycles, not break-in...

haha, that is one way to do it...not sure how rich you can go before it gives you more than a little sputtering, and if you're not hooking up real good, you're probably not loading it up verry much or spending much time wot anyways. not sure if i messed with the needles much, but i think it's usually fine to leave them be. i run my needles a little rich on the bottom anyway. baught the carbs i really wanted for cheaper than the needles i needed...

what does the plug look like compare to the other side? what does the choke tube look like are you synced and clean in the carbs. try swaping plug wires. it's normal for it to not run good cold, but it really shouldn't misfire out of one side

well, it doesn't have a cam, and you want as little idle time as possible on the rings becore you actively seat them. that's the point of the plug chops. to seat the rings properly, while making sure it won't blow up. all idling does is dull the new rings out and allow deposits to build and they will likely never get to fully seat for the life of them. the gentle break-ins are for older coarse hones where alot of material is produced durring ring seat and needs to be allowed to clean out, rather than grinding it into the piston/cylinder

well, if you tune it right before and after the bottle, i gaurantee no improvement with the bottle

well, i am not saying definately that they are not 28's....like i said, you have to measure what it's at @ the bore near the slide. if it reduces there like the stockers do, then it's not 28's, but if it stays that diameter strait through, then it's 28mm....i'll get you the pic if what i'm talking about. those carbs behind the caliper are my 28's that have been bored out to a little more than 29, but you can see how it stays constant bore all the way through..........what jets are in there now. also, what were the temps and elevations where it was before and where you ride now? it is much easier to adjust to the new conditions with a good base, rather than guestimating on the setup as usuall.

no offense, but what is the point of the cooling fan pointed at the radiator, if the point its to get it hot, then let it cool normally?

jump up to 310 or 320 mains on both sides and sync the carbs. do a plug chop if it's running ok

true, you will boil over before you get it all the way up, however, it is most likely to start a leakpoint while the engine begains to cool, and still pressurized, since everything gets crushed during warm-up, then loosens.......and it loosens significantly. i use a torque wrench alot on mostly cat engines still under warrenty.. i don't personally believe in using extra oil either, i just hear it alot that they were told to, so i leave it alone. good detergency is all you need for break-in. i would actually go strait to plug chop after first retorque for decent ring seat.......oh,and i'm not the only one that over-torques the head, either. it can handle more than that, but wil starte to warp

hha, you said chump you soo funny...good guy and nice products... here's my bhq grill installed on my YELLOW bike neener neener neener

all fresh fuel mix? what does it smell/look like?

that's why you go talk to them.......i don't know what they need, but they will likely need to see it in order to attatch the vin tag.........

well, you should upp the mains IF you runn more oil than usuall durring break-in to comphensate for the extra oil.....you do your heat cycles with the radiator cap off, then retorque. they will be lose after a couple cycles......i do mine in stages- 10-15# in sequence, then 25-30#...then retorque after the second and fourth heat cycle...i put the cap on after the first retorque......but, i don't use a torque wrench, just by feel, since i'm used to torquing shit all day long at work....

you lying fucktard.....your jetting post...try to tell me off like i wouldn't show up in the jetting section....you are only fucking yourself. i'm not your daddy who is goin to bend you over , but i do get pretty pissed when people try to lie and waste my time. bottom line is that you hae likely burned up your pistons by now. 125-110 psi fdifference doesn't happen durring break-in. 280 mains with mx port pro-circuits, and pods?? come on. i doubt you would need to be that lean even if you ran down to the ocean to buy gas congratulations.......aside from that...check your float height, and lean your airscrews out some or check the needles. mabey the reeds aren;t closing and over-richening..idk right now, but you need to pop your head off and check things.....good luck

you rich runnin shit, trying to tell me you are not rich and it's tuned perfectly and then hold up soaking wet plugs.........you have to try to jet them in order to get them tuned right.