AKheathen

i believe the cooling path operates on a "heat rises" principal and will not only cool on this principal, but more stabilize the heating and cooling fluxuations, so cold water doesn't "shock" the cylinders...with the process that hot and cold water doesn't mix verry easily or quickly

blah, blah, blah......why don't we lock this topic already?.............btw, yellow is the fastest color, so you better have a yellow banshee, like me, or tylers yfz will win......

well, i have the same size head as tyler, and the large does like 7-1/8+, so whatever fits.........i wear a large? i think on the helmet, but i want the yellow with the black hat...........having the screen name would be awesome.......mabey in strait yellow writing, hahaha....should have money by wed......

actually, if those dg g mufflers are made for stock pipes and are kinda small, then they might work perfectly....get some pics and inner diameter measurements....

what do the plugs look like? you know that you moved the needle and changed the jet at the same time, so you don't know which it was.....but, you don't really want to lean the needle much....the pro-circuits like a little fuel enrichment to keep the bog down, so move the needle the other way. also, the mains only set the wot getting, not the mid or low. did it sputter @ wot? if not, i would put it back, and even think about going larger...now, the smoking and the jetting are 2 different things.....

eek......i would start with 310, but you may need a little smaller...

well, if you are going to keep the similar setups, then i would definately suggest the chariot cages which come with boysen reeds, or if you really don't wanna shell out the money for them, you can buy the boysen pro or power reeds by themselfs. i would suggest the pro reeds with the carbon fibre pedals and stiffer main pedals, since you do a bit of play drag. they have a little crisper response, but the other ones have a little better and smoother off-idle....

i think s/m black with yellow............i have a s/m that fits ok, just seems not quite deep enough....i usually just match all the buttons up on regular hats, and fit perfect..

haha, cool beans......i won't have to feel so guilty now.....

yes.....what is in there now? i would start with 310, needle clip in the middle.....but, did you get everything back together right? choke tube in place? slides in there right? and you pre-oiled the filter, but not over-oiled?

fatboy2 silencers would probably work good, too.......you can probably get silencers alone for under 100.......ebay

i doubt you willl need to get smaller than 290's......that's why you put them all in the kit....

well, what setup do you have.....it's not about making big jumps in hp, but where it works the best in the rpm range.......the vforce works great with a mid to high rpm setup, but the boysens and chariot setups work best in the low-mid setups. there is also a selection of pedals that are the same way. both the vforce and chariot put out pretty good, and better than stock on all rpms, it's just where you are setup that defines what will work better...

well, depending on what "older" fmf was on there, it would be pretty much the same as the t-5's...but that is pretty irrelevant....throw the 33-s in there for now, and order 320, 310, and 300, 27.5 and a little box, with a few tools, so you have a little jetting kit to go ridding and jet when you get there...

well, the best thing for measurin your ports is in degrees of durration. but if you can't do that, then you first measure the deckheight assembled, then measure from the deck to the top of each port in mm.... are you gonna straiten the top of the frame? also, check the steering loop above the gas tank, those are usually bent back, but can be straitened easily. you can tell by how the rad.and tank plastics line up......

do your pipes just say fmf gold series with a signiatyre, and no oval? the older fmf stingers have a 1 piece body and rear cap. those are definately fmf, but it looks like you are just missing the end caps.....

you are going to want to run the same toomey silencers....there are aftermarket ones, but i doubt they will work as good...

don't forget to pre-jet for the ride, to account for the cold..

already gone from what i hear..... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124320

is there a writeup on this yet?

as stated, you will get different opinnions on break-in procedure. i'll give you a little insight as to how ring seating works......everyone knows that the rings will basically just cut into the crosshatch and form to each-other. now, what happens and how it does or doesn't cut is a different storry.......first, the rings cut by pressure pushing down around the inside of the ring. this is what the little chamfer on the inside of the ring is for. it applies a great amount of pressure while under a load only. unloaded, the rings apply less than 12psi against the cylinder, which is basically nothing. when you free-rev, or idle, it begains dulling the rings. now, the "take it easy" approach comes from a few different things...first, the older coarse crosshatch hones give off alot of material durring break-in and will be too much material at once to remove. also, there is cam/gears, etc to break in in 4strokes, and it's just a general engine habbit. and, there is the heat cycles to consider in order to retorque the head. now, i have my way of breaking it in....and i'm not the only one, but here it goes if your interested..........do your 2 quick heat cycles, retorque the head, and then go out and do a couple plug chops. your rings should be near fully seated when you are done with a couple passes. the heat cycles should take care of the excess material on a coarse hone, and should still be relatively sharp on a finer hone. it is my opinion that babying it for a tankfull is about the worst thing for ring seating, with all the free-running and almost no load.

yah, i was really torn between the 2, because i wated the odometer features, but i want the tach more...

x2, i did the exact same thing this spring. they work awesome over stock and can see distance. remember, we are talking about the little 2" chrome bullet lights, not the other 5 types of light walmart carries. they are the only one that takes the mr-16 bulb. true, they do get a bit hot, but it is far from an issue. i have run mine for hours on end and sprayed them with snow and water when they were hot as they can get, and still no issues or cracking. also, an underpowered light will just create heat and verry little light, so you want to keep the power at 70 watts, or you will loose alot of brightness in the lower rpm's. stock stator is about 100 watts at verry high rpms.

nice...i can attest to these subs.....i've dealt with every size, and thae all blow your mind.......just one question.......what's up with the port?