AKheathen

yes, the pro-circuits are an awesome low-mid pipe that will give you much longer gears, and come on sooner. first, what domes do you have in the head? is there porting done? what fuel are you running? for 93 octane, and stock porting, i would run 20cc domes and +5, or +5.5, as ong as you keep it jetted right, and not run old fuel. ti makess awesome useable power in your type of ridding.

sounds kinda like a quick pin for a nerf bar, snow blower drive, or hood pin......

well, if the bowls are on the correct carbs, then take the choke jet out of the left carb bowl(choke knob carb) and clean it out. see if that helps. if there is not a jet in there, then it's the wrong bowl. it looks like a pilot jet.

whoops, i missed unn

well, the thing about premix ratios, and what the manual says, is that it is based on low end oils, and stock jetting. the factos are 1: a higher grade oil is made to run in smaller amounts and has higher viscosity and protection, with more burn-off resistance, and 2: the larger the jets, the more premix, ergo more oil, than the 200 mains almost 2x as much, which also means viscosity of changing it now could make the difference of as much as 2 jet sizes. i would do the 32:1, find a good oil, and pick some more mains up

jeezum crowe...... First, you know how hard it is to type and use proper punctuation and spelling pissed off, much less proof read, edit, and spell check? That just doesn't really happen. Plus, not doing the same as you lecture is like getting drunk and beating your kid for drinking. If you think your punctuation was close, then allow me to spell it out: This is how it should look: Also, it could have been worded allot better, but I'm not the one bothered by all the bad grammar. P.S. "i take back the good things i said" sounds like something a 3rd grader would say. No one here knows or cares who you are, or what you think, since you are obviously a non-contributing member, and nobodys' freind.

well, i wouldn't worry about it. 1, it's not that much, and 2, you don't have a base to go off of before and after break-in.

x2. have you tried bolting the 9's on and throwing the stock front sprocket. lean back as far as you can, and see how much difference it makes. just what i would start with..

yah, i know 5psi difference is normally fine, but with a low hour motor, i'd be a little suspect

umm, how dofferent from each-other are they?

well, i highly doubt that it is a 460, unless someone went through all the trouble to re-sleeve, and rechamber and make it a sleeper if you pull off that stock head, you can measure the bore and stroke. stock is 64mm bore, and 54mm stroke. you can also take some porting measurements while you are in there, too

try putting the stock needles back in on the middle setting. the needles in the kit are usually pretty lean, and may cause that bog there. how does it run wot warmmed up? the 340 may work fine, but it's best to buy jets not in a "kit" or buy a collection of jets that they sell on ebay, which have every size main up to 390, which would be the only kit. if it seems to run good wot, then do a proper plug chop to see where it's at. as the temps and/or elevations change, you will ned to change to a different size. there is a ton of info on jetting pinned in this section that you should read.

well, good to see something good. what was the story on no-contact? just missed him in the shout

the webbing itself should be cast as well. 204, or hr204, i believe

TORS.........nuff said.. haha, but really, unplug the little black box under the gas tank, to the left of the coil. then, you can get it to idle. now, for the chain jumping. grab the rear grab bar and shove it side-side. you should be able to see the swingarm move with slack in the pivot bearings. next, grab the sprocket and see how much play is on the splines. they will wear out enough for it to skip across the splines under load, and you will end up having to replace the hub and likely axle. if you don't find alot of play, then, ratchet strap the swing arm to the frame by hooking to the upper carrier bolt tube and suck it untill the sprockets and pivot bolt line up strait, and tighten up the slack in the chain, and try it out. i'm assuming you already inspected the sprockets. if you run out of adjustment, and have stock sprockets/swinger, then it's time for a new chain.

you try different paddle and/or gearing combos? too much paddle and too low gearing can make you jump up, but fall short in the long run. if you want to run 4 and keep the handling, that's where i would go first.

dg alloys, they are nice and affodable

ummm......wtf?

whao watch out for the FISTS OF FURY!!!!! i bet he is so cool that he can get the games out of my daughters' vtech

well, depending on how cold it is there, you may want to step up to a 310 or 320 main untill summer, and the numbers in the bowls only signify something like the materials and something else like date and plant, but the only thing that tells which is the choke side bowl is the jet in the bowl. you should probably clean that jet, too....

if it is in that usuall heat range, try out 290 first, but go higher if it's colder. the fatties often call for 27.5 pilot, but not always.

is your output seal leaking at all? sounds like it may be a bad bearing on the output shaft

well, does it have the same intake and exhaust restrictions as the bike it came out of, and did it run with the current jetting and setup before? also, if it is alot colder, it will be leaner. something as simple as removing the muffler baffle can significantly change the jetting, just like a 2 stroke.

do you have trouble keeping the front end down? you don't really want any longer that what will keep you from flipping, or you will sacrifice handling.that being said, if you plan on porting in the future, +4 or less can still handle jumps pretty nicely