AKheathen

there we go......yah, i depends on what tires and what you need to do.... i have the same fronts, just a little worn, and running kenda bear claws 22/12/9's in the rear. the fronts are built to run square, but i don't see them as digging in too much in any terrain, unless you are running really low psi. i would check the toe adjustment first thing. now the rears-it's pretty easy. just fill them up to 6psi, or 5, whatever they are rated,, and head out. bring one of those cheap tire gauges, and a hand or foot pump and ratchet strap with you and start letting air out, a little at a time, untill you get it better performance. of you do actually spin the tire off the bead, then just wrap the strap around the center to push the bead out and pump it up. i've run 4-0 psi in many terrains, and do between 2-3 in woods ridding, but i have thick mud tires..

well, ok.......as we begin to discuss reeds, it always comes to peak hp production and "throttle response" now, lets stand back and re-define throttle response. it seems to most (from what i read into how it's described) as a crisp-"how fast will it respond to stabbing the throttle" rating, rather than a precise "will it give me the same amount of power i am demanding?" By definition, the throttle response is just that- the response to a set amount of throttle demand. let me give an example..... say, you are in the woods, or loading up on a trailer, (or any similar circumstance) and you want about 10% power to get over a rut or start up the ramp, and you have 2 reeds to choose (boysen power reeds and boysen pro reeds) now, the pro, with the stiffer pedals can give you a crisper response to upper throttle ranges at any rpm, but at lower demands, it's not as smooth and tends to "jump" ahead to higher output with rpms. on the other hand the power reeds has softer pedals and provide a smoother and more controllable response to all throttle ranges. so, both of the 2 reeds are similar, and put out about the same peak power, loke you are running on a dyno or racing, but actually differ allot in real-world performance. (not trying to bash racing) so which one do you want to be running at that time? this example is a penciled down differential, but it's the same deal through the whole throttle range and in many different situations. to me, reed choice is about performance profile to fit the application first, and peak power delivery at said rpm second. lets move on to some of the original topics....... no, vf3's are not the best hands down, it all depends on application different reeds on stock cages DO make a huge difference and usually a great option for builds up to 4mill, and the stock cages can be ported for a little difference in performance. 38mm is not really what is working the reeds so hard, it's the high rpm and application that calls for 38mm carbs, and this depends on what reeds/pedals you are running checking reeds depends on what reeds and operating conditions, but generally, yearly inspection..... your drag bike will run good with vforce, but the need depends on how big of a build it is (7mill+, IMO) the rad valve- yes it is a great option for performance on stock intakes as they are designed for 90% of the market, which is mild builds, much like t-6's. playing with the flow and porting on stock cages and the rad valve is a nice little project that you can't really screw up unless you take too much out where the pedal seals. you will gain a little incite and experience in analysis as well as a little perspective, and possible performance gains. if there is longer pedals for it, I'm sure they have an improved stiffener to maintain reliability, or the product probably wouldn't go far. now, the chariot reed cages are a redesigned stock cage that focuses on working better with the 2 stage boysen reeds and there is much debate between that and the vforce as which performs better in stock to 4mill builds, including drag, so i will leave it at that and just let you know where they stand, and they are not sub-vforce and not just for trail/mx type builds. well, that's it for now, and this is just how i view the subject and my 2-cents worth.....

it's m8 and i think 1.5, but could be 1.25 pitch, and a socket screw.....25mm should work

x3....to give you an idea about the 2 pipes- the fatties will come on with a powerband in the midrange, and pull all the way up. the pro-circuits will roll-on down low and pull through to the higher end and taper off. they are most notorious for their strong mid-low power. you will have longer gears, and likely more freindly to a recent 4poke rider. on the other hand, you may just fall in love with the topend pull, as many do, of the fatties. just try them out over the next few months (don't forget to rejet for each pipe) and see which one you like best.

yes, ohm out the stator and check the grounds. the stator should read 13.7-20.5 on the red to green wires. the pickup should be around 110. did you set the pickup gap? las thing to do would be to remove the flywheel with the right puller and check the stator for damage and the flywheel

well, you can get right and left mixed up if you don't pay attention and then they will go in backwards........looks like you pay attention to the details, though........one reason i normally suggest re-syncing the carbs any time you have the caps off...

well, it would be really hard to fuck up 50/50, and being off just a tad will not make a difference in jet size......

well, basically, you get out your feeler gauges and a mic. measure rod side clearance with the feeler gauge, then you have to measure the up-down play in all the bearings. basically, if you grab it squarely without rocking and can feel any, then it's probably out of spec..... the taper looks like it was already resurfaced to seat the flywheel squarely by the pics, but take a little strait edge and run it around the taper to see if it's square.......other than that it should seat just fine

stock stroke is 54, so 58 is 4mill stroke... lemmie go take a measurement that you can do just looking at the crank alone... ok, if you look at the center of the rod pin by the outter bearing, the stock stroke center of the pin is behind the bearing. on a 4mill, the center of the rod pin is just about even with the top of the bearing. do you already know everything that is needed to make the 4mill work? domes/porting, or spacer plate?

wow, that is alot to sift through.....so, first, it sounds like your float is still leaking. first, tap the bowl with the but of a screwdriver and see if the float is sticking. next, set it at 21mm with it resting upside-down and no gasket. so, you say it's stock jetting(200)? if you have removed the snorkel, lid, or airbox, you need to rejet the carbs. next, unplug the tors controll box and wire going to the clutch lever. the box is small, and located under the gas tank, to the left of the coil. the 1.75 quarts is normal, just run it, and check it,, or are you sayin it leaks into the cylinders?

x2. depending on what reeds you had before, you may end up a tad rich. since you are going to put spacers on, i would suggest using plug chops to check the mains. there may be a topend breakup that can sound rich, or spark problem. if that happens, then move the spacers to the carb side of the reeds...

just how cold is it? what oil are you running?

has anyone tried grounding out the radiator? if you rule out power, and tach, that seems to be the only place i can think it would spike power.......

your idle is set way too high. the pilots are rich enough to lugh the ehgin back down. i bet it smokes a bit at idle, too. get it warmmed up an mak it do it again. as soon as the idle sticks, then turn it down real quick. that will be closer, and try the airscrews adjustment.....probably step down to a 48? that would be the next pwk pilot, right? other than that, i would have to say to rough up the carbs where they seal on the intakes and make sure they are getting a good seal there...

well, i have a pair of stockers, but one glass is cracked with a small peice missing. the housings are not the best-one side hast the front ring taped on and the other housing is cracked at the mount....the wires only come out the back a n inch, which i can extend. pm me if interested, not sure what they would be worth...

pics to [email protected] so, which gold series are they? the ones that are really rounded, or have angled headder tubes?

ohm out that rs coil first thing. ricky stator is infamous for prompt failure, and doa products..

hey alf, can you come up with a detailed list of what you need? i may have a bit of good parts for you, or know who does. i know i have a spare clutch basket, but i have to check the one i have installed first to match gear #'s. as for the arms guy. stfu already. if you wanted new arms, you would have sent them back already and ponnied up for a new set. the fact you still have them says that you still think it's a good deal, and cant find the same elswhere. i know that alf is a good standup guy that tries hard to go above and beyond to help anyone. i'm sure if alf could get his full refund back, that he would shipp everything back, and packaged properly. but it sounds like the money is already gone. uegine, just be a man, take the hit, and pony up to make it right. it's a part of life. i know i have made mistakes in my life, that i had to fuck myself to make it right, even if i couldn't afford it. i've also had losses due to shipping, and i just moved on.....in fact, that's one of the reasons i'm still not 4mill yet, but shit happens- you wipe your ass to clean it up and move on...

well, if you noticed, i said "at sea level" and yes, that setup needs more than 93 octane, even at 500'........now, the thing is, that the spacer plate and stock porting is going to lower the eficiencies, and i'm not sure how much that will effect the jetting, so , start with the 380's, needle in the middle, and airscrews at 1.25 turns from seated. get her warmmed up to operating temp and open it up. if you get some sputter or breakup wot, then go down on the mains untill it runs clean wot, and then do a plug chop. once the mains are good, adjust the needles, if needed, for the 1/4-3/4 throttle range, and then the pilots for idle to 1/4. then, re-adjust the airscrews. i would have to guess you'd be around 350-360 at 40 degrees. as for the carbs- it depends on aplication. of you are focusing on topend, then 33-34 wold be good, however, by your pipe choice, you will be much happier with 28-30 for nice bottom end and mid performance without killing the topend either. but, the porting and aplication will be the deciding factor. ...right now, the stockers will be just fine.

what about paypal? that's the only thing i use......

just the compression adjustment on the rezzies

just the compression adjustment on the rezzies

what is your elevation and ridding temps? you do realize that setup still needs at least 50/50 race/pump fuel at sea level, right?

well, first things i would check is that it's getting good, blue spark with fresh plugs. next, make sure the carbs aren't overflowing into the engine, and that your air filter is not plugged. i have also hear of somthing like a rag or paper towel being sucked into a carb. and finally, do a compression test...........other than that- NOMMM, NOMMM, NOMMM....

well, in the automotive industry and schooling, piston slap is where the piston slaps the dome either from rocking bearings, or carbon. such as the isuzu built vortechs would do in really cold temps because of the piston design. i suppose the skirt slap could fall in the same category, although it's always just been piston rock to me. my tahoe does it almost daily in the winter. sounds like someone repplaced just the one piston because of a failure, and not the other. i also have a stock head that has been beat up. i'm gonna get it cut for 4mill sometime, but you couldn't sell it as-is, as you probably already figured.