AKheathen

ah, i see. i would change that fuel to what you should be running first. i have done that, too, and mine didn't like the extra 5 oct. levels. ran fine, just with noticeably less power. then make sure your jetting is good. just 1 setting off usually just decreases power, but runs ok, and oct levels can change the jetting a bit, too. what kind of "big" stator is in there?

haha, i bought a seat cover to match those graphics perfectly......then it turned out to be blue version when i got it, lol.....anyways, i just had one made for me, since i didn't want the foam to rot when i cold-cracked it @ -30. i like it allot better than one you could buy.

take a look at your flywheel/stator......it might be a bit rusty in there or something......it kinda sounds like spark related, if you're sure on the jetting, plus the accompanying light issue also points there, or to grounds/wiring. the pro circuits should be pulling hard from down low, but they are not light switch, so it's hard to guestimate the feel and ovverrev, especially if you have been ridding another bike.....and i doubt a 4mill is maxing them out.

well, i don't know what you are doing with the plug readings after needle/pilot/airscrew adjustments, but stop. you are just confusing yourself. once you have confirmed that your mains are dialed in with a proper plug chop on virgin plugs, then the rest is by feel/sound. ok, now i can almost gaurantee that that aftermarket needle is generally leaner that stock all over. i have compared side-by side, and would suggest starting with the needles @ 4th clip from the top (blunt side) and stick that washer above the e-clip to begin. that washer is actually an aftermarket thing as well. it's for 1/2 clip adjustments. adjust the needle up or down if you get some spuutering or hesitation from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle, and adjust your airscrew for good idling and coming off idle, just rich enough that it doesn't hesitate as soon as you give it some throttle. also, you are not going to get rid of that bog from stabbing it at low rpm's, you just use less initial throttle to cure that, but you should have no problems with roll-on throttle at low rpm's.

yah, well, i ended up 340-360 mains with stock carbs.......pro-circuit platinums, boysen power reeds, k&n pro-flow, no lid, 20cc domes, and +5.5......sometimes pc's are fuel hungry, and sometimes not. that is why this particular pipe has no "mine is xxx, so you should start there" i have seen it several times, and even went through the second-guessing myself. my suggestion- start with the 300 and keep going up untill you get a wot sputter warmmed up and drop back down. the needle should be about the same, and the pilot sounds like you are gettin close. next, swap the reeds back to rule those out, and make sure there's no airleaks. if that doesn't make the difference, then it's time to completely tear down the carbs, right down to the airjets and emultion tubes, and compare to your old carbs.

yes, pics please....also, what colors are you lookin for on the cosmetics?

i'ma cheat and hook it to the dyna f/s......mabey i'll not read the tach 90% of the time, but hopefully, i can see the shift lights..... no matter how well you know when to shift, there's always that occasional instance that it would be nice

eventually? just start with the mains, and when you are sure, go strait to the needles, and mess with the pilot if you get any off-idle problems, or it won't adjust good with the airscrews

actually, for the price they want, you might just want to get some solstice led's from snoop....

i've always thought about running tose ones, too. i don't know how picky they will be on voltage, like the ones for your car/truck ususally are. you can do the 12v conversion and add a battery, or build the dampener and try them out from your rhino to see if they work good.....

.030" for pump gas, and that's also as far as you can go before you have re-chamber it

remember to make all adjustments to the enie when it is at operating temp, not cold.

2 things to look at.....the wires have been known to melt on the exhaust, by the side of the air box where they are supposed to clip in. and you can give the cdi the smack test, and see if the spark comes back. other than that- remove your flywheel cover and look for water/rust in there

so, will it idle and die off after a bit, or does it die instantly with no throttle? have you checked your pickup gap setting? what does the plug look like when it stalls?

oh, that sucks.....i still need some things, lol. have fun b/s, and do anything i wouldn't do.

ok, i can see that porting, squish and airleaks can throw your jetting off, but i do see one other thing it could possibly be. you say it has 0-8 needle jet. i don't remember what numbers are on the stockker, but i uses an emultion tube in there with a bunch of tiny holes in the side. it doesn't need to be restricted that much by an airjet, so they use a 1.4 airjet, which is extreemely huge as far as air jets go- almost the same size as the choke jet. it will allow allot of air to bypass the main jet, since it's about the same size.

just wondering the best way to strip the paint off the rad. i though about aircraft stripper, but that makes a huge gooey mess, so i was just seing what anyone else has used..

damn, that's just about the exact opposit minne will look like whaen i pc the frame flat black, lol

i have a pair of 4-6", i can't remember, lol. they are not perfect, but they are k&n brand, and clean with no melting or holes. i will not be home for 1 more week to be able to pull them off, but i need something to put on my 30's, so it sounds good to me, lol

you have some nice 304's to trade?

definately looks to be leaned off. how was the choke tune and intakes?

i have a good stocker that just needs seals, but the bearings are good. i don't have pics, but askin 50 shipped, obo. i won't be home for a week, but i can have my wifey ship it out, since it's already packed in a box.

x2, they are gonna need to fix the one you have anyways.

you can cut trannies?!?!?!?......'ole butty 'ole pal...... well, i was thinking on persuing cuttin my design of a woods override. i need to get one mapped out, but one of the biggest things i need to get right is the shift drum. other than that, allot of less, if you know what i mean, lol. are you running a standard star/spring in there? sounds like one of the problems is not enough pressure holding the drum in place, with it shifting on it's own

i wouldn't call it junk right off the bat, but it does look like a home made, or diy port job. it could've been a templet job, too, which might run decent. best thing to do is send it to a builder to check it out, or clean it up