AKheathen

it's not gonna work. not because of the length or anything like that, but because the trinity design sucks, basically. the short ass runners have real sharp anglesto congest and hinder topend, and that's all behind the carb/boot. so, it's not gonna matter if it's 1 carb, huge, or tiny, or 6 carbs of any size, the intake is not gonna flow without boost. i actually did think about the same exact thing the first time i saw one.....now thinking back a little more- it may be wide open just enough, and probably with some porting, you could possibly stand to gain a little topend. so, i may be wrong.........i still see the sharp angles to contend with. go ahead and give her a try- if there is enough relief of congestion, even stock carbs will flow more cfm, equivelant to 30's or a little bigger. not gonna be aout any money by doing it. let us know how it goes

i run a dd lockup with 3-3 spring setup and out-of-the-box weighting. i ride woods, trail, hillclim, and a little mx. the pull is pretty much unnoticale, unless i have it rapped out, and you don't really need to clutch then, lol. it hooks up amazingly better and smoother, and not suck a hard punch if i clutch it on a hillclimb.

well for 250, it would really have to be junk in every way to go wrong. even if it needed a new topend, reeds, clutch, bearings, and the ususall nick-knacks, you would still be money ahead

depending on what kind of ridding you do, and tooling, you can cut every-other dog off a few of the gears for better engagement chances, to lessen mised shifts and shorter times. best ompellar i've seen, hands down, is the mull press-on high flow. you use your stock shaft. for some reason, the aftermarket shafts just don't hold up as long as the stocker. what part wouldn't fit right on the modquad impellar?

we need to know your filter setup, elevation, and riding temps to get you close.

what's with all your <br>? anyways, i know exactly how a lectron works, and i will agree that it is a beautiful, and extreemly simple setup. i also see that it is entirely proprietary to lectron, thus allowing them to be as cheap as they want, since you are not going to find it anywhere else. once you get out of the circuit scene, you start to realize just how important at, and off idle is. i'm not the only one with the complaint of not being able to fine-tune the idle mixture without fucking with the entire throttle range. it's not a matter of complicating a simple system, but more in the lines of the same reason you throw an adjustible pj on a gasser. i like to reach down once in a while and give it a little turn, whether it be a 4 day ride, or a quick trip to the mx track, where the entire jetting doesn't really need to be touched, but it's nice to have it running like it was fuel injected. also, minor wear on the slide, or body, where the needle rides will have the biggest effect on idle, so it's nice to fine tune it for that reason, too. please try to be constructive and think about what i'm saying before pretentously dissmissing

it depends on your bore size, but near stock bore, and dune port, you should be fine with 20's down to 90oct. timing will effect this, too.

i meant remote airscrew there are 4 idle screw holes, and you only need 2. mine is on a rack, so only uses one, and it's also tapped for ballance to one bore. anyways, the idle screw holes, are also an access [port for vaccume side of the carbs. you screw in the same nipples as the bowl vent. i matched up a little valve at lowes, and attatched it to the airbox you are probably running pods, so you would need to pull air by taping into one pod, to do it clean, though. you would need to change the pj to run dual feed to each. one thing i'm gonna add to mine is the pj check valves. there's not really much of anything in the bowls, but the flot/needle assemblies, and the pickup sheild, which has an optional "filter" you can put in there. get ahold of one of the sponsors, and they can get you lined out with a pair of needles, and you should have no problem running gas. pretty simple to know if they are set for gravity, or pump. if the bowls fill up. if they only fill half-way, it's a pumper. but, if you don't trust it, you can check the needle assy. i think there's #'s, can't remember......

hmm, i cracked the shit out of my stocker as it is......it's just gonna be better for me to spend the $20 on a pivot tube, then fab the rest.

16-4, wow. i think that might be the alky needle. i'm running a 0-3, if i remember. i wanna say you should be like 0-4, 1-4, 1-3, or close. my 0-3 is for the lectron pj's on gas. i go strait to wildcard for my lectron needs, but i hear everyone say redline is big in lectrons. one thing hat i did do was install a remote idle screw for them, and it helped tune the idle tons.

hahahahahaha, i know i've seen that add before, and on different pistons, if i remember. those ones just have a little hole drilled in them. the wsm's are 100x better. the boost port is matched to the cyls, and the main windows completely reshaped. they are also redesigned for more strength with those port shapes, rather than a stock style piston that's modified

that's because most ricer builds come from the first, newest econo in a $500 budget, which rules out the older rwd hidden tresures, and higher dollar sports cars.

i didn't watch the vid, but it's definately time for a topend with 15psi difference. even though, check for airleaks, like cracked intake boots, loose clamps, etc, and clean out the carbs good. could be a melted piston from running lean.

hahahahahahahaha, yes, most definately put grease zircs on both swingarm tube and carrier. just pop the plastic shields off the axle bearings, so the grease gets through. run that shit through hell and back, under water, whatever. oh, and pressure was the extra grease off seriously, i tapped mine, and just did my rusted to shit swinger bushings the other night.....don't wanna do that shit again without a die grinder. and i covered them with boat trailer grease.

............no reply?

the problem os the enrichment setup on the 4stroke carbs. 2strokes don't use enrichment, or it can sputter out everytime you hit the gas.

all this talk about "omg, that's crazy mix" but no has mentioned jetting, in regards to how to mix based on fuel delivery/use. yah, it may sound bad to throw that much oil in there, but when the bike is new, stock with snorkel and all, you need that much more oil to keep up with the limited amount of fuel carrying it. the more advanced the oil, the less you need, since it will hang around longer to protect the engine, before burning off. the higher the jetting needs, or fuel use, really, the less you need to add oil, hence less mixture of oil in ther fuel will get you the same amout of lube... i would not trust yamalube to not separate, etc at more than 32:1, personally.

imo, whoever is gonna port first should get the t-5's, lol. but seriously, they are verry similar pipes in many ways, just the rpm's are shifted a little from one to the other, and i think the t-5's were more lightswitch on a sock motor. x3 on trying them both out, make sure they are both jetted right first, and pay attention on how nice the ride is, not the sound....oh, and make sure the silencers are packed and not plugged up or burned out.

inline coolers don't do shit but look purdy also. just run good coolant and keep it jetted right.

yah, the head gaskets should be installed clean-dry, but i have seen some use that coper tack spray on there fine, but don't use anything else.

haven't you been keepin up with the forum the last few months? we aren't nice or serious as much anymore. it's bad for buisiness

yah, that's exactly why i was suggesting no more than 32, but best closer to 30

oh, actually, stock carbs have a REALLY bad problem with water. it will do just that- rev out real high like an air leak. when that happens, keep pulling the choke. it will come right back down, and let it out as it starts to load up. repeat untill the water steams out of the carbs and they will work perfectly fine again. while you have it apart, seal the cable entry with vaseline or grease and see what you can do about preventing any other water entry in the future.

mark your throttle and see exactly where it happens. if it's been doin it singe you put the carbs on, it's somethin around there. either the wires under the carbs, airleak, or in the carbs. if you can just barely gas it before it hapens, like 1/8'th og, then it may be your needles or air jet, mabey even the needle jet. can you roll-on the throttle more and run good?

yah idiot