AKheathen

pretty simple. it doesn't happen often, but i'd like to know why....especially if i'm waiting for a response in the f/s section.

no shit...it really sucks when you have a slow, or shred connection and you have to load 10 2400x1900 pics 3-4 times each, and the page keeps jumping around when it resizes 40x, and you can read shit without walking away for a smoke just to let it finish. that being said- i like to get payback by quoting/replying to as many big pic posts as i can, so everyone else gets the pic, too. a few times, i did it just to say "just quoting a bunch of pics like you other assholes"

there's allot of things you can do. just fuck around with it and find what's comfortable. you can use the throttle to bounce the front and it will pull up fine. you can put your foot on the grab and pull it up as high as you want. when you try to rip up on it, let the bike launch foreward some before riping back on it and momentub will do some work for you. (you have to allow yourself to slide back, not launch with it) it's not gonna work lugging it down like a poker, and the more you weigh, the better. my 160# ass has to work a little harder. smaller front sprocket will really help torque, too.

lol, just saw this, and how old it is. bottom line, a magazine is only worth while when each issue sells more copies than this site has members.

either the end of the shift shaft, or clutch cover has worn and the claw jumped off the end of the star pegs, or a broken spring or eccentric screw. either way, it would be a problem under your clutch cover.

huh? i can tell you that i downhill some pretty steep shit, and if i put anymore foreward load on it, it will roll over. you pretty much have to stand it strait up on the nose to get the tank to leak like that. i wouldn't really call the coolant caustic, unless it's so old it starts eating away at your engine. it will leave some water spots, though, but they can be cleaned, lol. even off my white pipes.

yes, it can be fixed, but that wire is probably too cooked. take a heat gun/micro torch, and all that white coating will soften up enough to pick/scrape off. then pull that magnet wire up and check it going into that first pole. there actually should be 3 bunched together for strength. you should be able to see if one is cooked, or if it's salvageable. epoxy the pieces back together. if it's cooked, then you probably need to re-wrap the whole post.

just got an Odyssey 250.........i wonder if that topend will bolt-on. how much

a few things- yes actually, the coolant does return to the radiator when it cools off. that is why the rad. cap hose goes to the bottom of the bottle- so it doesn't just feed air back in. and, having the overflow hose routed to drip on the exhaust lets you know when it's overheating. fix the overheating issue, not the warning symptom. the recovery tank has to be completely full before it starts spitting out. 3 main things that usually cause the cooling system to hot-spit when filled correctly, but otherwise maintain fine. poor coolant condition, lean jetting, and bad impeller. next, if you want to open the filter up, figure out what will work for your riding conditions. one popular option keeping the box is a billet adapter that bolts in the box, so the lid is optional, and you can run a k&n.

to match the clearance to the individual pistons.

it can melt and still move just fine

welcome. it sounds like your flywheel came off. pull the stator cover (shifter side) and check that first. if it did come off, you are probably going to need to buy a key, nut, loctite, and dress up the taper/bore if there is galling. it may have damaged the pickup and/or stator as well. if that's not it, then you could have melted a piston.

actually, it is going to need to be punched out untill all the rust pitting is gone, and then a little more, probably, to get to the first useable size. it would be best to go with a builder that already has pistons on hand to match the bore, so you don't have to wait to find out what size you need.

wow, i never saw how bad he fucked those up, lol

check that you have the correct bowl on the choke carb. when you pull the bowl off the choke carb, you will see a little jet, like the pilot, in the bottom of the hole the pickup tube goes in. pull the jet out, clean, and blow out the passage

and send your pistons with them.

yes, you remove the main jet and washer, then install just the main jet and push it through firmly. it has an o-ring, and can get a little stuck with corrosion, so some are hard to remove, and some are easy, and if you forget the washer, it can come out and run funny. the stock carbs use an emulsion tube, like an automotive carb, in place of the needle jet. that, also could be a problem. and, the choke tube is a peice of vacuum hose that connects the 2 carbs together. if you took them off, then you messed with it.

if they got really mudded, then there could be more passages you are not checking, like the airscrew and airjet holes at the mouth of the carb. did you put the choke tube in the right spot? directly across from the back of the choke to the same place on the other carb. if you stick that on a vent tube, if possible, the right will pull ir from the left, and maybe pull a little vacuum on the bowl to slow fuel to the left. now, you say you have spark, but not the best. that's probably the big problem right now. weak spark can fire a well atomized fuel, like the carb cleaner, but have a hard time igniting cold fuel. (hence the choke needing to over-richen) another thing is the slide height. too high and it won't pull fuel while you are kicking it (unless you take the filter off and hold your hand over the carb) check your pickup gap, and make sure you put the screw back on the cable retainer that attaches the wires to the back of the timing plate. that is your engine ground. you can use a sparkplug box flap to set the gap. another thing that will simulate weak spark is the keyswitch wires loosing connection. it will only spark some. same thing with a weak stator, which will spark every 2-3 kicks. make sure the plugs are clean, and not with a wire wheel.

i won't lie and tell you that i know it's rated more, but i've seen the 10w solsctice, and all the others, (i think...like 6 setups) that they make. on display at a few stereo shops. and i have the 120v versions of the 3 led(7watts total) and 4 led(10watts total) but , like podtunes' 6watters, they do use individual reflectors, too. i'm just going off the visible light output that i can see with my own eyes, and the solsctice were nice, but not as awe-inspiring as i thought they were. i'm not trying to talk shit about them, but they are not the only viable option either. especially at 115 a pop

welcome. you know payy?

they sell reveal lights. kinda blue-purple-ish tint to them, but definitely not yellow. that one would definitely not put out much light at 1.5 watts, but if you can get some from ge that have 3or 4 leds, maybe more, and at min. 7 watts total, and they really do put out some light. same, or better than the solstice led. and yes, I've seen that solstice with my own eyes.

snagged this pic from the f/s section you should be able to get the gears lined out from that pic.

roundhouse carrier or stock?

yes, 7 fibres. the pressure plate, is the outter peice that you put on with the springs. i think you put it on in a way that the little arrows line up with dots on the basket, but all i do is stick it on, and if it doesn't slide down against the clutches, then pull it off and turn it to the next spring hole, and it will go on all the way.

yes, definately worth it. unless you build that thing up huge and need to upgrade, you'll likely forget all that you did to it long before ever needing to pop it open again. at least it's not more than 15min to put the thrust washer back in. there is also one on both sides of the hub, if i remember correctly. i also used loctite on the nut, not just the locking washer.