AKheathen

yes, 2 sizes makes 300. when it hits 32 and below, you are going to need another 1-2 sizes right around there, because of the significant humidity change, coupled with the temp drop. there is also a tep range, ususally 30, that you have to watch out for oil separation and major viscosity change. you will need to adjust the air screws around 40, and think about the pilots and needle below freezing...

yah, that's just the nature of the beast. the clutch plates stick when you release them no matter what you do. it should clunk when you put it in gear, because that is when they release. if you were to pull the clutch put it in gear, and turn it off, it will roll easy until you let the clutch engage again. when you worry is when it lunges foreward, kills the engine, or just doesn't really disengage with the engine running. the shifting can be tightened up a bit with just routine mantenance, like the shift shaft bearings, keeping the lever snug on the splines, preventing varnish build-up, etc, but it never really gets 100%

business card, not credit card. credit cards are way too thick, lol.....i use a spark plug box flap, though. chances are, you have a wiring problem somewhere in the front, either at the wire connections by the radiator, or, as mentioned, the key-switch. the wires can break off at the solder on the switch. easy fix if you're good with an iron. start by testing the whole circuit at the harness cdi connector. test black to frame, black to engine, and black to black coil wire. they should all zero out on the ohm meter. next, test the red/black wire to black. it should zero when the key is on, and read nothing with the key off. next, black/white to black. it should read nothing until you put the kill switch in off position. if you get continuity there, then first, check to make sure the tors control box is unplugged (little 3-wire box next to the coil) and test again. as mentioned, check for melting in the harness by the exhaust. the harness is supposed to be clipped to the side of the air box to prevent this, but it doesn't always get put back to a safe spot. if you haven't found anything yet, get to ohming the stator from the same connector. btw- how did you go about removing/installing the flywheel? tit you use the Yamaha puller? did you make sure the key was in square with the crank center, not the taper? and last dumb question- have you checked for spark with someone kickin it over for you?

i have found that tensil strength ususally doesn't mean 2 shits untill you get over 80hp. my bike is not a tractor, so i don't need to pull that much. i run a wps chain, currently, and it seems to handle quite the abuse. not just the riding i do, but phisical damage to the chain itself. i had some roller bearings go out, rick strikes, and still managed knarly hilclimbs in 1-3rd, as well as jumping and such, before replacing it because of mushrooming the side that ran across the shaft of the rollers. i have a good ole steel rental front and stock rear, too...which seem to hold up well. most important things about a chain is proper adjustment, good swinger bearings, and lube.

he was probably hinting at what fuel to run, lol do your leak-down first, as mentioned, then start pulling it down in stages. it could be a crank bearing, broken reed, flywheel, pto gearing, blown head gasket(more common than you think on a fresh top-end) you never know for sure untill you actually see what happened.

cheap 10-30 can work. you want to stay away from anything with friction modifiers. also, the thicker the oil, the longer it will take for the clutch to engage. basically, the clutch will slip a bit when you dump it. detergents, however, are good. if you normally run type f, then there is no compatibility issue, either.

definately see ring snagging on both, and deto on the one. did you gap the rings? check bore clearance? looks kinda lean, too. a lot of baked-on oil. could have been oil separatoin, air leak, or simply jetting. did you account for cooling temps? need more info

21-22mm no gasket

actually, they are going to run well. coolheads are for versitility and bling, if you need that. if you don't plan on changing domes, and want to saty on pump, then the mull head will wok great for you

you ever get it tuned?

i've done it once, lol... you usually only do it when you can't seem to get it, like when learning how it should run

okay.....those trinity pipes will be pretty decent for dune setup.... start off with 186 degrees exhaust, keeping nice, curved edge to the shape of the opening, and widen it to 65% of bore diameter. set the transfers to 124 degrees open. chamfer all edges to prevent ring snag, and break it in on these timings. you can cut more out to increase durations after-wards, without needing to re-bore/hone, as ling as you don't ding them up again. if you find that the power seems to be too low in the rpm range, you can increase the exhaust duration, but keep the blow-down no more than 32 degrees. ideally, between 29.5 and 32 degrees blow-down is a good range to work with. if it seems a bit too peaky, and fall "off the pipe" too sharply, you can smooth it by decreasing blow-down when you increase transfer duration.

you are going to need to re-torque the head after a few heat cycles, but the worst thing you can do is baby it and over-oil it. free-running just dulls the rings, because there is very little pressure behind the rings to make them cut.

i ran +5.5 on the plate, and 0 on the plate with the dyna installed.....there is a noticable difference. the plate was harder, with kick-back, but the engine itself did fire better. ..i'll have to check into that cable...

if you do some searching around, you will find pretty much all the answers you seek. i can tell you that the china radiators have received some good feed-back, so far, but they haven't been around long enough for some long-term feed-back. upgrading the radiator, however is usually something you do once you get pretty far allong on a build, where the extra cooling is needed, or if yours has failed. there are other things you can spend the money on first. while the clutch cover is off, you probably want to inspect the clutch plates and gear bushings, etc....possibly upgrade the clutch, i most definitely suggest a pancake bearing, and i know i personally could not resist shift star and shift shaft mod first time i opened mine.

first thing- the tr-6 pipes are made for a stock motor. they will definitely choke out the 4mill. i forgot to ask, and assumed that you are using recessed domes, or head, or at least a head spacer. are you using the spacer plate under the cylinders? that will make it back to more top-end power range, but not leave enough material in the transfers for a decent mid-range power. best thing you can do is ditch the plate if you have it, and measure the degrees of when each port opens using the degree wheel. in worse case scenario, where you are just guessing, simply opening the top of the exhaust (like you are doing with the bottom of the exhaust port) by 1.5mm-2mm will get you kind of close to a decent running port time. if you can map it out- you want the exhaust to be open for about 186-188 degrees of rotation, and the transfers 30-31 degrees after that, for a total open time of 128-124 degrees. try to keep them resembling the same over-all shaping as stock, but angling the air a little more upward and toward the carbs. keep the center transfer that paints at the reeds at a steep angle, and widen it some. i could not come up with any info on the "stage 3" pipes you are talking about, but i hae seen some European pipes made resembling older fmf pipes that have a more mid to mid-top power profile, which is dune friendly, but will also make a big difference in how you should be ported. so, i need as much information on the pipes as you can give, and what method you are using for the stroker clearance (plate, domes, etc)

when you are jetted right, and not over-oiling, or running really contaminated fuel, the 8's should run perfect. when you need 9's, like for alky, then plug chops are said not to be readable, because of the fuel, so................go back to the 8's, get the mains verified with the chop, and tune the needles and pilots to run good. if you cannot do that and still believe you need the 9's, or you throw them in and the 9's seem to work better, then get some denso iridiums, and they will run better, and be in the proper heat range. i believe iw24's? they will have the reference to the ngk "8" series on the site. either 27, or 24 is the 8&9 range.

well, you need to go buy some mikuni cable adjusters. i think they are 5mm threads. idk what cable you had that the adjusters don't stay in the caps, and you just pull the cable out

oh, do a leak-down test when you are done, and check for plugged jets/passages, or other fuel issues in that carb. still you will need at least a hone. have the cylinders mic'd with bore gauges to see if you need to bore to the next size, then have the new pistons there to match clearance to the exact pistons.

um, if it's not broken in yet, then why are you doing it? to answer all your questions, have them mic'd out to see what size it can take, and what clearance it has with the pistons. possible ring job/hone?

well, if you have a setup that will mainly benefit from a tuned timing set in one range, like mid, top, or lowend, than by all means, the plate is the best option. however, if you are trying to fine tune the entire range, then the dyna provides modified curves that advance/retard in a different profile than stock, right out of the box. they also provide stronger spark through a stock coil. you can further tune the profile with software for $100, or through someone willing to do it for you. the average joe ridding dune, woods, mx, and also most drag scene will have a confined range use, and full range curve adjustment will be fine with a plate that is set to work best in the main range. i like mine because i can fine tune as much advance as i want right off the bottom by also using a plate, and retard at my desired curve to run best tuned at any rpm. another thing about using the plate, is easier starting. even though the enhanced spark helps there, too, the dyna will not advance until it is actually already running. the plate on the other hand, will be advanced from the first kick. it basically all comes down to whether or not you want to shell out that much for the little bit of fine tuning which is a small gain more than the big jump you gain from advancing period. there is also different models of the dyna adjustable, and the $300+ model is the programmable one, which also accommodates pv's "launch" electronic pj's, tach out, and all around versatility that most people will not use anyways.

as stated, first plan of attack is a thread file....start with the good threads and work your way out. they are pretty damn hard.then, if there is really bad threads on the end, you can probably get away with cutting 1, maybe 2 off, them of and finishing with a thread chase/die.

well, you need the choke to start it when it's cold, except, i think real hot climates. of coarse, if it takes 5+ kicks, or a little throttle to start that doesn't count. have you ever needed to change a fouled plug? i can start mine with the choke 1-2 kicks after sitting for a month 50 to -30f. first kick hot/warm, but it takes quite a few without the choke. and i can let it idle all day like that, low smoke, and stays hot. it will generally run ok rich, just not great, and usually only matters for those who get technical.

actually, it not setting, other than the 1" on both ends would be a good thing. think about it- the best dampeners on the market are fluidampeners, and the cheapest are just rubber and steel...

i'm goin with improper clearance and/or heat/lean