AKheathen

well, that's sweet...you can usually pick those up for around $10

how much pressure did it lose? you can loose 1 psi in 6 min. and, why don't you seal up that rubber plug? a leak is a leak, and never good.

oh, that's wastefull........don't throw out complete ignorance, recycle it

did you do it all at once? the biggest bump is in the exhaust. if you did not run it both before and after touching just the transfers, then that's a real biased result. looks like all you did was increase case volume, and lower velocity. you can smooth out flow some, but the more you try to let it flow, the more all the porting has to move gas, in order to keep up with the velocity, and pressure

it's said that they can run decent with up to 1mm gaping. they close up when it's running. make sure there is no crap in there keeping them open, though.

it's the same on, or off the bike 13.7-21.4, i believe, red-to green....and like 90-120 for red/white to green/white..

you have to ohm the stator out, and yes, it can just go bad, especially with heat and high revs. make sure the red/black wire sees ground, and the black/white wire doesn't, when testing the harness at the cdi plug, and key/killswitch both "on/run"

well, the flywheel pretty much tops out around 7k+rpm, so, basically, the stator should put out 200watts from the lighting when you are in the pipe........but that's down at 10v and under. it generally keeps the voltage high enough for decent light output around 70% load, and that's 2krpm+ (a little higher than idle, like just cruisin around) the 150 watts is only 75%, so it would work ok, unless you have the tail light(13watts), and, of coarse, the stock harness ground isn't ideal for over 100watts, but will work...

yah, the transfers are real important not to screw up. you can stand to loose a large amount of power. first you have to put it on a degree wheel, then you have to match the degrees of rotatoin to have proper blow-down, and time/area, then shape, angle, and velocity.......if you cannot calculate and figure all these things, then it's better to leave it stock, other than mabey casting flaws....but don't change the shape, even the "hook" ridge in the opening. if you have "mild" porting already, then the exhaust time area is probably small enough that there is very little that stock transfers need touched, and you probably wouldn't notice the difference anyways.

now, keep in mind, i said "probably" I'd hate to see you go replacing a good basket, lol......you just need to pull the clutch discs and check the different plays. radial is the basket conical washer and cushions. wobbling is just the bushing. really, the basket doesn't need replacing until the fingers get real grooved, and makes your bike creep and jump in gear with the clutch released. that idler gear needs tightened up, though....

yah, the stock carbs with one single choke tube is much better tan ones with multiple choke tubes

well....price?

remember to tune it to a hot engine, or you could have hot-starting trouble, and/or plug fouling

probably the clutch basket/hub or idler bushings are worn

what's the deal on the cyls?

x2, i think it was an 8", or 10" when i had stockers....just reach over the left carb to adjust the right...you can see it if you remove the seat. the wires will move

um, no yes i don't know wwhere all the confusion is coming from lately, but a stroker is not related to blaster pistons....there is no such thing as stroker pistons either say wha?

might want to beef up the frame to stator/engine ground.....and 200w is max rated...you usually don't ever see that much output. that 150 watts is pretty much as much as you can run ok on it

well, you could lift the skirt and go from behind if you want, or just make sure the skirt doesn't cover the hole, or it can get sticky.......the nipples are optional

oohh, yah...i aslo just reeemimbard the nue S Pelchek pieps fore stoc mowters

tummy tr-6es fore 'eh stoek injun aure gudder...

bumpity

well, if you are looking in the 1k-1500 range, then you can just go 4mill. or even go to a serval 421 package. that's 80hpthat you can bolt right on with what you got, and do the rest later......but the servals are only at the sale price for a little while, untill supplies run out. otherwise, you can just go up to a 4 mill dune/play port, and upgrade to 30's. toomey stingers make fmf's run better, too. if you port for a stock stroke crank, then you usually cant get good port out of it if you want to go 4mill stroker later. mostly, end up with a drag port (all top-end power, and no bottom/mid driveability)

as far as i've seen/heard, that's how everyone puts them on

what did you use to seal tle cases? rtv and such will deteriorate as soon as gas hits it....