AKheathen

yes, jeff is still awesome, lol.......nowadays, everyone is sticking to the site sponsors without regret......those who don't.......not so much

what is your filter setup? lid and/or snorkel?

man, i wish i had a setup to stage with and take measurements..........i think i can make a cheap fix for all who did the conversion, but i'm not certain on the upper placement, once in it's proper orientation.....

somewhere, there is a bore gauge screamin "fondle me! i want to get shoved in all different parts of those cylinders".......seriously, though, those scores need to be cleaned up, and checked for clearance of a new set of pistons. i'd hate to get new pistons, just to find out they are too sloppy

like i said, there are few coils that will test that way. it's not just hearsay, speculatoin, or guessing.........we have gone through this a few times, and it resulted in guys go9ng out and testing their good running coils. the majority tests cap to cap only, but few test to the ground. i have pondered about it many times, and all i can think of is that it might ground to the body mid-winding (hence, the need to have bare metal to mount the coil) otherwise, one bad side would cut off the other, as mentioned. ok, to answer your questions- first, you can use any solid core non-resistor wires. it's the caps that have the resistor, and those are standard mantenance items, like replacing your distributor cap on a car. i don't know if it's a new thing over the past few years, but ricky stator and others use 30awg mag wire on the ignition windings, whereas 29awg is needed to handle the current. the only way to make a rs, or like stator reliable is completely re-wrap the ignition windings. as of now, the only known reliable stator is stock, and stock rewound, if you need more power... .....btw, it's about time that writeup was updated .....if we could only fix the jetting faq, that would be awesome

pics will tell the whole story........it could also have been something as simple as a plugged main jet, which can run that cylinder and that side of the crank dry, or melt it down. it may seem like "broke is broke" but you don't want it happening again from something so menial. one good reason to check things out when it's not running right... many things it could be.........as for the crank, yes, just replace it, once the webbing gets damaged. don't just trust any old used crank though, you want a low-hours, recently rebuilt, trued/welded, or best thing is new....

haha...um.....tester goes on ohms, lol....anyways......you test the secondary wire to wire most years.......i think there was few years that test wire to ground pole. 5380 is within spec, not counting caps, if they are 5k. try your coil again without the caps on. the resistor caps have brittle resistors in them which can read open, but still let spark through across the break. it will just give you a miss, or weak spark. now, as for the stator, it sounds like it got cooked. low resistance on the stator means wires are shorting in the windings. the symptoms will show as hard starting, and weak spark. so, it probably doesn't spark every kick, or rotation, because it can't charge the cdi enough in 1/2 rotation for it to discharge a spark pulse. sounds like you need both a new stator, and caps. it is verry common to find a bad reading cap, or both when troubleshooting, since it usually still runs ok...

not sure....i suppose it may work just to flush all the crap out and get it clean, but any oil/residue left over would need to flash off and leave the parts oiled in their normal oil. it may stink a little more, but, i think a bucket of diesel is just easier to get, and proven......plus, you can mix it in with your lawn mower gas, or car to dispose......and, either will burn in a bon fire

i have both of those pipes, and can tell you they are both awesome....the pro-circuit speaks for itself, but those fmf's pull pretty damn nice on top

pics..

the slides should make a "thunk" when they bottom out without the idle screw. if they are floppin around side to side, then you probably just need new ones......... pics might help

wow, pretty quick to hand out hot-wire instructions to a new guy without question......

if you use photobucket to host your pics, you can make them bigger, so we can see better

i'm pretty sure that's just a rumor.......officially, there is just one curve. when it comes to aftermarket cdi's, i believe some have differences, other than the rev limiter parking brake. basically, you need an aftermarket to change the curve, and from the sound of it, you might benifit well with more retard in the top...

that sounds like a good place to start right there. the slides do have a vent hole in them, so any air is meant to cycle between the top and bottom of the slide.... if you are in a pinch, you can use permatex 3-c flange sealant........i removed my gaskets to take up some slide slack in my lectrons and just used that, and it worked great, plus it's fuel safe

key phrase is "used to"

how did you go about running the stock head? is it recessed the extra 1.5mm for proper clearance? also, the stock head chambers range from 22cc to 25cc, which you can only tell by measuring them with fluid. it is possible, as i mentioned, that you are getting high readings from the 22+2 domes. what did that stock head kick out anyways?

well, a guy who has such a fucked-up attitude toward the bhq deserves nothing but bullshit, so that's what he gets.......sorry mike...you might not want to get into it ...oh, and closet fags usually do have a nice sexually frustrated wife.....*hint, hint mikey

just check the oil bottle....it should say operating temp, and usually states when there is separation issues. i run 100% synthetic, and mine doesn't ever separate, even below -30f, 90oct. or 100LL...simple test- remove the lid and see if it gets better. 1 size rich, or 1 size lean, it should still run fine, and 2 sizes should still pretty much get in the powerband....if you are having a lot of trouble trying to get the jetting by feel, then richen until it sputters some, and go down until it cleans out, and plug chop is a good learning tool...

took ya 5 days to come up with that one?.......smart, you is

so, your a 50 year old pussy that likes to get his nuts touched by guys.........and likes watching men spank each-other? i think you need some ben-gay and counseling...

it will pretty much loose some throaty sound to it, maybe some poping, but you probably wouldn't notice that it's just a little too lean unless you are in 5th-6th and throttle response flattens out from like 3/4 to wot. one other thing to watch out for is premix separation...

i'm smarter than you

i've done that, too...lid on for winter...it's good for 2 jet sizes, which is 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit......but, always make sure, and, you will be surprised how cold you will ride in, once you feel what that cold, dense, dry air does for your engine

ok 3 things....first, check to see how the octane is rated.....it should say something at the pump about it. here, they say "(R+M)/2" that would set weather you should be running 23, or 24cc domes.....keep in mind, that it will lower compression if you move to cylinders with smaller bore, adn increase compression as you move to lower elevation, and when the rings seat. second, check your compression gauge. make sure the end of it where it screws into the cylinder is the same length as the spark pug (br8) and that it has the valve at the very tip. stock compression should be around 125psi sea level, and yours read 145? @2200'. it is possible that your gauge is reading high. third, it is a good idea to do a leak-down test on the top-end.....