AKheathen

i might be interested in the wheels....can you get me a price, and bolt pattern, mabey have to measure the hub, from center of spindle, to stud center..........me and a freind are building up an Odyssey, and i was just lookin at the 3-bolt pattern....

cold air is more dense, meaning more is going through the engine, in turn, needing more fuel. also, freezing air is significantly dryer, which leaves a lack of moisture dilution of the air, again, needing more fuel in the air....

sorry, i didn't think that far ahead.....and don't have pics like that............john, on the other hand.............

the caps are just brittle cores that can, and do crack/deteriorate, just like resistor plug wires on your car/truck, which is why you replace them regularly. now, they usually still spark for quite some time after they crack, but resistance goes up, and vibration makes it inconsistant. if they are all old, i'd immagine they need replaced. as far as usin an osciloscope, you can use one on the stator to see a bad flywheel magnet, but the cdi is a capacitance discharge ignition, so it's going to build and store energy and discharge one pulse at a time, and i have no idea what it should measure, or where to find out, aside from measuring a known good system

i had that same fitting pop out of the case over a year ago......good thing i didn't go through water on that ride, lol........found out when it dumped a quart all over the ground. check to see if the white fitting is still attatched to the end of the vent hose t'd into the clutch cover. if it is, you can just push it back into the gromet, getting in there to do it is the hard part.

ok, i'm gonna sleep on it....but, i'm thinkin 150....

first, it's winter...the thing naturally wants to suck more fuel. make sure your filter is clean, and not over-oiled, same with making sure the outterware isn't restricting. not riding hard, mabey even rich on the needle, or airscrew. tune that hing when it gets hot, so there is no sputter. 2hours really isn't that bad this time of year, especially for your build.

test them from cap to cap. remember, most caps are 5k, so it can read as high as ~16,000. if you get nothing this way, take one cap off at a time, and test. still nothing- take the wires out and test right in the coil....

wow, didn't expect that one, lol......... check your eccentric screw and don't ever force the shifter down. just replace the whole shift shaft. you might as well pull it out now and check the seals and bearings.

wtf????who is this troll, now?

well, first, what pipes do you have to start with? x2 on getting with a builder. make a long-term plan, and base upgrades choices on that. for instance, you can have your head worked for cheaper than a cool-head, but it may be better to get a cool-head if you plan on stroking, or changing compression later, ignition, clutch, tranny options, etc........ an override is good for drag, verry good, actually, but there are several different types, and if you are riding off the strip, you could blow it up just from back-loading...

i run mine through creeks, rivers, deep puddles, and such all the time...it's a blast......

there are a selection of pipes, but whats best will depend on use, and what you want.......

did you pick up a cylinder from one of us, or a brand new one?

lol, still.........put well-mixed wd-40 in there and let it creep around..........unless you want that custom chassis to rot away.

'eehh-hhheeemm.....that's "CAPTAIN obvious"........

aahhhh, nooo............not anodder dechidion.............oh, man, now i'm doin the potty dance whether to buy or not.......

um....so you got one that's not polished, and needs to be.........and you expect someone to jump in and trade their already polished one for it???

i don't know if it will help any, but i got this one ind. graphics seat cover........it was supposed to be 06 se yellow graphics, but they sent blue, instead........lmk if interested...

i've been searching all over since you asked, and all i can come up with is this- the stock stroke serval is available, from the sounds, but you have to contact jeff(f.a.s.t.) or andy (m$m atv) to get it. i could not actually find the specs on it, so i do not know what the deck height is built for. i'm assuming that it's made stock deck height, and runs the special blaster pistons with the lower banshee pin location, in which case, all you would need to do is run regular blaster pistons with your long rod crank.....possibly are going to need slight squish correction, but probably not...

i would suspect a seal in the caliper, if it happened after changing the pads. also, make sure the pedal isn't adjusted out too far, keeping it from leaving the reservoir orifice open normally. good way to tell is by pushing the pad in and see if it pushes fluid back into the reservoir easily. not real likely the prob, but possible...

i was referring to the stock stator, not carbs..... stock carbs suck up here......big balls...

it will rust like crazy, if you don't keep up with it..... like every ride...

another thread?.......silver solder---> file---->mirror sand/polish