AKheathen

holy 9 year old thread revival, lol..... but dont forget about roll-on throttle. stock carbs have too tight of a venturri to handle moisture well, which is the main reason they tend to runaway. stock pipes were restrictive enough to not really need much more, but swap those to certain pipes, and the problem gets much worse. ideally, you want to stick to carbs that match the cfm (pulsed) of the engine, but lower rpm can loose suction on the jets at wot, which is why you can train yourself for roll-on throttle, instead of wot stabs, and pick up a good running bottom end. on that point, technically, you could pick up some 44-48mm carbs made for the 6-800cc range and set them to open half at wot, but then there is the problem of the shape of the opening and both sides of the opening that will mess with things, and probably an issue with the size of the emulsion tube and orifices, making it different than the equivalent area carb full open.

make sure the pipe isnt full of coolant

the engine will react when it sucks in the gas instead of air. if you dont find any leaks, its probably a plugged jet

use a propane torch, not lit of course, and gas around the intakes and carbs to check for air leaks. what is the exhaust doing? one side different or smoking more/less?

soak them in the oil you are going to be using in the case, not diesel oil. as for clutch adjustment, take the cable off and use a screw driver or something to feel the freeplay in the lever. then put the cable back on and adjust to the arrow, which should be in the middle of the freeplay somewhere.

what other mods?

first, view stripped foot peg sticky, which is the main reason for lack of replies. next, o belive cascade make foot peg "slip-ons" there is not one thing that cant be fixed on the banshee frame. only a whole lot of them would kill ya. if you want longer pegs, stop using your purse, pick up a grinder and figure out how to bolt longer pegs on. nerf bars have a net. mostly to keep things from stabbing your feet, but also to keep your feet from stabbing the ground when they slip. o dont know that there is one better than another for catching your feet, but there is a good selection. you can also grind the foot pegs sharper, only issue is if you shin them.

long story short: i did the same thing on one of my first rides. wrapped the joint with mcdanalds nugget box and kept going for a while. the expansion chamber works like a turbo. among the differences, is that it uses the restriction shape and timing to send the exhast pulse back to the exhaust port at a certain time. if the port is still open, it stuffs the cylinder with more pressure. the time is related to rpm, and thats why they work better at certain rpm ranges. the restriction of the "stinger" and its own time value has an effect on how strong the pulse reflects back to the port to stuff the cylinder with more pressure. having a leak right at the back of the chamber lowers the pressure of the spike back. the distance also lowers the pressure, or raises it, depending.

jetting is more about throttle range than rpm range. sputter means rich.

"full port job" tells nothing. porting should be done on the builder level. a builder should be able to tell you which fat jets to start with, so you can tune it from there, usually within 1-2 sizes from perfect. ...that being said: holy shit that is fat as hell on the getting. i bet it sputters down like crazy. a master jet kit is ideal, but if you are buying individual, get some 27.5, 270, 290, 310, and 320. honestly, i want to say you will find 280 if the sweet spot for your setup, but i have no idea about the porting, and 290 would work fine, while being safer. get it hot, then do some hard pulls through all the gears, barring any huge hesitations and evaluate. 2 sizes rich, and it will start to sputter at wot. 2 sizes too lean and you'll get a big wot hesitation. one size either way, and aslo in lower gears, its not so obvious. you want to find the 2 extremes and get between them. things that will make a big difference: humidity. i say this first because its more overlooked, and less noticed till your bike acts up. more moisture means less air and same fuel. it wants to lean to burn right. temperature. more heat means the fuel will act differently. all fuel is multigrade. basically, the lighter fuel will use up the oxygen fast and leve unburned "diesel to go out the exhaust and load up the plug. less fuel for more heat, more fuel for colder air. restriction: imagine a shop vac hose with a jet in it. put your hand on it and it will pul more from the jet. remove your hand and it will pull less. air filter restriction from being dirty, air filter housing, etc. all effects fuel draw. always start with the main jets wot, then adjust the needle for mid, then pilot and airscrew for mixture and off idle acelleration.

at least they are not drag [ported. you dont have much to work with being dune ported, though, but the whole setup matters. you DO have the meat for a dune/drag 4mil. for another dune or mx port, you have to get creative and pull up the transfer ports to stretch down the power into lower rpms. it will sacrifice peak hp, but at the same time, give you far more useful power range. dont nix the air hooks, but you can manipulate them, or just copy them if you dont know how.

What I've done on tractor kingpins before is use a flap wheel when there wasn't a reamer available. As long as the bulge or burr isn't that big. Does anyone have the exact dimensions of the bushing? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Pic of what you are talking about? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Get down low, and look up on the frame cross bar where the coil mounts. You will see a little black box on the bottom of that bar. Has 3 wires. Yellow/black, black/white, and black. Unplug that plug and the tors will be disabled. Sounds like the idle is set too low, at least for that jetting. Seat the air screws and back out 2 turns. No real sense changing the jetting before the pipes get there. Which pipes? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Buy the carbs last. The stock ones will work fine till you have the motor ported. If easier, you might be able to send just the cylinders, head and pistons to the builder. It's not ideal, but might make shipping a whole lot easier. When your motor is built/ported, the builder will have a good recommendation on the proper size for the carbs. Might be 28, or might be 33, most likely 30s. Pro circuits have a lot of head room to increase the flow. I like to stay at +2 or under on the swing arm for off road, unless it's just wide open trails. Over that, and it starts having trouble turning and hooking up in the tight technical trails and woods. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

2gu, if I'm not mistaken.... and the piston on the left appears to be a lighter higher rpm piston. But do agree, need to push one pun into both pistons and check if the tops are the same height. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Probably bad grounding.they can read good unplugged, but drop off when loaded. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Lol, still getting used to taptalk Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Don't even know what kind of tach it is, lol. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Try powering it off of a 9volt battery. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Sounds like you got it right. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

K, a lot of misinformation and assumptions, many of which were eventually corrected.... However, an engine does not automatically run better or make more power when it's cold. It is in fact the opposite. You can tune it to do so, but that is a different story. Burn rate slows, so yoi end up with incomplete combustion. This is not the same thing as colder air, which is more dense, and at times also has higher nitrogen saturation, which is actually a key player in expansion. A thermostat never helps it cool. Restriction does help, which is why, at the track, you run either a gutted thermostat, restrictor, or set flow dc pump to keep the flow rate down enough. The thermostatic system operates in 3 modes: 1 restricted bypass to not only heat soak (and warm the driver) but also to load the engine to create heat faster. 2. Using the radiator as a thermal mass where the engine is kept at the set temp (still building heat and sipping off the radiator mass till it reaches mean temperature ) 3. Full circulation and active cooling. This is the optimum temperature in the range of 5 over thermostat to 20 higher, give or take.... And now back to the banshee. I, too have wondered about a thermostat, but only because I've ridden 10 below, and it had a he'll of a time getting warmed up after getting to the spot. As for reverse flow, I wouldn't call it as simple as moving hoses around, space is a little tight, so you might have trouble getting it routed well without kinks or rubbing/interfering. One major point to concider is the fan plate that shoots coolant down into the cylinders as it enters. Does this with a high pressure redirection and inertia, so reverse flowing will loose that inertia, and you may end up with much hotter zones around the cylinders, as well as cooler. I would be interested in seeing this feature plugged in to the model, and run both ways. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

If you are assembling your clutch, then your carbs are not beyond your skill level. Most likely, you'll just need new float needles, but you will learn that that mystery "can of worms" is more like 3 worms than a full can. Tearing them down and cleaning them is routine maintenance. When you do, you can also keep an eye on the rubber for splits and delamination, know your jet sizes and adjustments, and prevent a lot of issues on the trail, which is not where you want to learn to clean the carbs... but should be comfortable doing it out in the middle of nowhere. The reason you only tear down one at a time, is because there is one choke for both carbs. Because of that, there is only one choke jet, and only one fuel bowl is drilled out to feed the choke circuit, and it can be put on the wrong carb. It sounds a lot like you just haven't cleaned the carbs. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

you can use the flap of the box the sparkplug came in to set the gap. check on both sides of the flywheel to make sure it's square.

what did you set the pickup gap to on the flywheel? whatdo the plugs look like?