AKheathen

wow, nvr seen one so perfectly stock

it must be hand forged, filed, and plated 20 times, just in case you scratch it............alot

hell yah, don't stop :beer: i mainly started this post because i'm seein alo of "hard to start" and jetting issues, etc. on bikes that ran great untill recently. i had already winterized, but someone having problems that showed up in leu of recent temp dropps can get ideas. timing, jetting, intake, exhaust, plugs, oils, etc. so hell yah, suit up, keep riddin till the snow gets to deep, and and keep the tuning info comming :thumbsup:

uuumm..................huh? ur talkin pods right? just put a ziplock and rubber band around them when you wash. doesent have to be water tight, just keep from spraying directly on them. if you really want, you can go to the plumbing sec. at hardware store, and they have rubber pipe caps that deffinately might fit. :thumbsup:

oh yah, at 140, i'd bet you're trying to get it to hook up better, but, did you try any other options? before my banshee, i was riddin my blaster and ended up on my ass too much and became way too familiar with my front bumper every time i tried to climb a hill. it had no problem hooking up, but after i got beat out by a sportsman, i decided that i need a banshee :biggrin: i guess what i'm gettin at is that if you're riddin trail/hill, you might not wanna move the wheels any further foreward, but, shortening the arm could allow you to moove the pivot point higher providing stability and traction. first, might i suggest mooving the lower shock mount up and forwarda little to see how that does? :shrug: just a thought

does it vibrate at idle? did you sync the carbs? you'd be supprized what shows up when you tery to sync them. maybey a prob withn the cables when you replaced the reeds

how much do you weigh? cuttin it will change the geometry, hence giving the shock more leverage. it'll be stiffer, so you may have to shorten the shock arm about an inch too. for strength, i don't like strait butt joints, but that's just my pref. i would make the cut, then cut 2" out or the side of one half, and an inch from the top and bottom of the other side and overlap

are your carbs synced, dots and idle screws? choke tube/o-ring good? what's your compression?

stupid thing won't let me mod post, so here

to make it easier, for night/ day changes, you can jet one size rich for day, and moove the needle and put the air box back on for night if you got it

did you rejet after new cdi?

i'd like to know what everyone does to accomidate the cold, what problems you have, and what you do to hook up in the snow

where's the handlebars?

even with the anti-gell additive, it'l still gell around15-20 below, and the hot sticks barely keep up under 35 below. deisel is after all. an oil. and i've seen oil turn to tar that you can ball up and throw at people at work (red dog mine-above the arctic circle) but i don't think anyone is gonna pull thier bike out of storage below 0, and i personally hate corrosion that could happen if your out for a season. mine wasn't winterized before i baught it, and i wish it was

that's why i said andtank i'm sure it wouldn't effect it much other than idle, but if it could push over 12 inches i don't remember my shee having a fuel pump, but then again, the gravity 2000 fuel pump is kinda hard to see

woah, let's start wit the screws on the side of the carbs. they are the idle screws that the slides rest on. turning them in raises the slides, out lowers them. the air screws should be at 1.5 turns out. did you use the slides that came with the new carbs? the middle knotch should be a good place to start for the needles. move clip up to lean and down to richen. unscrew the choke and pull the plunger out to check the o-ring. i'm assuming that when you said the tors removal kit installed, that the cables go directly to the slides and don't still have the idle screws on the top cable transfers right? and please no more starting fluid- a 2 stroke should fire off as soon as it gets a little fuel. i hope you were'nt spraying through your filter. starting fluid is bad enough without throwing some dirt in the mix :shoothead: you have good compression when you kick it? also, you can torch your plugs witha propane torch untill they glow red and let them cool naturally, but let them cool naturally and check for cracks when your'e done.

if it gets cold enough to gell, the gas station runs different fuel in the winter that won't gell

sorry dude, i get a little overzealous when it comes to L7's. they were my apexual forte' i was never into advertising, but i did manage to find some old pics from about 7 years ago. it was a little rough to say the least, but just to test the box before body drop and c-knotch

moove your needle clips down one knotch, new plugs, and switch to 40:1 just did mine last night. 2 knotches for me, but i ride below 0 f

yes, fog cylinders. and the parts store sells storage plugs that you put in your spark plug holes to prevent rust. if you want, you can put deisel fuel in your carb bowls to prevent corrosion too, just remember to drain it in the spring

you tore the carb down and gave it a real good cleaning right? was it corrosion that sieved the choke? i bet that there's corrosion/debris elsewhere. wouldn't holding the slide richen it?

dude, he was being facetious, put simply, you don't port the head on a 2-stroke, you port the jugs :shoothead:

glad to hear it helped :thumbsup:

oh yah, i see. :geek: you changed the airflow charicaturistics, so it needs change in jetting. the return pulses running backwards past the jets causes a double enrichment effect. better reeds= weaker backpulse=less fuel. moove your needle clips down2 knotches and see how that does. if it runs good go warm it up, see how it sounds. crisp, loud, and resonating is what you want. zingy, higher pitched=too lean. lower, almost soft and garbled= too rich. get it warmmed up, and if it sounds good up to 3/4 throttle, the pilot circut is right. while its still warmmed up, give it a couple wot shots, and see how that sounds = main jets don't do the wot shots if the pilots still sound lean yah, with your setup, shee wants fuel :woot:

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